First time for me that the Water Pump won't shut-off after de-winterizing . . . darn thing has run for hours. For awhile it seemed to be building pressure but after five+ hours it won't stop.
I've tried all the '
tricks' I can think of so will deal with it later. Maybe driving down the road will fix-it
as I'm going on a 10-day adventure
even if I have to use a bucket to flush the toilet . . .
just like winter camping . . .
While an air-leak on the fresh water tank side of the pump is a likely cause - - - I'm Not Dealing With It Now. OKAY ?
'18 320 S, pitched axle, 3020HE; PNW based
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
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And since I was busy with other tasks I just like it run.
No leaks that I know of . . . thought I purged all the air with City Water, maybe I didn't get all the air out.
In the past air-pockets in the Alde hot water tank have been an issue . . . could still be so now.
Real World my post was far, far more a RANT than a request for help.
I really dislike plumbing; house, trailer, and even my former boats.
Electricity I can handle but seem to lack 'the touch' for darn plumbing.
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
2020 nuCamp T@B 320S * Jeep Wrangler
Cheers
There is definitely something wrong but no way you would have known that if it never primed quickly like it's supposed to in the first place. The pump never runs more than 2-3 minutes before shutting off on all three of my T@bs. If it ran longer I knew something was not right, not enough water in FW tank to prime, air lock, open valve or faucet, or now, wrong settings on Nautilis.
However, my boats acted about the same.
[ 2 ] Pump Has Stopped Running = WORKING correctly = Not So Much 'Fixed' =
After about 200-miles of driving the pump only needed a minute or so to pressurize and
shut-off. Again that makes me think air bubble/pocket that got moved to some spot that
the pump could easily compress.
I'll be on 'city water' for the next few days then 5-days of dry-camping.
Pump worked correctly while not connected to any city water.
I.E. at rest stop after 200 miles (at 100 miles it stilljus t ran and ran)
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
Sm@ll World: 2021 320S Boondock, 6V Pb-acid
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So we emptied the system (as part of a planned flush). Next we refilled but absent-mindedly left the hot water low-point drain open with this fresh water fill. The pump still didn't behave right. We removed and inspected the water strainer at the pump but realized the drain valve was still left open. We closed it. In the process of reinstalling the strainer it filled with water. This may have had the effect of priming the pump and then when the pump was again turned on it sounded normal with a stronger effort. Right after the 2 minute mark the pump shut off. We tested all the spigots and pressure and proper water flow returned.
Notes: The drain values were closed on the first attempt to use the pump after city water pressurization. The second attempt was done without a second city water pressurization. We had this happen last year but it resolved itself. We use the blow-out winterization method. Finally a bucket was placed under the connection to the strainer--so we didn't make another bonehead move by flooding our CS's galley.
2018 TAB 320 Boondock (previous)
Odessa, Fl.
Probably not your issue but I thought I'd mention it.
2021 Toyota RAV4 TRD Off Road
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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