Rear USB Ports Dead - Replaced

BrianZ

We can't seem to get anything working in either of the two USB ports in rear driver side corner that we were using yesterday.  Tried cell phones & a USB light, but the lamp in that corner works.  Haven't checked fuses yet, as I think other stuff on the same fused circuit works.  Front USB ports above sink work.  No recent rain.
We have solar & ARB frig connected to battery.  T@B frig is on propane & other background devices are working.  Solar is mostly shade, fluctuating between 5-10W.
Any ideas?

Sharon_is_SAM

My understanding is the USB charging ports are not long lived.  Unless you think it is an actual circuit problem...  I am not familiar with the location of the USB in the new S models.

rkj__

I had that problem too.  The problem was with the USB ports module itself.  It died, and needed to be replaced.  There was no issue with fuses, breakers, or circuitry, just the module with the USB ports.

lino

I had to replace mine too recently 
Nucamp sent me one for free even though it was more than a year old

BrianZ

Thanks for all the definitive, though disappointing news.  At least now I know what I might be expecting.  Wondering if the device circuitry has any replaceable components.  Guessing they are all solid state, miniaturized & not serviceable.

db_cooper

Our front USB's died a quick death as well.  Found the same thing online for like $50,  not going to spend it on something so short lived. We're getting by with the dual plug in USB to the 12v port, that does work, right next to them.  Plus it has the voltage readout.

https://www.amazon.com/Jebsens-Charger-Battery-Monitor-Voltage/dp/B01N00I4TM/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=dual+usb+port+with+voltage&qid=1557953090&s=gateway&sr=8-7

Ratkity

It's not just the ones that are selected by Nucamp either. It seems to be all of them. They just don't survive the camper jostling down the road. I can't speak for the class A, B, C's. I've just heard it from not just tiny bumper pull teardrops, but most all, including my tiny toy hauler. *sigh*. I haven't replaced them yet. I just replaced the silly LED taillights. I'm not impressed LED headlamps and taillights in any vehicle either (motorcycle, truck, car, camper...*grumble*grumble*) I think I need a cookie!

BrianZ

Last night we had both cell phones charging in the kitchen ceiling USB ports.  After a while they would flash on every few minutes showing charging info as if they had just been connected, like they were interrupted & reconnected.  When I checked their plugs, both were very hot, almost too hot to touch.  These Samsung phones normally use a "fast charging" mode, which I'm thinking may be too much power for those ports.  Maybe we can set a slower charging mode - not sure if that's an option, but unplugging one & charging only one at a time worked fine.  Samsung would probably say to only use the provided AC adapter.

JEB

I'm really not a fan of wall-mounted USB ports, for these and other reasons.  If you are planning to replace the ports anyway, consider installing a 12V cigarette lighter socket instead.  Generally more amps and more versatile.  Use a USB adapter when you want to charge devices.  Use the socket when you want to run other appliances like a 12V fan or hand-held vacuum.  I replaced the dedicated USB ports on my old RV with a 12V cigarette socket and it was a tremendous improvement.

Luckyj

Imwonder if those chargers are not dying from some kind of overload and bad design.

would be interesting to know what was charging the last time they were working.  Charging one item might be right, charging 2 might be to much and they burn for overworking.

also, some phone or tablets need more amps for same voltage to charge efficiently.  I know that my small samsung galaxie T@B 8 need way more amps to charge than my I pad mini or my I phone, and that my Tablet oem charger will do better than the large block from my I pad to charge the same galaxie T@B.

i am not saying that this is rght and how they should be used, but only trying to exposed what kind of weakness they would have.  Those chargers are transformer and being such, they are also generator of phantom power drain.

BigShowSkipper

I have found every “built in” USB connection unreliable. For whatever reason they all fail sooner rather than later. 

I replace all of them with standard 12V connections and use plug in 12V to USB adapters which are cheap and easy to throw away and replace. 

Definitely not a Ucamp thing. 

Just one persons’s experience. 

Verna

My Tacoma’s USB went out after 4 1/2 years. I haven’t even checked on the replacement cost. I just use a 2 slot plug-in USB adapter for the 12V plug in. It works fine—if not, I buy another one. 

JEB

Verna said:

My Tacoma’s USB went out after 4 1/2 years. I haven’t even checked on the replacement cost. I just use a 2 slot plug-in USB adapter for the 12V plug in. It works fine—if not, I buy another one. 

Probably works better.  The most amps you're likely to get out of the OEM USB slots is about 2.1A, and that's a generous estimate.  You can get more--and fast charging options as well--out of a USB adapter plugged into a standard 12V socket. 

Cbusguy

Guess I just find a generic usb port suspicious,   I always use either a cigarette lighter power adapter or a Anker high current AC charger.    Spent too much on this tech to have it damaged by a random usb charger.

BrianZ

Ok, that makes a lot of sense to use a cigarette to USB adapter, but we have other items plugged into those.  So, for these outlets that have a cig socket with 2 USB slots, is there a replacement that provides two cig sockets?

