Power for the ARB portable fridge AND the Norcold while in transit

Tabaz

Well this was interesting.  I set my Norcold to DC and hooked up my ARB in the TV to one of its 12V outlets before leaving on a 13 hour trip.  Both the ARB and Norcold were pre-cooled for 24 hours before leaving.  Upon arriving at camp 13 hours later, I noticed my trailer battery was down to 57% of full.  The ARB worked flawlessly during the trip (staying at 27*).  The 7 Pin connector on my TV does have the power line to the trailer to charge the battery while in transit.  However, the ARB must have used all the juice that would have gone to the trailer battery.  On the return trip, I turned off the Norcold and only kept the ARB on.  Battery was 59% upon leaving the camp.  Upon returning home 13 hours later, it was 98%.  Moral of the story is that I can't use both the ARB and Norcold while in transit.  Looks like I'll need to get a separate battery for the ARB in order to run both.

4ncar

That’s odd... two trips for me(one for 9 days, the other for 3) where I had the fridge/freezer plugged into the 12v in my TV and had the Norcold running in the tab...no issues...

jkjenn

Tabaz said:

Well this was interesting.  I set my Norcold to DC and hooked up my ARB in the TV to one of its 12V outlets before leaving on a 13 hour trip.  Both the ARB and Norcold were pre-cooled for 24 hours before leaving.  Upon arriving at camp 13 hours later, I noticed my trailer battery was down to 57% of full.  The ARB worked flawlessly during the trip (staying at 27*).  The 7 Pin connector on my TV does have the power line to the trailer to charge the battery while in transit.  However, the ARB must have used all the juice that would have gone to the trailer battery.  On the return trip, I turned off the Norcold and only kept the ARB on.  Battery was 59% upon leaving the camp.  Upon returning home 13 hours later, it was 98%.  Moral of the story is that I can't use both the ARB and Norcold while in transit.  Looks like I'll need to get a separate battery for the ARB in order to run both.

I noticed that it was too much, combined with my phone. This is why I did the whole GZ Yeti and solar on my roofrack set up. When on DC it should be able to run nearly indefenitely. The ARB fridge DC plug is too long. GZ is aware and will send you an adapter at now charge. They are working on changing this in future versions.

Sharon_is_SAM

@Tabaz , what gauge wire is your 7 pin charge line?

Tabaz

Sam - the owner's manual states a 30A fuse for the "Trailer Tow Battery Charge," and 25A for several light relays.

jkjenn

The problem with some newer vehicles (mine) is that they are sophisticated to the point where they reduce juice to the 7 pin connector or auxillary outlets to spare the TV battery. It is likely not a charge wire issue.

Michigan_Mike

Didn't someone do some experimenting with the Norcold by increasing the wire size and wiring it directly to the battery?  I tried running the Norcold in transit in my Silverado and it drew the battery down below 50% but it recovered quickly once I switched back to propane.  

Tabaz

I recall a post where someone mentioned having the headlights on made a difference.

Sharon_is_SAM

Maybe dsatwork did that wiring?

Sharon_is_SAM

@Michigan_Mike, This is the one.

Turbocharging the Norcold N 180.3 3-Way Fridge (beefing up the 12 volt system)

ScottG

Tabaz said:

I recall a post where someone mentioned having the headlights on made a difference.

It seems to depend on the vehicle. Some report that turning on the headlight forces an increase in the vehicle's generator output. Unfortunately, I've found that trick does not work on my 2015 Frontier.

jkjenn

SAM said:

@Michigan_Mike, This is the one.

Turbocharging the Norcold N 180.3 3-Way Fridge (beefing up the 12 volt system)

@SAM that thread addresses increasing cooling in the new fridges. 

Sharon_is_SAM

Isn’t the issue still voltage drop on the way to the Tab battery and frig?

Luckyj

Do you know if your power line in the 7 pins is direclty hook up to the battery of the TV?

and the minimum line should be 10 gauge and heavier. You could be on the same circuit inside TV and power to trailer.  But the ARB is a totaly different monster than the norcold.  ARB is among to most efficient portable frid out there will work on my jeep battery for 4 days, and still start it w/o issues.  I never pre cold mine.  Even when empty, will cool down to near freezing in 1/2 hour.  But has the travel cover and never in the sun. And my jeep wrangler never have the aquarium /solar oven effect of a close car.

And I will do the larger size wire direct fridge to battery connection in the T@G with 10ga.

jkjenn

SAM said:

Isn’t the issue still voltage drop on the way to the Tab battery and frig?

I think in my case and @Tabaz 's cases it is distribution of power from the TV and also the amount of energy the Norcild uses in DC (over 11 amps/hour.) 

Tabaz, also, the ARB fridge 12v plug is a little longer than your average accessory and might not be getting a good charge from your outlet. A lot of folks will run a 12v line, directly the TV battery for the ARB. I could actually do that without too much difficulty as my TV battery is an AGM, located under the front passenger seat.

Luckyj

jkjenn said:

SAM said:

Isn’t the issue still voltage drop on the way to the Tab battery and frig?

I think in my case and @Tabaz 's cases it is distribution of power from the TV and also the amount of energy the Norcild uses in DC (over 11 amps/hour.) 

Tabaz, also, the ARB fridge 12v plug is a little longer than your average accessory and might not be getting a good charge from your outlet. A lot of folks will run a 12v line, directly the TV battery for the ARB. I could actually do that without too much difficulty as my TV battery is an AGM, located under the front passenger seat.

@jkjenn, in the battery direct hook-up, go with at least 10ga, wires.  You will reduce power loss.