Variable Speed (PWM) Ceiling Fan Mod == 10 Bucks

pthomas745 · September 2018

@rajamar , thanks, this is perfect for me. And, I should have guessed spade connectors by myself!

pthomas745 · September 2018

@rajamar I wired this up this morning and the fan works, but only in one direction. Here is where I am:

At the rocker switch, the white wire is detached and goes to the Motor - terminal.

Where would I be messing up the reversing switch?

A picture of your rocker/reversal switch would be useful.

And, thanks again!

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/22/h56d2vhtir52.jpg

dhauf · September 2018

pthomas745 said:

@rajamar I wired this up this morning and the fan works, but only in one direction. Here is where I am:

At the rocker switch, the white wire is detached and goes to the Motor - terminal.

Where would I be messing up the reversing switch?

A picture of your rocker/reversal switch would be useful.

And, thanks again!

You want to leave the wires(White and the Red) hooked up the way they were to the rocker switch and the black wires going to the to the fan motor get hooked up the Motor portion of the PWM board. Next remove the old speed control and use those wires for the + and - power to the PWM board. I need to put my PWM board in my new camper. I will try and make a video or perhaps a better diagram with pictures for you.

rajamar · September 2018

pthomas745 said:

@rajamar I wired this up this morning and the fan works, but only in one direction. Here is where I am:

At the rocker switch, the white wire is detached and goes to the Motor - terminal.

Where would I be messing up the reversing switch?

A picture of your rocker/reversal switch would be useful.

And, thanks again!

You're almost there. Here's what you need to do:
1) Reattach white wire from motor to terminal next to red.
2) Attach the new white wire (currently connected to white from motor) to the terminal next to black wire. The other end of the new white should go to PWM Motor - terminal
3) Make sure the ground/chassis white (next to black wire hanging from ceiling in your photo) goes to PWM Power - terminal.
4) Regarding black power wires - make connections as notated in my middle picture above.

Also note that I made a correction to the first picture notation - a white goes from rocker next to black to PWM Motor -

rajamar · September 2018

dhauf said:

pthomas745 said:

@rajamar I wired this up this morning and the fan works, but only in one direction. Here...

... Next remove the old speed control and use those wires for the + and - power to the PWM board. ...

Only black power + wires are attached to the stock speed control - one goes to PWM Motor + and the other to PWM Power + . See my middle picture above.

pthomas745 · September 2018

@rajamar thanks, that did work. At least until I was trying to wire it up and touched a bare wire to the red hot wire and blew out the fan's fuse!

After staring at those wires for a couple of days I knew the switch was the clue. I'll take some nicer photos of the wiring after I find the fuse and the proper spade connector I need. Thanks very much for your help. And I did learn how to test a fuse with my multimeter. Every little skill helps.

rajamar · September 2018

pthomas745 said:

@rajamar thanks, that did work. At least until I was trying to wire it up and touched a bare wire to the red hot wire and blew out the fan's fuse!

After staring at those wires for a couple of days I knew the switch was the clue. I'll take some nicer photos of the wiring after I find the fuse and the proper spade connector I need. Thanks very much for your help. And I did learn how to test a fuse with my multimeter. Every little skill helps.

I bet you remember to turn your battery off if you have a switch or pull the main battery fuse the next time you do any electrical work!

Glad it all worked out OK.

pthomas745 · September 2018

I don't need to turn it off "this" time, I said. And it was only one teeny tiny spark.

Spectre9 · September 2018

This is a great looking mod and exploring adding to my new trailer.

I wanted to share that Rio Rand (appearing in prior pictures) has a PWM with both speed and a reversing switch. Not sure if the wiring is compatible with existing reversing switch though since I haven’t removed my fan - thought maybe someone who has done mod could take a look.

this PWM is only 3A max with 4A overcurrent (short circuit) protection. So possibly less max speed than stock. Maybe they have another with higher amps.

RioRand Upgraded Adjustable DC Motor Speed PWM Controller 10V 12V 24V 30V Reversing Switch 120W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTZD9YI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_So9OBbYFJYHSQ

MuttonChops · September 2018

Spectre9 said:

. . . Rio Rand (appearing in prior pictures) has a PWM with both speed and a reversing switch. Not sure if the wiring is compatible with existing reversing switch though since I haven’t removed my fan

For myself the PWM with reversing switch would be a no go for two reasons.

