Alde reliability

Sharon_is_SAM · February 2018

@laetulos If you have the 320 S model, try propping open the rear shelf. Make sure you are not occluding the floor vents which are essential to warming and circulating the warmed air.

laetulos · February 2018

Really appreciate the feedback!

@xbooooo do you leave your Alde on while on the road? Experience with going over forest service roads? This is the most obvious solution, however, I talked with the Alde folks about that and they really didn't recommend having the propane on and heating while traveling. I've also had some glycol leaking from the reserve while on the road....

@sam this is the 400, I have made sure that all (7!) radiators are not blocked. However, I haven't really opened anything up to see what the situation is... some of them don't get very hot at all, the one by the bed works by far the best.

Sharon_is_SAM · February 2018

Do you have enough glycol in the reservoir? Also, is it possible there is some air in the glycol lines? What is your glycol pump speed set at?

xbooooo · February 2018

I run the refrigerator on propane while driving (320S), unless there is something I don't know about, I would run heat if I felt the need. We don't do cold weather camping.

jkjenn · February 2018

If I want to expedite the warm-up process, I open the bed and the cover of the rear radiator, behind the back bench and am usually cozy in under an hour. I think some of the issue people experience is that bit feels different when a radiator heats up a space if you are used to forced air.

db_cooper · February 2018

I run with the refrigerator on propane and a couple times with the Alde on heat while heading to a ski parking lot. It helps, but I think there's a fair bit of cold air that gets in through the fridge vents and AC vent. The 400 I'm sure is different, but in the Outback we just open the back shelf and move a cushion or two out of the way to let the heat out while we set up. We're usually too warm sleeping because we err on that side. The floor is always cold though, I'd like to do something about that someday.

laetulos · March 2018

The glycol is about half way between min and max, pump set at 4, possible that there is air in the lines, are their instructions anywhere on how to deal with that?

The fridge on the 400 isn't 3-way, so I can't run it on propane, a real bummer!

Actually, the floor on the 400 is a strength, it stays pretty warm! I don't see anyway in the 400 to open up the radiator cover, looks like I'd have to get a screwdriver and take things apart, but maybe I'm missing something.

Sharon_is_SAM · March 2018

I think that the Alde has an automatic air bleeder. Usually an air lock will not allow any glycol through, so since you are getting heat from all your vents it is probably mot that. I I wonder if there are smaller and larger radiator fins that would account for the heat difference? Your pump is certainly high enough, maybe too high which may account for any excess noise from bubbling in the reservoir.

ericnliz · March 2018

@SAM, Good point about the Alde pump. @laetulos, Might want to give nuCamp (or Alde) a shout & find out what the recommended setting is for the pump.

Sharon_is_SAM · March 2018

The 320 Alde setting is 1.5. Seems like there was a discussion with a 400 owner re this topic.

Talan · March 2018

jrslad said:

I just picked up a used 2015 T@B Max S model to replace a one year old T@G. I moved up to the T@B S for the obvious reasons; size, water heat, cabin heat, toilet and shower. I have been reading the forum threads regarding the Alde and I am not comforted by the seemingly finicky nature of the system. Blown fuses, overheating to the point of a pressure failure, pump vibration, etc. etc. etc. So tell me, is the system reliable or am I going to be continuously chasing problems resulting in ongoing frustration? I'm retired, I want to camp not fix. Does anyone find the system to be easy to deal with?
Thanks,
Spending February in the Florida Panhandle so I might need heat.

Talan · March 2018

I have brand new 2017 T@B Max S with the 3010 alde system Worked great the first weekend I owned it Now it takes 5 hrs to warm it up from 50 degrees to 72 degrees They don't know what's wrong with it I have replaced so far and under warranty Control digital touch screen monitor Circuit board Fan motor Everything seems to be working but it doesn't heat The antifreeze pipes running thru the camper are hot Still just get half heat I see nothing but problems with the Alde system Now Spencer with the Alde Company is a nice guy and has bent over backwards trying to figure this out 5 hrs to warm up a T@B Max S Come on Good luck with yours

Talan · March 2018

By the way I drove 4.5 hrs to where i bought my T@B Left it with them They couldn't find anything wrong They feel heat and the pipes are hot and said it was ready They turned up the pump speed Now it's so loud from humming you can't sleep Plus the antifreeze in the reservoir is gurgling so loud that will keep you awake also They didn't do anything to find and fix the problem So taking it to your dealer is a waste of time The Alde factory yes it is taking too long to warm up my camper They don't know how to fix it I'm very disappointed

jkjenn · March 2018

Sounds like there is air in the system. If you look in the manual it should tell you how to bleed the radiators.

