How I installed a Lagun table in my 2019 T@B 400

Verna

You’re welcome, @HAWAIIANTAB. 

I forget which year the Lagun table became standard for the T@B 320, but I was one of the first to order the mount for my T@B 320.  There are many who have performed the mod to change from the stock table to the Lagun table.  

I missed the versatility of the Lagun table when I traded for my 400, so I added the Lagun table to the 400 also. 

SWickersham

We just put our T@B400 into winter storage. Just before that I finished putting in the Lagun table. So much more Room! Over winter I will do the slats and those will be ready for our first camping trip to Arizona at the end of February. Can't wait!!!

Michael49

I just purchased a Lagun table to install in my 400!

"(If you attempt this, please check the factory’s plywood box for the placement of everything inside the box so you do not screw into the electrical wiring or any components inside the factory’s box.)"

Does anyone know where to find a photo of what's in this box / location of components? I tried to open it, but it seems to be glued in addition to being screwed and I can't get it open.

Also, how did you screw the box you built to the existing component box?

Michael49

Yea, here's my concern - here is a screenshot from a video of a 400 build - looks like there are wires that run through that container box - how do you screw into that box without hitting wires?.....

Verna

Michael49 said:

Yea, here's my concern - here is a screenshot from a video of a 400 build - looks like there are wires that run through that container box - how do you screw into that box without hitting wires?.....

Very carefully!  I screwed the screws in very slowly, knowing that the wires were loose enough in the clamp to move away from the screw. Mine is a 2019 400 and it only had one bundle of wires near the top of the compartment. You’ll have to open the passenger side plywood cover to see where yours are located. I took numerous iPhone photos so I knew exactly where everything was. 

Michael49

Verna said:

Michael49 said:

Yea, here's my concern - here is a screenshot from a video of a 400 build - looks like there are wires that run through that container box - how do you screw into that box without hitting wires?.....

Very carefully!  I screwed the screws in very slowly, knowing that the wires were loose enough in the clamp to move away from the screw. Mine is a 2019 400 and it only had one bundle of wires near the top of the compartment. You’ll have to open the passenger side plywood cover to see where yours are located. I took numerous iPhone photos so I knew exactly where everything was. 

Thanks - that's very helpful. 

Michael49

One more question Verna. My table might be small enough that I can attach the Lagun table directly to the compartment. I would like to use the enclosed bolts but because I can't easily access the compartment do you think that screws alone will hold it?

Denny16

No, the front ply is only 3/8ths, you need to add a 1-inch block to the front, )Extended to the floor will help) but the bolts into the block, and screw the block to the ply front with at least six screws around the edge.  

The only way to bolt directly to the ply (and I still would use a 3/4 inch backer board on the front) and the poly backing board that comes with the Lagun Mount, but this requires access to the back of the front panel.  Another option, if your power converter is not under the pax side dinette seat, is the mount the Lagun Mount to the front of the seat, access may be available by removing the under seat compartment front liner bit.

The Lagun Mount is a big lever, even with a small table top added, so mount it securely.  I Lomé the idea the OP shows in the opening post on pg 1.
cheers

Michael49

Denny16 said:

No, the front ply is only 3/8ths, you need to add a 1-inch block to the front, )Extended to the floor will help) but the bolts into the block, and screw the block to the ply front with at least six screws around the edge.  

The only way to bolt directly to the ply (and I still would use a 3/4 inch backer board on the front) and the poly backing board that comes with the Lagun Mount, but this requires access to the back of the front panel.  Another option, if your power converter is not under the pax side dinette seat, is the mount the Lagun Mount to the front of the seat, access may be available by removing the under seat compartment front liner bit.

The Lagun Mount is a big lever, even with a small table top added, so mount it securely.  I Lomé the idea the OP shows in the opening post on pg 1.
cheers

Thanks Denny.

That's what concerned me - my table, although not that big, is thick and on the heavy side and I was definitely concerned that the front plywood of the compartment would not be strong enough to support the table. Your solutions make sense.

I did consider mounting the Lagun to the passenger side dinette seat (we have an empty compartment there) but I liked the idea of the center mount better - I just wished I could better access behind there to use a bolt (even with extra support) - I removed the passenger side dinette seat to look in there, but its really tight with the duct work, wiring and heat register - I can't even get my arm back there!