Verna

@BrianZ, I use a “Y” 12V accessory plug for the brake controller and the GPS.

Do not plug your new ARB into the “Y”—the wire gauge is too small for the ARB’s compressor to work properly. 

Cbusguy

In my canyon i have multiple cigarette lighter outlets on the dash.      But if you don't this could be hardwired to your existing and used for additional devices.   very affordable at 12 bucks gives you 4 outlets but I suspect they are too close together to use all 4 at once

Photomom

JEB said:

I'm really not a fan of wall-mounted USB ports, for these and other reasons.  If you are planning to replace the ports anyway, consider installing a 12V cigarette lighter socket instead.  Generally more amps and more versatile.  Use a USB adapter when you want to charge devices.  Use the socket when you want to run other appliances like a 12V fan or hand-held vacuum.  I replaced the dedicated USB ports on my old RV with a 12V cigarette socket and it was a tremendous improvement.

If I had to replace my USB ports that’s what I’d do. Another advantage is the cigarette style ports use power only when they’re being used. 

Sharon_is_SAM

Back when the factory was allowing customizations, we had them remove the USBs and replace with 12 v sockets.  You can also cut the wires to the USB if you wish to eliminate phantom draw.

BrianZ

Maybe this would work?..

Carviya Motorcycle Dual Car Cigarette Lighter Splitter 12V 24V Charger Power Socket Adapter Plate Panel Mount + 4 Screws 4 Screw Caps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179WI9XG

BrianZ

Or better yet, this one could use the same mounting hardware & just wire it in to replace the USB side..

12V Cigarette Lighter Socket Car Marine Motorcycle ATV RV Lighter Socket Power Outlet Socket Receptacle Waterproof Plug 2Pack By MXRS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QN2ML4X

Update:  This is what I ended up using to replace our dead USB ports (along with a separately purchased Anker 30W USB plugin charger linked below).  I installed one & saved the other for whenever the other USB sockets in kitchen area die.

Luckyj

To each theire own.

perso, I stay away from 12 volts cig usb adapter as much as possible.  Only have them for what was already 12 cig lighter plugs like the ARB fridge.

beside the comment I made up here, the two port usb connector in the foot wall of our T@G is still working after 2 years, but we do not use it much.  I have install an 2 port usb charger in the head board cabinet (our 2017 did not came standard with one) and also install an on-off switch for it.  Still working after 2 years.  Like most of them, the lower port is higher amps than the higher one.

i did install a similar plug in both my TV also with and on off switch, and the oldest one is still workin fine after 4 years.  Charging a samsung tablet (gps maps application) and my I-Phone.  That will be connected for hours at a time, and no hick ups.  The cig lighter adapter did not have the same amps cap at the time I started this set-up.  And that also leave my plugs available for other chargers and gizmo, like charging my dji drone batteries while on the go.

but this is my experience and I know that others had issues.

BrianZ

Now looking at this for the lighter sockets, which has 2.4A at both & even lists our specific phone models..

AUKEY Car Charger, Flush Fit Dual Port 24W/4.8A Output for iPhone Xs/Max/XR/X/8, iPad Pro/Air 2/Mini, Samsung Galaxy Note9/Note8/S9/S9+ and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M6QODH2

Update:  Sorry, but I cannot recommend this.  See my 5-19-19 comments below.

jkjenn

I installed a new dual USB port in the rear cabin area, below the cupboards, made by Blue Seas that supports fast charging. So far, so good. It survived 30 nights and about 15k miles, last year. 

BrianZ

Good to know, @jkjenn.  So far, I didn't find any "built-in" dual USB ports with dual high amp ratings for fast charging, but did find two cig plugin models with dual 2.4A (4.8A total) which can support our phones.  I've read that the fast charging protocol for the Qualcomm Snapdragon 835 processor in our Android phones uses 5/9/12V with variable Amps too.

I found a review on the above posted Aukey ports which said it only worked in a car, but not in a travel trailer.  Then I also found this other one claiming to support our particular phones with the variable charging voltages..

Car Charger (Compatible with Quick Charge Devices), Anker 30W Dual USB Fast Charger, PowerDrive Speed 2 with PowerIQ 2.0 for Galaxy S9/S8/Edge/Note, iPhone XS/Max/XR/X/8, iPad Pro/Air 2/Mini, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H4LH6P7

So, I'm hopeful that one of these chargers with higher amp ratings & the variable voltages to support our phones will provide what we need to avoid burning up USB ports, especially when charging two phones simultaneously, which can be close to 5 amps.  An older standard USB port just isn't designed for that much power.  It is interesting to see the wires coming out of the back of our T@B's dead USB ports - extremely thin gauge, especially compared to those going into the cig lighter port next to it.

BrianZ

Ok, I've got it replaced now, and it was an easy job the way I did it.  Here's the new socket shown with the 30-watt Anker brand listed above, with 3-voltage charging ports that our phones need for up to 2.4 amps each..

