I upgraded to 280aH DIY Grade B Lithium Cells I assembled along with relocated battery in the cabin passenger side wheel well storage of 2021 CS-S. I upgraded the converter to a PD4060(LI) and have upgraded wiring to handle the higher charge currents. Other notes is the addition of a 1200 watt inverter and automatic cut over switch for inverter. Its been a major electrical overhaul but am extremely pleased with the result and it's possible I may add another 280aH of Lithium. I watched @jkjenn video before my work and got a lot of great info from it and was able to make a more informed choice of my conversion. Thanks @jkjenn great video with precise reasoning behind your decisions. I have a few other electrical changes I am happy to share if there is a request.
2009 Dutchman TQ - Sold 2021 CS-S - Enjoying the new layout 2011 Outback 3.6r
Start a new discussion, so we don't have to wade through all of this one to see your ideas. I find it hard to later look back at concepts when they're hidden within a discussion of a different title.
Thanks to the input and assistance from several forum members, in conjunction with upgrading to the Isotherm two-way refrigerator (documented in a separate discussion thread) I successfully completed the installation of a Battle Born 100Ah LiFePo4 lithium battery inside the driver's side electrical compartment of my 2019 T@B 320 S Boondock. The installation was fairly straightforward and included adding the Victron BMV-712 battery monitor and a Furrion Solar Port for use with my Renogy 100W Solar Suitcase.
Battery Installation: I added some "Fastronix" flexible battery post covers (for the battery) and 3/8" stud flexible boot covers (for the Victron shunt), both purchased from Amazon. As noted in the photo below, I installed the Furrion Solar Port through the side wall of the driver's side of the trailer, just to the rear of the wheel well area and adjacent to the 30A power cord outlet. The Victron BMV-712 shunt is installed close to the battery, as depicted in the lower right corner of the photo.
I installed a couple metal "L" brackets in the floor (using 1/2" screws) to keep the battery aligned and in place. There really isn't a need to enclose the battery and it fits very well/snugly within the electrical compartment. I will likely replace my WFCO 8735P Power Center with one designed for charging a lithium battery.
Battery Disconnect Switch: I added a "Blue Sea Systems Battery m-Series" (Part #6006200) disconnect switch, also purchased through Amazon. After thinking it all through, diagramming all the wiring, and obtaining some additional input from @ScottG, the wiring process was fairly straightforward. I removed the wiring from the factory-installed disconnect switch in the aluminum tub, but left the switch in place. The new disconnect switch is installed inline between the WFCO Converter's +12V wire (red) and the battery's positive post using 10 gauge wire.
I also left in place the factory installed 10 gauge positive (red) and negative (white) wires between the electrical compartment and the front exterior junction box. The positive wire is connected directly to the battery. Therefore, assuming the battery wires are connected to the battery, power will be available for the emergency breakaway switch and brakes, regardless of whether the disconnect switch is "on" or "off."
External Solar Connection Port: I added a Furrion Solar Port (Part #FSPINS-BS), similar to the installation previously posted by by @DenisP. It took a little thought and planning to decide where to locate the external port. I wanted to locate it close to the battery and initially considered placing it directly above the 30A outlet, but the trailer's framework prevented that. I then considered the area adjacent to the front end of the driver's side wheel well, but that too was partially blocked by the trailer framework. I finally determined that I could locate it between the rearward driver's side wheel well/trim and the 30A electrical outlet, as depicted in the photo below.
I got a bit of a surprise when I pulled out the portion of the wall that I had drilled through - - a section of a hidden piece of galvanized steel was included with the Azdel, foam, etc., that I had drilled out. Since only a 1/2 circle portion of metal was cut out, I can only assume that my entry point was at the outer edge of a sheet of metal. I have never read/seen any mention of a sheet of metal in that area (i.e., adjacent to the 30A electrical outlet), so it definitely was a surprise. No harm, no foul, but if anybody has any idea as to why that metal is there, I would be interested in your thoughts. My best guess is that it is some sort of additional wall support.
Victron BMV-712 Installation: I installed the digital display screen for the Victron monitor above the Alde display. The location worked really well, because it allowed me to easily route the data cable up through the wall behind the television and Alde display.