ScottG · March 2018

@Talan, are you running on propane or electricity or both? Is it the same result regardless of your power source?

ChanW · March 2018

Talan, Just curious,what is the outside temperature?

Are your radiator convection vents unblocked? ie: the vent openings in the back shelf area can get blocked with bedding if you aren't careful.

Is your bed set up, or are you in 'couch configuration'? The heat has a hard time getting out from under the bed, when the bed is set up.

Are the radiators actually hot, or just warm?

Sharon_is_SAM · March 2018

Talan, did you calibrate your Alde Thermostat? What do you mean by half heat? If the glycol pipes are hot, then the system is working, however, if you block the air vents near the floor and/or the vents at the top of the benches and in the back shelf area, the heated air will not circulate.

gulfarea · March 2018

When mine started to gurgle it was because the antifreeze was low. Filled it & all is great now. Art

Homebodyatheart · March 2018

@laetulos some of us carry small ceramic plug in heaters( if you've got shore power). They knock the edge off the cold while the Alde does take longer to heat. Good luck!

laetulos · March 2018

Hi Folks, sorry I was out for a while. Wished that we had the Tab in Hawai'i, would have been a lot of fun on the beaches there. @Talan, that seems to be about how long it takes mine to heat up as well. What really surprised me is that this isn't too far off of Alde's own tests in a controlled room. Coming from a forced air unit to this was pretty shocking. Anyways, my 400 was having a lot of things repaired while we were gone, will update if it is all working better.

rcuomo · April 2018

FYI- Alde 3010 systems installed in North America have an automatic air bleeding system.

LSkrabut · April 2018

Still camping @5420'. The fridge in our 400 is still by far the noisest sound other than me per the wife. Our 400 was claim to have a fix by Nucamp last fall. No second regulator that I could locate. Nor have I found the junction between the stove and Alde. When I tested our 400 @9800' a few weeks ago, the Alde was quiet then to, but that was just a short daytime test. Maybe as some PPL indicated some quiet and some are not. I do have in hand the Alde valve I ordered from UK. Holding off till I test for a few days higher elevation camping

KRG · April 2018

I have a love hate relationship with the ALDE heating system so far. I think it’s going to be great but have had a few problems with it not working on my 2018 T@B 400. I think most of the problem is with the service dept at the dealership where I bought the camper. It is now in the shop for the third time and hopefully third time is the charm. I think there is a learning curve for the dealership and myself.

ChanW · April 2018

@LSkrabut, have you still got the Alde valve not installed?

If not yet installed, I'm wondering if you can measure the smaller, 'high altitude' port for me? I suppose you'd need an inside caliper, or a drill bit would work also...

I'm thinking I'll try drilling a ball valve for the high altitude setting. The 'over the pond' valve is just too expensive!

Thanks. I hope I caught you in time!

LSkrabut · April 2018

@ChanW

The bore hole is too small for my drill set 1/16" (.062) to make any sort of determination.

ChanW · April 2018

Ah. Less than 1/16"?

I can work with that.

Thanks for checking!

LSkrabut said:

@ChanW

The bore hole is too small for my drill set 1/16" (.062) to make any sort of determination.

sgttiki · May 2018

Future T@B 320 S owner. Beside the thermostat, is there any other ALDE System draw on the battery?

Homebodyatheart · May 2018

@sgttiki there’s a number of draws on your battery. Some are obvious, some are phantom draws. There have been a number of different mods on many of the phantom draws here on the forum. There’s also many people more tech/electrical savvy than me who can help. Good luck!

Sharon_is_SAM · May 2018

I believe the Alde display depends on 12 volts. @sgttiki, have you ordered your Tab yet?

ScottG · May 2018

@sgttiki, all of the Alde circuitry depends on 12V. Even when on shore power, 12V is still required from the converter for the unit to operate. However, from my seat-of-the-pants assessment, I don't think the draw is very high.

In addition, the circulator pump can run on either 12V or 120V.

Alde reliability

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