Alde System

mickietucs

Not sure which model is in a unit but here's a link from the Alde site that lists all their manuals: http://www.alde.se/usa/support/manuals-downloads/manuals/

Perhaps that helps?

stanm

This is probably the correct manual.

http://www.alde.se/media/53810/manoverpanel_mekanisk_3010-214_v-3010-19_rev_964.pdf

BillandElaine

Here is how we set the controls on our Alde to get heat (and hot water if we are hooked up to water), using campsite power. This is the electric power setting.

Bill

2014 T@B CS-S Max

oldnewartguy

Hi guys,---just got back from our first outing in the 2014 T@B s maxx. Sadly, the Alde system did not function at all. I too realized that "manual" seemed to have no relation to the system. Since we also need to have the table replaced, we are taking her to the dealer. Hope to get a repair and a good explanation of how the system works next week.

XPADREX

Stanm's control pdf is what we have. There is a slight goof, in that it describes position J as hot water off. Position I, with the power switch set to 3 lightning bolts out to get it done. We'll see tomorrow night, unless it's another hot one.

BillandElaine

Do you want JUST hot water? We got it without heat by setting the controls as shown in the photo (click to enlarge for viewing) and sliding the slider next to the knob up to the hot water symbol on the control panel. 

Bill 

Mount Airy, MD

2014 T@B CS-S

2011 Subaru Forester

XPADREX

I apologize for the confusion... I was referring to the difference between this control panel, and the manual control panel on the full 3000 (not 3010) manual which I found prior as the only manual to use this analog interface.

On that other one, there was a setting for "heat only", no water. Ours does not have that option, only heat and water, or water only.

DurangoTaB

AHA! Many thanks to Stanm for the manual posting (the manual that just came with ours is for the electronic (German?) version. Turns out our dealer misinformed us about settings...that the "lightning bolts" were for the room temp setting and the knob for hot water...it's the other way around.

DurangoTaB

After talking to Scott Hubble...the lightning bolts are heater wattage controls...roughly 1,000/2,000/3,000 watts...basically how fast do you want to crank up the heat. Seems to me you wouldn't do 2K or 3K if you're hooked up to a 15amp circuit (like my garage). Ed tells me the water temp is regulated the same, the round knob is a true thermostat (the "O" setting betwen 3 and 4 being 22degC).

DurangoTaB

My Alde-ego learnings...let me know if I've missed something! Not getting much help from the dealer, Ed K (he's sorta/kinda sure how it works), or even Alde/USA: This unit was designed for 220V/30amps (ref. Alde's web site); no wonder she's slow on 110/15amps! Shore Power: 110V/15amps (e.g. plugged into your garage) * Slooow heating...but you're probably not camping with this kind of connection. More likely recharging batteries, and if the heat is on at all, it's set low for freeze protection. I don't think you can get more than 1,000W (i.e. one "lightning bolt") of power with this configuration. 110V/30amps * i.e. at a campground connection * I think (?) you can now get 2 "lightning" bolts, i.e. 2,000watts, of electrical heating if desired. This would probably be faster than a 15amp circuit, but certainly not like 220V. Propane i.e. "flame" setting of the slide control * My guess is you'd get more heat faster with this setting...BUT, the pump only pumps the radiator hot water so fast, and will only react to the knob/thermostat either on or off (circuilating or not)...but in combination with 110V/30amp electric will probably do a decent job taking the chill off the cabin on a cold morning. I'm assuming most folks who do cold weather campibg (nights in the Rockies are often cold, even in the summer), turn their heater on low overnight, then if needed, turn the thermostat up in the morning. Any thoughts or suggstions are most welcome!!!

DurangoTaB

I can't find those 3.1A/250V fuses anywhere (even calling Radio Shack), so I called the dealer...guess what...when they need one they steal it from another unit on the lot. I'm going to Denver this weekend...maybe Ikea will have it! )

Wanderoo

DurangoT@B -- I have only been plugged into the 30 amp shore power at a campground to test my Alde.  It took about 30 minutes to heat up, but it got very, very warm and I had to turn the heat down to the lowest setting overnight to be comfortable.  The outside temperature was 39 degrees. I had mine set on 2 lightning bolts, electric only.

Now, as far as the fuse is concerned, I believe it's a 3.15A/250 V fuse.  You can search which Radio Shack stores have this fuse in stock, which is what I did.  Pop out your existing fuse and take it with you to be absolutely sure.