Wiring Diagram:
I recently returned from a trip to New Mexico and Texas, which gave me the opportunity to test everything and it all works as expected. I am very pleased with the installation and greatly appreciate the input offered by other forum members.
@Bayliss Here is a VERY limited view of the driver side construction that I believe shows a thin, metal plate in the area behind the wheel. Probably just to allow them to add in electrical and plumbing before the side wall is added.
Thanks for the photo, @Sharon_is_SAM I don't believe I have seen that particular photo previously, but it does indeed show a metal plate at that location, albeit in a later year model 320 S.
Comments
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
2021 CS-S - Enjoying the new layout
2011 Outback 3.6r
Start a new discussion, so we don't have to wade through all of this one to see your ideas. I find it hard to later look back at concepts when they're hidden within a discussion of a different title.
2019 320 Boondock Edge - Sold Jan 2022
Battery Installation: I added some "Fastronix" flexible battery post covers (for the battery) and 3/8" stud flexible boot covers (for the Victron shunt), both purchased from Amazon. As noted in the photo below, I installed the Furrion Solar Port through the side wall of the driver's side of the trailer, just to the rear of the wheel well area and adjacent to the 30A power cord outlet. The Victron BMV-712 shunt is installed close to the battery, as depicted in the lower right corner of the photo.
I installed a couple metal "L" brackets in the floor (using 1/2" screws) to keep the battery aligned and in place. There really isn't a need to enclose the battery and it fits very well/snugly within the electrical compartment. I will likely replace my WFCO 8735P Power Center with one designed for charging a lithium battery.
Battery Disconnect Switch: I added a "Blue Sea Systems Battery m-Series" (Part #6006200) disconnect switch, also purchased through Amazon. After thinking it all through, diagramming all the wiring, and obtaining some additional input from @ScottG, the wiring process was fairly straightforward. I removed the wiring from the factory-installed disconnect switch in the aluminum tub, but left the switch in place. The new disconnect switch is installed inline between the WFCO Converter's +12V wire (red) and the battery's positive post using 10 gauge wire.
I also left in place the factory installed 10 gauge positive (red) and negative (white) wires between the electrical compartment and the front exterior junction box. The positive wire is connected directly to the battery. Therefore, assuming the battery wires are connected to the battery, power will be available for the emergency breakaway switch and brakes, regardless of whether the disconnect switch is "on" or "off."
External Solar Connection Port: I added a Furrion Solar Port (Part #FSPINS-BS), similar to the installation previously posted by by @DenisP. It took a little thought and planning to decide where to locate the external port. I wanted to locate it close to the battery and initially considered placing it directly above the 30A outlet, but the trailer's framework prevented that. I then considered the area adjacent to the front end of the driver's side wheel well, but that too was partially blocked by the trailer framework. I finally determined that I could locate it between the rearward driver's side wheel well/trim and the 30A electrical outlet, as depicted in the photo below.
I got a bit of a surprise when I pulled out the portion of the wall that I had drilled through - - a section of a hidden piece of galvanized steel was included with the Azdel, foam, etc., that I had drilled out. Since only a 1/2 circle portion of metal was cut out, I can only assume that my entry point was at the outer edge of a sheet of metal. I have never read/seen any mention of a sheet of metal in that area (i.e., adjacent to the 30A electrical outlet), so it definitely was a surprise. No harm, no foul, but if anybody has any idea as to why that metal is there, I would be interested in your thoughts. My best guess is that it is some sort of additional wall support.
Victron BMV-712 Installation: I installed the digital display screen for the Victron monitor above the Alde display. The location worked really well, because it allowed me to easily route the data cable up through the wall behind the television and Alde display.
Wiring Diagram:
I recently returned from a trip to New Mexico and Texas, which gave me the opportunity to test everything and it all works as expected. I am very pleased with the installation and greatly appreciate the input offered by other forum members.
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
Cheers
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
@Cherokee do you find these work better than one regular 12v deep cycle? And do they both fit in the standard group 27 size battery box in your tub?