Furnace & Stove Stopped working 2010 T@b Q — SOLVED!

Tablet · February 2020

Greetings~

We recently bought a 2010 T@b TQ, and we live in SW Wisconsin. Over the last couple months I have been going over all the systems to make sure everything is ready for Spring. When I first tested the furnace and the cooktop they worked great, just a month or so ago. Now neither one will work. My tank was registering in the yellow zone, but it would run other appliances so I assumed it was ok, but just to be sure I bought a new full tank. Still nothing. I have read that occasionally tanks can have moisture in them that can cause a line or a regulator to freeze up. It has been mighty cold here. I pulled the trailer out of storage and put it in the sun yesterday where it was 45-50. Still nothing. I can pull it into a heated shop space which I may do, but somehow I'm guessing it's something else. Bad regulator? Any advice please?

Thanks,

Peter.

(Edited to add SOLVED To title to help with searching — Verna T@B Admin)

Denny16 · February 2020

If you are not experienced with propane systems, you should consult a RV repair center, where it can be properly sorted. Propane is something you do not want to get wrong, or you could cause a fire or explosion.
Cheers

Mouseketab · February 2020

There is a line between the tank and the regulator that often goes bad and has to be replaced. I have had to replace mine twice over the years. (2007 Clamshell)

Tablet · February 2020

Denny16 said:

If you are not experienced with propane systems, you should consult a RV repair center, where it can be properly sorted. Propane is something you do not want to get wrong, or you could cause a fire or explosion.
Cheers

I work on a farm, and when things break I fix them, and if I don't know how, I find out. I certainly would not want to be foolish when it comes to things this dangerous, and I know where I draw the line with what I know and what I don't in terms of safety. If I need a new regulator I can do that, and if I have a bad line I can replace that. If it's beyond that I will likely take it to an rv repair shop.

Tablet · February 2020

Mouseketab said:

There is a line between the tank and the regulator that often goes bad and has to be replaced. I have had to replace mine twice over the years. (2007 Clamshell)

This line in our tab looks fine, it looks new.

Tablet · February 2020

I find now that if I wait a while, I can get the stove to light for 30 seconds or so, then it goes out, which says to me bad reg. I'm not sure if the valves that people have discussed elsewhere are getting activated by me disconnecting the tank and reconnecting it or not.

Denny16 · February 2020

Yes, changing out a regulator is easy enough. My thought for a professional repairman was they have test equipment to check the gas pressure on both sides, and on the low pressure side, and can even detect minor leaks. I also live in a rural area, and I have a propane system at my home, and it is inspected annually by a certified tech, including checking for leaks. When I got my lightly used TaB 400, I had it inspected by a RV technician, including the propane system. Good luck with your repair.
cheers

Dalehelman · February 2020

If you open the tank valve to fast it senses a possible leak and shuts itself off. Try closing the valve and then open it slowly.

Cbusguy · February 2020

Could be the safety valve on the propane tank. Turn the tank off, release any pressure in the line, reconnect the tank, Make sure all the propane appliances are off.......slowly open the tank valve. If you open the valve too quickly it will act like a catastrophic leak.

Tablet · February 2020

As an aside, I ended up up on a Sprinter Van site last night, where they discussed the kind of regulator that was put in Sprinter campers for a time, a Fairfield GR-9959, which Sprinter had found to frequently be defective, primarily not allowing enough flow for what the appliances needed to see. This happens to be what is in my rig, so early T@bs may often have these. Sprinter suggested using a Marshall MEGR-298 which I have just ordered.

Denny16 · February 2020

Good to know, glad you got it sorted.
cheers

Tampakayaker · February 2020

Cbusguy said:

Could be the safety valve on the propane tank. Turn the tank off, release any pressure in the line, reconnect the tank, Make sure all the propane appliances are off.......slowly open the tank valve. If you open the valve too quickly it will act like a catastrophic leak.

Also disconnect the line after turning off the tank, this will make sure everything gets reset before trying it. Like Cbusguy said make sure all the appliances are off when opening the tank valve. I had my grill turned on 1 time when I opened my tank and my the pressure/flame was just about non-existant.

Tablet · February 2020

Well I replaced the regulator, and still nothing. I disconnected the main hookup, disconnected the gauge, and hooked it all back up, turned on the pressure very slowly, and nothing. I think it may be time to take it to an rv repair shop unless anyone has any other ideas? Spending $ to have this fixed sounds pretty good right now! I am surprised at how fast the gauge jumps even when I turn the valve very very slowly. Are we talking about the safety valve on the tank itself, or is there some kind of safety valve in the trailer system, other than the propane detector by the furnace?

Dalehelman · February 2020

I would try a different propane tank.