I'll have to experiment with the propane setting to see how it compares to the electric setting.  I really like the Alde because it's so QUIET. 

8->

DurangoTaB

Beth...our radio shack has slow blow but not fast...did you get fast acting?

DurangoTaB

...my first car was a '59 Volvo. Helpful comments from Sweden! Hello Mr Watson,   I really do hope you will learn to love our little system, I will do my best to help you.   First of all the power difference on propane versus electric is quite big. You have 18.700 Btu on propane (5.500W) but only about 6500 Btu (1900W) on electric so it will take a little longer for it to heat up on just electric. The mentions of 230V is for the European spec heater as we use 230V here, however the Amp is much lower (between 10-16A tops) so the power outage is roughly the same. We are doing our best to train and educate the dealers all across North America about the Alde system so in the future they should be able to give you more information and help about it and how it works. You are of course always welcome to contact us directly or through our American company Alde US if you have any further questions or concerns.   Regarding your questions below;   1. You can bleed the system, this can very well be the problem if the circulation is poor. Heat up the system, turn off the circulation pump and gently open up the bleeding valves oine by one, be sure to have a piece of cloth under the nozzle as glycol fluid might come out. Make sure all the bleeding valves are securely closed after you are done and start the pump again, please keep an eye on the glycol level in the expansion tank as it might be lower than recommended. Refill as needed.   2. The level should be about half an inch above the Min line in the tank when the system is cold. If you need to control the antifreeze capability of the liquid there should be affordable testers at Home Depot or similar stores, it´s similar to car glycol.   3. 110V at 30A gives you a maximum output of 3.300W, the heater has 1900W maximum so that should not be the problem. However you mention a 15A extension cord, the longer the cord the more voltage loss you get. So in the end the heater might just get 100V or even 90V which affects the overall wattage.   4. Yes, as I mentioned in the beginning of the email you have a lot more power on propane. The most efficient way of heating up the system, especially if it´s cold, is to turn it on with propane and electric until it has reached the desired temperature, then turn off the propane and use electric to maintain the heat. I can also mention that the heater always prioritize electric over propane so if you activate both sources it will always try to keep the propane usage to a minimum.   I hope this has helped you, have a nice day and a great weekend.     Best Regards Henrik Thulin     Alde International Systems AB Box 11066 SE-291 11 Färlöv Sweden Direct: +46 44 71274 Phone: +46 44 71270 Fax: +46 44 71848 henrik.thulin@alde.se www.alde.se       -----Ursprungligt meddelande----- Från: John Watson [mailto:woodworkwatson@gmail.com] Skickat: den 15 maj 2014 17:49 Till: info Ämne: Compact 3010 Heater Help   Greetings from Durango, Colorado, USA!   We just purchased a "T@B" travel trailer (similar to the Tabbert caravan in Europe), made my Little Guy (Ohio, USA), which now includes an Alde 3010 heater.   I think I'll like it once I get it to work!   I have it parked in my house driveway, connected with the standard 30amp cord to a 15amp extension cord and 110V service at our house.  We've had some cold nights here and I wanted to be sure I didn't have any pipes freeze (the unit has been "de-winterized").  As I read the "FAQ" notes on the Alde/USA site, it often references 230V connections...it appears the unit has been designed for that kind of (much more power) connection.   This morning it was 38degF inside the trailer, so I turned on the heater (we have the 214 controller) as high as I could (I don't know if the slider switch does much with only 110V and 15 amps), and it has taken almost 3 hours to heat up.    Our dealer doesn't know much about the Alde (most disappointing), and Alde/USA doesn't answer phone calls or email.  I'm hoping you can help!   1. Can a consumer like me (I'm a retired engineer) bleed the system for air?  Could this be the problem? 2. How can I be sure the glycol mix is up and correct? 3. Or...is the slow heating just a factor of low voltage and amperage?  Most RV parks provide 110V, but 30amps capacity. 4. While camping...would we be better off (faster heating) using propane?    Many thanks for your help! John Watson Durango, Colorado 970-403-9715    

BryanR

JD - I believe fast blow and fast acting are synonymous. Someone can correct if this is wrong. I also was only able to find a 125V fuse initially that appears to be adequate since I am only able to run on 110 power. I assume the 250v fuse is because the system is designed for 220v power.