Not crazy about the LED lighted sockets, but it's not too bright & can always be unplugged.  Otherwise it's a good solid fit, unlike the Awful Aukey which was too stubby to stay in either socket to make contact without holding it in place.  It also lacked the 3-voltage capability that Samsung's Qualcomm processor uses for fast charging.

I used tap splice connectors (the blue plastic things; 16-18G size) to tap into the main wires using part of the cable that came with the socket & already had push-on blade connectors.  The splice gadget just slips over the source wire & has a hole to insert the connecting wire, then you squeeze the metal blade down with plyers & snap the plastic cover closed - takes about 5 seconds, and no stripping or soldering wires.  I cut and capped off the old skinny USB wires tied around the others.  It is similar to, if not the exact same as this..
3M(TM) Scotchlok(TM) Electrical IDC Connector 560B, Blue, 18–16AWG solid/stranded, 14AWG stranded, 100ct https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BFZ8E

The Anker USB charger ports work well in the new socket & successfully fast charged my phone as indicated in the display with an estimate of 30 mins until fully charged.
I plan to return the Aukey & do NOT recommend it due to its stubby design.

When I started this search I really did not fully appreciate how different USB ports can be, and how some of them are bare bones specs while others are designed with electronics that can substitute for one or more manufacturer's AC adapter charger in terms of the kind of USB power those provide, like little multistage charge controllers, except that these are made for plugin to car 12V cig lighter sockets. In this regard, it seems logical to avoid hard-wired USB ports & use a cig adapter instead, so that they can be easily updated or even instantly switched for newer or different models of phones/devices.  They are also portable for moving from rear to front or in the car.

PS:
The trim plate pops right off if you pry the edges up with something thin & flat.  Then there are 4 small wood screws to remove the mounting plate with the sockets held in place by rings that screw on from the back.  Very easy, but you may want to pull the fuse on the circuit you're working on just to be safe, even if I didn't. 

Luckyj

Sorry to say, but bad move on the guillotine splice connectors.  They have a tendancy to cut some strands in the wires, and also create inside oxidation.  And over time, vibration brake the links in the current.

I know that Nucamp use them all over, but they are not good.  Only quality, is fast in production line.

Used to work for a company that was in comunication equipment for city buses, subway train like New-york city, and trains for public transit, and we were forbiden to use those.  

It is like you would use house slice conector, but in a way, they can be worst.

soldering is the way to go for that type of jonction.

hope this works for you.

BrianZ

@Luckyj, the oldest tap splice connectors I've used in our T@B are close to two years old, and I've never experienced any issues with them or any of the others installed by NüCamp.  I guess time will tell.

Cbusguy

I don't disagree with lucky,   But there is a big difference between a bus that will travel further in a month than most T@B's will travel in their lifetimes.     

melpeter

BrianZ said:

Ok, I've got it replaced now, and it was an easy job the way I did it.  Here's the new socket shown with the 30-watt Anker brand listed above, with 3-voltage charging ports that our phones need for up to 2.4 amps each..

Not crazy about the LED lighted sockets, but it's not too bright & can always be unplugged.  Otherwise it's a good solid fit, unlike the Awful Aukey which was too stubby to stay in either socket to make contact without holding it in place.  It also lacked the 3-voltage capability that Samsung's Qualcomm processor uses for fast charging.

I used tap splice connectors (the blue plastic things; 16-18G size) to tap into the main wires using part of the cable that came with the socket & already had push-on blade connectors.  The splice gadget just slips over the source wire & has a hole to insert the connecting wire, then you squeeze the metal blade down with plyers & snap the plastic cover closed - takes about 5 seconds, and no stripping or soldering wires.  I cut and capped off the old skinny USB wires tied around the others.  It is similar to, if not the exact same as this..
3M(TM) Scotchlok(TM) Electrical IDC Connector 560B, Blue, 18–16AWG solid/stranded, 14AWG stranded, 100ct https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BFZ8E

The Anker USB charger ports work well in the new socket & successfully fast charged my phone as indicated in the display with an estimate of 30 mins until fully charged.
I plan to return the Aukey & do NOT recommend it due to its stubby design.

When I started this search I really did not fully appreciate how different USB ports can be, and how some of them are bare bones specs while others are designed with electronics that can substitute for one or more manufacturer's AC adapter charger in terms of the kind of USB power those provide, like little multistage charge controllers, except that these are made for plugin to car 12V cig lighter sockets. In this regard, it seems logical to avoid hard-wired USB ports & use a cig adapter instead, so that they can be easily updated or even instantly switched for newer or different models of phones/devices.  They are also portable for moving from rear to front or in the car.

PS:
The trim plate pops right off if you pry the edges up with something thin & flat.  Then there are 4 small wood screws to remove the mounting plate with the sockets held in place by rings that screw on from the back.  Very easy, but you may want to pull the fuse on the circuit you're working on just to be safe, even if I didn't. 

Which fuse would that be?

melpeter

Here’s what’s in my Amazon cart, thanks to BrianZ’s helpful post above.