Denny16 · February 2020

No other safety valve that I know of, just the one built into the tank. Trying a different tank as Dalehelman suggested is a good idea.
cheers

rfuss928 · February 2020

Tablet
If an add on gauge is showing pressure, then the check valve in the tank is not closed.
When you open the stove valve(s), does the pressure stay in the green? If yes, It is not a problem with the tank delivering fuel. BTW - You do know the stove valves have to be turned on, pushed in and held in until the thermocouple gets hot?
I had an OPD valve stick closed on a full spare tank. After removing the tank from the tub and jostling it around a bit, it began working.
It does take a while for air to clear from the lines after a tank change. I may take a full minute or two for gas to reach the stove burners. The furnace may need to be reset after failing to start. It will have a red flashing light on the control circuit board under the front cover and a small push button for "reset".
It really seems you have tried all the common fixes. I'm just following along to see a resolution.
Good luck,
Bob

Tablet · February 2020

Thanks Bob. Maybe it's because my model is 2010, but all I see is breaker box with 2 switches and 4-5 fuses, no red flashing light or push button unless I'm in the wrong place. I do know about how the stove burners work, and I did try swapping tanks, and I did try to hold the stove valve open for a solid minute, maybe I need to do it longer. I tried the furnace again, and the fan comes on, I hear a couple clicks, like it's trying to light but with no fuel it won't, after a minute or so it shuts off (the fan).

Marceline · February 2020

Tablet said:

Thanks Bob. Maybe it's because my model is 2010, but all I see is breaker box with 2 switches and 4-5 fuses, no red flashing light or push button unless I'm in the wrong place. I do know about how the stove burners work, and I did try swapping tanks, and I did try to hold the stove valve open for a solid minute, maybe I need to do it longer. I tried the furnace again, and the fan comes on, I hear a couple clicks, like it's trying to light but with no fuel it won't, after a minute or so it shuts off (the fan).

On my Atwood furnace I had to remove the grill from the front of furnace itself to reset a switch.
I'm sorry but it was a long time ago and I can't tell you exactly what to look for.
Maybe this manual will help: http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/hflamefurn04.pdf

But if the stove isn't working either then I doubt that this will be your solution.

Tablet · February 2020

Ok I think I may know what you mean, or at least I know where the grill is to look. Yup I think you are right that this is not my issue, or if it is, it's not the only issue. I know it will turn out to be some simple thing but I think I'm at the end of my willingness to chase it. It's just so odd that a few weeks ago everything was working fine. That's the funny thing about things failing, one moment they work, the next they don't! Everything in this trailer looks brand new, but of course that has nothing to do with any kind of internal failure of some kind due to who knows what. I'll find out soon and post what I find.

Mouseketab · February 2020

When you replaced the regulator, did you replace this hose?

https://www.etrailer.com/Propane/MB-Sturgis/100575-12-MBS.html

That is what caused my stove not to work. Once I replaced that hose, all worked again.

Tablet · February 2020

No I didn't, but I have been eyeing that hose.... for $12 it seems like a no brainer. Did the valve end get clogged on yours?

Tablet · February 2020

Bingo. That little sucker was clogged. I shoulda checked that FIRST! I had a spare that was a bit of an odd replacement from my blacksmithing forge, but it fit and let me know that this was the issue. We love our fire don't we. Thanks for sleuthing with me! Happy camping.....

ChanW · February 2020

Love it when it ends with Bingo...

ScottG · February 2020

Glad you got it fixed, @Tablet --and good call, @Mouseketab!

In addition to clogging, that hose also has propensity for leaking. I had to replace mine last season. Good thing to keep an eye on when doing routine inspections and maintenance.

Mouseketab · February 2020

Tablet said:

No I didn't, but I have been eyeing that hose.... for $12 it seems like a no brainer. Did the valve end get clogged on yours?

I guess it did clog, but really have no idea. The stove wasn't working, folks on the old Dutchmen forum said that was a likely problem. Went and bought a new hose, and as you said, BINGO, it worked again.

Cbusguy · March 2020

Propane hose clogged? that is a new one on me.

Tablet · March 2020

I noticed an oily looking dampness coming out of the valve end which made me suspicious.... There must be some mechanism inside that end that while being a valve to close off the system when disconnected also has a knack for catching any impurities, or reidue of propane that has remained liquid, and maybe over time it gums up or something like that?

HildaPine · June 2020

Any guidance on what hose to order to replace existing on 2009 DM T@B? I suspect it is clogged as I have tried everything else folks have outlined on the forums. Propane tank has gas. Stove won't light. Thanks.

Mouseketab · June 2020

HildaPine said:

Any guidance on what hose to order to replace existing on 2009 DM T@B? I suspect it is clogged as I have tried everything else folks have outlined on the forums. Propane tank has gas. Stove won't light. Thanks.

I took my old one off, went to a local RV dealer with the old hose in hand, and they handed me the correct one.

Bayliss · June 2020

Since it is relevant to this discussion, here is a very recent discussion about oil in liquid propane:

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/139214#Comment_139214

Furnace & Stove Stopped working 2010 T@b Q — SOLVED!

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