There is a modification like you speak of on the T@B IO forum. He used a pick-up truck hoist that brought the lift-drop drive to the rear. My 2023 has a lift under the front storage box I like. My 2009 had the spare under the rear like yours and I moved it to the side of the tongue as others have suggested.
My trailer's outlet cap is different than the hose, the fittings at the ground vary... This is a mechanics oil filter tool that works well on all brands of RV waste hoses and many other things: IMO much more useful than those single purpose plastic "wrenches". Several choices under $10 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C6FLRYRG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
@Rodent77@manyman297 I bought the replacement almost exactly 1 year ago. It's not dripping black down the side currently, but I'm sure if I wiped it with a rag, the rag would be black. Like I said, it's an exact replacement, so I don't expect it to perform any differently. Here is the info from the invoice:
The bottom line is: this process barely works and is a known failure in the Nautilus trailers. There should not be dozens of threads and videos and complaints over something so very simple. It should not take multiple attempts and several workarounds in the "hope" that it "might" work. The best option is: install the Camco winterizing kit. Or any of the several simple mods that worked the same way.
Why did this Camco kit work first time/every time, without having to open a drain?
As others have already indicated, LiFePO4 batteries do not require venting and are agnostic regarding orientation. It seems most of us install them with the terminals facing up however, and the passenger-side bench is a popular location for a pair for many 320 owners.
I decided to move my Dr. Prepare Powermax battery and my Smart Shunt from the tub to the interior next to the passenger side seat/bin. The idea is the battery will stay warmer inside the trailer and therefore accept more solar charging when it's cold out. I'm not going to futz with a battery warmer.
The discussion and images in this thread are very helpful. On our 2023 320s, the power cutoff is located on the front of that passenger side compartment, so I just detached the OEM wires there and will reuse that switch with the new 8 AWG wire I'll use for the short run over to the controller and ground bus.
In our bin, there are two fused sets of OEM wires that connect to the battery. One is for the trailer's main power circuit and the other comes from the Victron solar controller. But there are two negative wires crimped together at the lug for the main power. I need to figure out where the second negative wire comes from. Perhaps from the tow wiring junction box.
I think I'm going to take advantage of the hub device for the Powermax battery and install a port to hook up a portable solar panel via that hub. The hub can handle 100w of of solar, and I think I'll put an SAE-type solar port in the wall near the battery. I'd rather have another Victron controller with Bluetooth controls, but for the money I've decided to use the stuff I already own. I'll have to run new wires from my Victron solar to the battery, but that's also a short and easy interior run.
Rather than undercharge from the WFCO "never detect" controller, I have a Victron Blue Smart IP65 12-Volt 15 amp battery charger that works great and I can plug into the AC outlet under the dinette seating.
I see no reason why you couldn't do this. In fact, running new wires between the interior benches sounds a lot easier than running new wires from the WFCO to the tub (been there, done that...). You would just need to run your battery (-) into the DC ground bus, and splice your battery (+) into the existing line from the tub. You could (and probably should) mount a new cutoff switch next to to the WFCO.
The one caveat I would add is to NOT disconnect the existing battery lines from the power center to the front tub. Assuming your 2021 is wired similarly to my 2015, these wires run through a forward junction box that also connects them to the pigtail (to allow charging from your tow vehicle) as well as to the breakaway brake system (which draws power from the house battery in the event of complete trailer separation). If you relocate the battery to the inside, you will want to make sure those connections to the forward junction box are maintained.
I have a clamshell and the day I bought it (6 years ago) I scraped the tire on the curb pulling out of the seller's driveway. so the first thing I did was move the spare to the tongue. There hasn't been any negative effect on trailer handling. I do pack my camper pretty carefully for travel with anything heavy on the floor over the axle. There is no way that I'd ever put the spare under the back again.
If you're really worried I suppose that you could put a couple of pieces of cast iron cookware in the galley.