Denny16 said:

...."and screw the block to the ply front with at least six screws around the edge".....

How are you attaching the block to the ply exactly? Thanks

Denny16

With screws along the two vertical edges, use corse thread wood screws about 1/2-inch longer than the wood block, for example, a 1.5 inch screw on a 1-inch block.  You could add some glue for a stronger bond.
cheers

Michael49

Denny16 said:

With screws along the two vertical edges, use corse thread wood screws about 1/2-inch longer than the wood block, for example, a 1.5 inch screw on a 1-inch block.  You could add some glue for a stronger bond.
cheers

Sorry if sound like a complete moron here , but your screwing these in at an angle/diagonal through the block and then into the 400 ply, correct? Or are you attaching the back of the block to the ply and then building it out as you go?

Denny16

The later, you could also build up a two/three layer block, with bolts in it to the Lagun Mount, screw the first 3/4-inch block to the ply with 1 1/4 inch screws, then glue/screw in a second layer, add the Lagun Mount to the top, both layers and the mount are bolted together with the Lagun mount bolts.  Also for a glued up block, see the first post on pg 1.
cheers

Michael49

Built my box! I am no carpenter, so it's not furniture grade and it took me quite some time, but it feels very sturdy.

I used cedar, one of my favorite types of wood. I had a bunch of left over tongue and groove cedar siding from my house so I removed the edges to make 4" boards.

My box is 4". The box allowed me to bolt the lagun mount to the box and then attach the box to the T@B compartment - I used screws just long enough to barely penetrate the plywood.

The most difficult part for me was figuring out how to angle the base so it would rest on the curved floor of the T@B just below the compartment. I used rolled up tinfoil to create the right shape (OK, all of you carpenters are free to laugh now!) and then transferred that to a cardboard template then used that template for the wood.

For the front and back of the box I glued/screwed two pieces of cedar together for double the thickness and hopefully more strength. You can see that in the first photo where the lagun plate is mounted.

I finished the cedar with some mineral oil. It's not perfect, but I'm pretty happy with it.

Now I just need to build a table top!! Thanks for all the help guys - I couldn't have done it without you!



 

Verna

Looks good, @Michael49!  

Check out the top I purchased from Home Depot for $20. It’s in the tool section and it is intended to used on top of one their rolling tool. Sinners. They have two sizes—you want the smaller size. 

Denny16

Looks grand, and very strong...
cheers

Michael49

Verna said:

Looks good, @Michael49!  

Check out the top I purchased from Home Depot for $20. It’s in the tool section and it is intended to used on top of one their rolling tool. Sinners. They have two sizes—you want the smaller size. 

Thanks! I bought this for another project that I never used. I have considered cutting and flattening it for the T@B, but it would be a lot of work .....

Verna

@Michael49 GORGEOUS!  Ambrosia Maple?  

Great idea. I would remove the bark, put a couple of contrasting butterflies at the bottom and top where it looks like it will split, and cut a gentle curve where the broken limb section is. Sand and sand and sand, then some clear Watco, two or three coats of wipe-on poly and you’re set for 5+ years!

Denny16

Try to follow the live edge around to cut off the broken branch bit.  Lovely crotch slab.
cheers

Michael49

Verna said:

@Michael49 GORGEOUS!  Ambrosia Maple?  

Great idea. I would remove the bark, put a couple of contrasting butterflies at the bottom and top where it looks like it will split, and cut a gentle curve where the broken limb section is. Sand and sand and sand, then some clear Watco, two or three coats of wipe-on poly and you’re set for 5+ years!

Only issue is that it's thick and HEAVY. I think I would need to flatten it with a router - something I've never done, but I'm always up for a new project and Youtube is constantly convincing me to try things that I probably shouldn't.  

Denny16

If you have a couple of hand planes, sharpen one with a slight radius to the blade to make a “scrub” plane and use it to take down the high spots quickly, working across and at angles to the grain, follow up with the straight edge smoothing or jack plane, going with the grain.  With a little practice, this is faster than trying to setup a router sled. 
Cheers

Verna

@Michael49 yes, it’s too wide for my planer, so a router sled would be a necessary addition to my tool arsenal!  Once it’s down to 3/4” to 1”, the weight should be manageable. 