Wanderoo

Hi, DurangoT@B -- Thanks for sharing the e-mail from Alde.  This is great information to educate us on how the system works without so much trial and error. 

I checked my fuse supply from Radio Shack and, rats-in-the-haystack, they had sold me the 250V Slow-Blow fuse; so no, I do not have the correct fuse.  I went back to Radio Shack yesterday to get the fast-blow (or fact-acting), and they did not have it.  They tried to tell me all I need is the 125V fast-acting fuse, and I guess you can use that type if you are plugged into 110V.  I even looked on my electrical diagram in the Alde User Manual and it just says that it uses 3.15A, 5 x 20mm.  So, I'm still a little confused about whether or not I need the 250V fuse. 

To be on the safe side, I found the 3.15A 250V, 5 x 20 mm Fast-Acting fuse on Amazon, and so I ordered a 5-pack of them.  I should be covered, I think.   

:-??

XPADREX

Let me tell you... after two hours hiking in 51 degree weather and intermittent rain, it feels good to come back to the warmth of the T@b. I'll call the Alde a winner.

DurangoTaB

Beth...1) "rats in the haystack?"...I love that expression! 2) do you have a link/source on amazon for those fuses? Thanks!

Wanderoo

Hi, DurangoT@B -- Here is what I ordered. I hope ++++ it's the right thing.  http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009EU9ZWQ/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

I stand by the Alde, even though it's been a little confusing figuring out how it works.  I love the fact that it's so quiet.

When I returned the 125V fuses to Radio Shack, they said that there are very few places that carry the 250V fuse.  They did say that Grainger carried them.  I figure it's easier to order them from Amazon than to spend my time & gas driving to a place that carries them. 

:-w

deputydog

     I'm glad I read these articles. Helpful because I checked my tube and sure enough it was not attached to anything.  I've been using t@b on and off pass 9 months with no problems regarding tube.  I stuck tube into hole. Sounds logical to me.?

Justjudy

We just brought our new T@B home yesterday evening and didn't plug into shore power until just now. Even though all the sliders on the Alde are set to the off position, I can hear it humming. Is that normal? Thanks to anyone who can ease tha newbie jitters.

Justjudy

Update: by the time I went back out after posting, the humming had stopped. Hmmmm.

DurangoTaB

Are you sure it was the Alde...and not the converter?

scuba

Not sure it is the alde you are hearing. Maybe the convertor?

Verna

Judy, it's my understanding that the converter hums for a few minutes.  It is a good thing if it quits after a while. Do a search on hum, and you'll find others who have had the same hum.

Michigan_Mike

Hmmmmm, interesting!  

Wanderoo

It may be the converter humming, and not the Alde.  Put your ear down to the converter box and see if you can hear something.  Were you able to test the Alde before you brought it home? :(

Justjudy

I think you are all correct. I think it was the converter. Just me having palpitations. The Alde system works perfectly. We didn't test it before we left the dealership. Should have. I have another question about the air conditioner in the S. Should I look for a more relevant discussion?

twocutes

So glad I ran across this thread as I have an Alde system and was confused from the outset when the control panel pictured on the Alde Compact 3010 Heater instruction manual is not the same as the control panel in the T@B, also labelled 3010.  See attached photos.  The T@B user manual indicates there is a water heater tank, but I've read enough other posts that I believe the Alde system is an on-demand water heater, not using a tank.  However, I'm still not planning to use hot water on my first trip this coming week, as I am not confident about how everything works and the campground has modern facilities.  I have a few questions that maybe other users can answer or I may need to go to Ed at Pleasant Valley.  I have flushed and dumped the fresh water, grey, and black water tanks, as it was winterized with RV antifreeze.  Do I need to do anything additional for the Alde water heating system?

Wanderoo

Hi, Beth (from another Beth!) -- You will need to have either a City Water connection or have your fresh water tank filled with water to operate the Alde.  Also, make sure the white T-stem valve is in the "inline" position (under the right back bench on the floor where the Alde is located), which opens the water line.  Have you been able to view the correct "slider" position reference materials for the 2014 Alde system?   If not, I was able to locate it quickly and here it is.  I love the Alde, and although it takes about 30 minutes to get the water heated and the heat rolling, it's a very efficient system and it is SOOOO quiet.

Enjoy!!!! 

>-