The battery is in the back under the bed on passenger side I believe since the cut off switch is back there in the outdoor compartment. Is there a way to easily (key word “easily”) install an electric jack on a 400 since the electric jack has to connect to the battery?
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https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/1395/power-tongue-jack-cost-less-than-a-buck/p1
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
If it is still of interest to you, I finally found photo of the junction box in the front of the TAB. It is located on front of the crossmember just above the spare tire. Lug 1 and lug 7 should provide power to an electric jack.
@falcon1970, what is the source of the photo that you posted? How confident are you in its accuracy?
Do either of you have any comments/input on the diagram or notations on the junction box wiring diagram posted by @MuttonChops (who may want to provide input as well) in the below conversation thread? The comment at the bottom of that drawing re the brake wiring appears to contradict other information provided on this forum; in particular, @ScottG's comments about the wiring between the battery and the electric brakes.
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/9025/battery-doesnt-seem-to-be-charging-while-driving#latest
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
That is a photo I took when I was changing my taillights to add backup lights. I won't offer a warranty but I'm pretty confident it is accurate for a TAB 400. Of course, with the way nuCamp changes things it might only be accurate for my 400! Wire colors are a notoriously inaccurate way to decode wiring runs. There is simply no standardized system. The only safe way to determine what goes where is to either trace the wires out or to use a multimeter to check the circuits.
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
Figure does not show all the ground wire connections. (Figure was created mainly for my use)
You are correct, for any Current Monitor System to correctly measure the full battery current drain the Shunt must be between the Battery and all loads.
In your comment you have circled the Display part of the Current Monitor System which requires a power source.
The installed Current Shunt/Monitor System is two pieces; a Shunt and a Display, these pieces communicate data by Blue-tooth radio. The Shunt itself is located in the TUB and connected to the Battery Negative Terminal and then to the Junction Box. The Current Monitor Display is located near the front window and powered by a USB outlet. Detailed wiring of the system in next image.
The Display was placed after the +12VDC Cut-Off Switch so the Display would not draw current when not in use. Specifically when the TaB is in storage and the small Solar Panel is maintaining the Battery. Only loads on Battery being the Solar Controller (at night) and Shunt (sensor circuit and blue-tooth).
Hope all that helped to clarify.
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
Brad
2022 Black Series HQ19 aka "Cricket"
2021 F-250 Tremor with PSD aka "Big Blue"
Concord, NC
Brad
2022 Black Series HQ19 aka "Cricket"
2021 F-250 Tremor with PSD aka "Big Blue"
Concord, NC