First, Keep It Simple rule. Using the FantasticFan switch requires less effort plus you don't need a built-in switch with one mounted for you already.

Second, Space. The PWM Reversing PCB Board is larger to allow room for the four additional wire terminals and PCB mounting space is already very tight.

rajamar · September 2018

MuttonChops said:

Spectre9 said:

. . . Rio Rand (appearing in prior pictures) has a PWM with both speed and a reversing switch. Not sure if the wiring is compatible with existing reversing switch though since I haven’t removed my fan

For myself the PWM with reversing switch would be a no go for two reasons.

First, Keep It Simple rule. Using the FantasticFan switch requires less effort plus you don't need a built-in switch with one mounted for you already.

Second, Space. The PWM Reversing PCB Board is larger to allow room for the four additional wire terminals and PCB mounting space is already very tight.

+1 on both points above. There simply isn't enough room for a bigger board.

dhauf · September 2018

Ok so I just re-installed my PWM module in my new camper. So here are the pictures with the connections, hopefully this can help to answer more question. Please feel free to ask more questions if needed. I tried to make this as simple as possible. One thing I forgot to mention is use a bit of hot glue to secure your board in place.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/98/59pp1al0t2m1.jpg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/q3/jo65hreeslfd.jpg

pthomas745 · September 2018

@dhauf and @rajamar I made my fan work this morning after installing a new fuse and with your descriptions and pictures. I'm working on a text version of all the wiring but I'll wait til morning so I can eyeball everything again. Thanks very much for the help. Of course, now I have to stuff everything back in....

dhauf · September 2018

pthomas745 said:

@dhauf and @rajamar I made my fan work this morning after installing a new fuse and with your descriptions and pictures. I'm working on a text version of all the wiring but I'll wait til morning so I can eyeball everything again. Thanks very much for the help. Of course, now I have to stuff everything back in....

Nice and great job! That’s always the challenge after the modification, stuffing the wires back in place and screwing it all back in.

pthomas745 · September 2018

Done! At least, buttoned up and working. I'm not electrically inclined, but the instructions here were enough to get me started, and with minor "mishaps" I got it done.

I blew two 10 Amp fuses before I really paid attention to the "insulate" or "add electrical tape" to the top of the speed switch.

Everything went back together fairly easily. Except for the "lock" mechanism. Unless it magically falls into the appropriate hole, how is that supposed to be re-connected? I'll need to go back in and silicone down the PWM board, and I'll look again. Maybe another set of hands to guide the lock post into the proper hole?

Anyway, thanks to everyone. I'll edit this later with some more pictures and descriptions.

MuttonChops · September 2018

pthomas745 said:

. . . went back together fairly easily. Except for the "lock" mechanism. Unless it magically falls into the appropriate hole, how is that supposed to be re-connected?

Use a ladder so you can reach the Fan from the top outside, Align the "lock mechanism" in the hole, place a brick (or other heavy object) on top of the lock, once you have the screw started you can remove the brick.

At least that is what worked for me.

dhauf · September 2018

MuttonChops said:

pthomas745 said:

. . . went back together fairly easily. Except for the "lock" mechanism. Unless it magically falls into the appropriate hole, how is that supposed to be re-connected?

Use a ladder so you can reach the Fan from the top outside, Align the "lock mechanism" in the hole, place a brick (or other heavy object) on top of the lock, once you have the screw started you can remove the brick.

At least that is what worked for me.

Actually I found it to be easier to take the screen off and then take the screw out of the fan blade and pull it off. Install the trim back in place then you can reach up and hold the locking mechanism down and screw it in. Pop the fan blade back in and pop the screen back on and done.

rajamar · September 2018

pthomas745 said:
...
Everything went back together fairly easily. Except for the "lock" mechanism. Unless it magically falls into the appropriate hole, how is that supposed to be re-connected? I'll need to go back in and silicone down the PWM board, and I'll look again. Maybe another set of hands to guide the lock post into the proper hole?

Yeah - that's a real pain. When I find first removed the cover just to take a look and before I had all parts, I must have spent 15 minutes trying to get that shaft to line up with the hole.

