Resealing the T@b 320 s

Eji

Hello everyone, IT 's been two years with my camper and I hear everyone telling me to reseal my weather strips. I would like to be proactive and prevent leaking. I did notice while waxing the camper that the union on the plastic cover has dried up a bit. Also, the black rubber strip alone each side looks loose. Not sure if it is normal. If so, can someone advise me on what sealant I should buy ? 

Thank you 
Eddy 

Bayliss

@Eji , if you have not already done so, take a look at the "User Manuals/PDF Files/Video Resources" link to the left of the main page, and click on "Maintenance Notices" in the list provided.  The documents do not indicate what sealant to use, but a good silicone should do the trick.  If sealing an area that abuts fiberglass, you might want to check the label on the silicone tube to see if it specifically says that it adheres to fiberglass.  I recently purchased some "GE All Projects Paintable Silicone," specifically because the label stated that it adheres to fiberglass (not all do, presumably).  (Greg)

mgreen2

i asked NuCamp and this was the response:

”I would recommend using a Polyurethane based caulking for the entire exterior where needed”​

Best Regards

Creed Hostetler 

Product Specialist

Bayliss

Interesting, @mgreen2 .  Since I have never used a polyurethane based caulking, I did a quick Google search to see how they compare.  Found this brief discussion on the comparison.  Makes me wonder if nuCamp uses it because it is a less expensive alternative.  If so, I think it is short-sighted.  I am not knocking it, mainly because I have never used it (and it appears to achieve the intended purpose for its use), but it apparently does not hold up as long as silicone.  It would be interesting to hear from others who have used the polyurethane based caulking.  (Greg)

http://www.pcmservices.com/blog/2013/06/12/building_caulking_silicone_polyurethane_sealant/

Cbusguy

@Bayliss that is interesting,   5 year life expectancy vs 20 for silicone.   hmmmm

ScottG

Alternatives to silicone may have better adhesion properties depending upon where and how it is used.

Regardless, the twenty year rating of silicone applies to the caulking itself, not necessarily to the surfaces it is stuck to. I've had perfectly good beads of silicone fall off my house after a lot less than twenty years. It's a tough world out there in the elements. No matter what you use or where you use it, you should check it on a regular basis and make repairs as needed.

Bayliss

Good points @ScottG .  I too know from experience that silicone (or other caulk) will not last as long as advertized.  Weather, movement, etc., all contribute to its breakdown.

DougWW

We have never gotten 20 year performance out of silicone in our kitchen or bathroom. And silicone doesn't stick to "old silicone" and needs to be removed before replacement. I'm guessing the polyurethane will stick to itself. Big advantage.

VictoriaP

From what I’ve read, silicone also doesn’t adhere as well to fiberglass or aluminum, making it a very bad choice for the T@b, and it’s prone to shrinkage over time which can lead to more leaks. It’s also near impossible to cleanly remove so you can recaulk when that happens.

lkc001

Ditto not using silicone because it doesn't adhere well to fiberglass or aluminum and when you go to re-caulk later you have to get ALL of it off to reapply more silicone because it won't stick to itself or anything that has silicone on it.

Jackie_Dave

We have a 2018 Tab 320s and we have a leak at the outside storage door, so we need to caulk around that.  We also are looking along the top edges of the trailer. There seems to be a gasket of sort that feels like it’s coming loose. Is there a gasket or is it caulking that is coming off?    We are new owners, and this is our first trailer so we have been reading everything we can find regarding caulking, where, how, when and what to use. So much information to sift through. Has anyone used this caulk? It’s pretty expensive so was wondering if it’s worth the cost.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-5200-10-oz-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant-PN06500HC/202258948

VictoriaP

@Jackie_Dave I was reading the Amazon reviews on that one a few days ago, and over and over saw the recommendation to use the 3m 4200 instead of the 5200. The 4200 isn’t quite as impossible to cleanly remove should you ever need to, and doesn’t take as long to cure. Over on the Facebook T@b owners group, Sikaflex was recommended. That comes in black, white, and grey, so it’s easy to match as appropriate to parts of your camper.

Both products can be found online or at marine stores.

Jackie_Dave

@VictoriaP Thank you for the reply. I'll look into the Sikaflex.

lkc001

@Jackie_Dave You should use the Sikaflex for caulking around vents, storage doors if you have any, windows, wheel wells, etc.   When you are talking about a seal or something you have that is "coming off"--are you talking about the rubber seal that starts at the back corner of the unit, goes all the way up over the roof then down to the front corner?  If so, that is not caulking or sealant, it is a gasket and they can come loose.  It is suggested by many here that you get a product "shoe goo" (comes in a tube I think) and put a dab of that every inch or two on the underside of the gasket and press it back into place and let it cure.   Reports are that the shoe goo adheres for a very long time.  As long as you have to do a section of the gasket, might as well do both gaskets along both edges!

Marceline

VictoriaP said:

@Jackie_Dave I was reading the Amazon reviews on that one a few days ago, and over and over saw the recommendation to use the 3m 4200 instead of the 5200. The 4200 isn’t quite as impossible to cleanly remove should you ever need to, and doesn’t take as long to cure. Over on the Facebook T@b owners group, Sikaflex was recommended. That comes in black, white, and grey, so it’s easy to match as appropriate to parts of your camper.

Both products can be found online or at marine stores.

Agree. I wouldn't use 5200 for caulking. It is super tenacious and meant for attaching things that you will never, ever take apart. 

Jackie_Dave

@lkc001 it is in fact a gasket. Thank you for that.  I'll look for the shoe goo tomorrow.  

Thanks @Marceline for the reply.  Good to know the difference in the types of caulks that are out there. 

spkbeam

Just to agree and point out 5200 is super strong and hard to take apart. When younger and in the the boating business it is used to bond/ attach marine hardware above and below water line. Hard to clean up. Acetone was the cleaning solution to use. Had to be careful around certain plastic as acetone somewhat melts it. I think I still have tools with it still on them. Silicone or something similar would be my choice. Last thought, With new products coming out all the time the polyurethane Nucamp uses might be a very mild version.

Jackie_Dave

Just an update. . . The water was not coming in from the outer face plate on the exterior storage door. We caulked that with the Sikaflex 505. Very easy to work with and thank you for the heads up on that product. It looks like the seal on the inside of the door is the problem. Since we are under our 90 day dealer warranty, we have scheduled an appointment and will be taking her in for a gasket replacement and will have them look at the rubber seal that runs along the top of the trim. 

This forum is a wonderful resource. Thanks to all who have contributed.

JohnDanielsCPA

I use Geocel Proflex on my fifth wheel and T@B. 

https://www.geocelusa.com/product/pro-flex-rv-flexible-sealant/

Jackie_Dave

I emailed Sika-US about the Sikaflex 505UV in gray. Here is their response:

Good day Jackie and thanks for your interest in our Sikaflex 505UV gray product. We would recommend that you inquire about our Sikaflex 521UVHV gray product as it is more readily available. The only difference is that the 521 is higher in viscosity, but all of the performance properties are on par with the 505. 
Please find below the contact information to one of our distributors who can help you with this request. 
If you have any additional questions please feel free to contact me.
AP Products
Jenny Miller
Phone-517-278-3885
Email-jenny.miller@approducts.netl-