Denny16

How long has it been since the crotch was cut?  Looks like it is a little green still.  A slab like this can be rough flattened while it is green, but should be allowed to dry for one year per inch before finishing it up, as the wood will shift while it is drying.
cheers

Michael49

Verna said:

@Michael49 yes, it’s too wide for my planer, so a router sled would be a necessary addition to my tool arsenal!  Once it’s down to 3/4” to 1”, the weight should be manageable. 

Denny16 said:

How long has it been since the crotch was cut?  Looks like it is a little green still.  A slab like this can be rough flattened while it is green, but should be allowed to dry for one year per inch before finishing it up, as the wood will shift while it is drying.
cheers

I did use router to flatten it - long job as the widest bit I had was 5/8" - should have bought a nice 1.5" bit but I'm cheap   

Wood has aged over a year according to the person I bought it from. 

Here's a few photos after shortening, flattening and seemingly endless sanding . So much lighter! Last photo just after applying "Good stuff" wood finish. It was a lot of work but I'm loving it so far.

Take a look at the split at the far end. Its pretty small and will be at the end of the table we use least. How likely do you think it is to propagate? I thought about a making bowtie joint but I've thinned the wood so much here I'm worried about making more cracks in attempting to do this.

falcon1970

@Michael49
I have had good luck with a two-part epoxy for sealing splits and worm holes in wood.  After sealing the two sides of the wood slab will be monolithic--just like it never split.  The stuff is not cheap, though, and what I used to use is apparently no longer available.  I have seen other brands most commonly advertised as a bar sealant.  I prefer a natural wood finish on my projects rather than the high-gloss plastic look so I just pour it into the cracks and holes rather than spreading it across the entire surface.  You will have to seal the underside and edges of your table with masking tape or the epoxy will just run right through--and drip all over your workspace/floor!  The working time, after mixing, is about 5 to 8 minutes so mix only small amounts at a time.  That isn't really a problem though because when you pour the epoxy into the crack its will seem as though you have the crack completely filled.  After a few minutes the epoxy will seep deeper into the crack and into the pores on either side of the crack.  You will need a second pour to get the epoxy flush with the top of the slab.  The epoxy can be sanded or routed after it has cured for 24 hours or so. Sanding will leave the epoxy looking "dull" but with a small crack or hole it is not very noticeable.  When you finish the rest of the surface (with polyurethane or even Tung oil) the epoxy filled areas are even less noticeable.

Verna

@Michael49, if left untreated, the crack will follow the grain into the gray stain. With the many changes in temps and humidities in the 400, this will only hasten the damage. As I said before butterflies or even custom made silhouette’s of a 400, would stabilize the crack and prevent it from extending.  

Denny16

Nice job, but I would also recommend add the bow tie inlay to the split.  Epoxy is good, but it’s bond weakens with heat, allowing the split to continue.
cheere

ChanW

Nice work!

Michael49 said:
........

Wood has aged over a year according to the person I bought it from. 

Here's a few photos after shortening, flattening and seemingly endless sanding . So much lighter! Last photo just after applying "Good stuff" wood finish. It was a lot of work but I'm loving it so far.
.........

Whipster1

Have a link to the hardware used?  Can't find it. TIA

Michael49

Here it is installed......Really happy with it so far.

I ended up using wood glue in the split - I know, it may not work forever, but I think I ran too big of a risk of causing more splits in such a thin piece of wood trying to use a bowtie joint.

I also used another piece of the slab to make a little coffee table. It is attached using the clips from the original 400 table - it can be used with the table in place, or in couch mode (which is really what I made it for).

 Now just need to figure out when to store it when in couch mode.

FYI - my strategy for supporting in couch mode is not nearly as eloquent as what the OP did. I just have 3 cedar siding pieces that I lay across the benches - they are thin so you can't feel them when sitting in couch mode - they slide together when in dinette mode. I also added furniture pads beneath them so they don't damage the benches from rubbing.....

 










Split filled in with Gorilla glue, darkened up nicely....

Verna

Looks great!