Then, after giving it some thought and rounding up the parts to do the install, when it was time to put that lock knob back on I used an icepick-like probe to stick into the shaft and guide it into the housing hole as I pushed it up into place. (A stiff wire would work too.) Then with a 1\4" or so of the shaft sticking down I carefully and gently screwed the knob on (with a magnetic screwdriver holding the screw with the knob in place). Still a bit tricky, but much faster than blindly hoping the shaft was going to hit the hole by trial and (many) error(s).

rajamar · September 2018

dhauf said:

MuttonChops said:

pthomas745 said:

. . . went back together fairly easily. Except for the "lock" mechanism. Unless it magically falls into the appropriate hole, how is that supposed to be re-connected?

Use a ladder so you can reach the Fan from the top outside, Align the "lock mechanism" in the hole, place a brick (or other heavy object) on top of the lock, once you have the screw started you can remove the brick.

At least that is what worked for me.

Actually I found it to be easier to take the screen off and then take the screw out of the fan blade and pull it off. Install the trim back in place then you can reach up and hold the locking mechanism down and screw it in. Pop the fane blade back in and pop the screen back on and done.

Great solution - I focused on getting the shaft to align with the hole and overlooked the further disassembly option.

atlasb · June 2019

I know this thread has been around for awhile, but I ordered the PWM from Amazon in an above link. Got it in yesterday and installed this morning. After completing the install and putting everything back together it worked first time. Think it is definitely going to be an improvement over the original 3 speed fan. Thanks for all the install info and pics from everyone. Another great mod from the forum.

Jan · June 2019

Does anyone know if the older model fan with the square corners also have sufficient space to accommodate the PVM?

pthomas745 · June 2019

You might want to get up there and measure and take some pictures of the space. On the "Rio Rand" controller from Amazon, I trimmed some of the extra circuit board off to make a better fit.

This is the one I installed. Roughly 2.3 inches square. The measurements are listed in one of the pictures.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F839VNQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

dutsmiller · March 2020

Just wanted to share that I followed dhauf's instructions above (https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/103063/#Comment_103063) and seemed to work great. I liked this method as I was able to keep the inline fuse and avoid drilling any additional holes. I put a multimeter on the feed and saw no amperage draw when the fan was not spinning, so using the direction toggle seems like a good enough on/off switch. I'd still rather have a Maxxair, but happy with the results for the low cost.

MuttonChops · March 2020

dutsmiller said:

. . . still rather have a Maxxair, but happy with the results for the low cost.

Glad you found this modification useful.
I also would rather have a Maxxair, but this mod has worked so well the Maxxair funds keep getting used by other T@B projects

Tundra57 · March 2020

I did this mod to my 2015 tab from the previous post. I kept the reversing switch. I also added a small rocker switch to the AC input of the PWM controller, else it's always powered. The reversing fan switch only turns off the PWM output. I'm sure consumption is low but I preferred to make sure. Also fitted @Verna outside fan cover to allow running in the rain with lid raised.

dutsmiller · March 2020

@Tundra57 I put a multimeter on the feed to the controller when the fan wasn't moving and it registered 0 amps. I too thought it would be a constant drain, but unless I was using the multimeter incorrectly (when i started up the fan it began to register a draw), it seems like it's imperceptible. If anyone has tested this and I am incorrect, please let me know as I'd be inclined to add an on/off switch as well.

Tundra57 · March 2020

@dutsmiller I just don't like an off switch not removing power to the device. If it decided to fail you can't isolate it. Just me being careful. I just used a flat lighted auto switch which mounts with a drilled hole.

rajamar · March 2020

Yes, I'm a "pants and suspenders" guy and used that Hillman rotary switch that I picked up at Lowe's and only needed a 3\8" hole (photo on page 2 above}.

dutsmiller · March 2020

Valid points. The best I could do is remove the fuse to cut the power if something broke.

Marceline · June 2020

I have decided to attempt this modification. My trailer is about an hour from my home and half an hour from the closest hardware store so I'm trying to put together a list of everything that I'm going to need (parts and tools). I want to install the variable speed control + on off switch (to prevent parasitic draw).

So far I have:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F839VNQ/?coliid=I2RXVUC9RA71GZ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CCSLA4S/?coliid=I226K2Q6CG0SAG&colid=77LZJK08QRLQ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Wire (gauge? colors? terminals?)

Any special tools besides screwdrivers & pliers? A Dremel? Hot glue gun?

Thanks for your help.

@MuttonChops
@BrianZ
@rajamar
@Dalehelman
@pthomas745

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Variable Speed (PWM) Ceiling Fan Mod == 10 Bucks

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