New T@b - can't get Alde working

TerryV6

Well,  we picked up our new camper.   The dealer spent a couple of hours taking us thru the nuts and bolts of everything.  He showed us the Alde  control panel,  and like other comments here,  said that we should set it for 1 up,  2 down (we plugged into the house)  3 is up for heat/water,  and finally,  most times we could leave the control setting on the circle.  So,  we get home and want to check it out.    But... We just get cool air.   I opened the fuse box and the 15 and 30 switches were both up,  the rest down.   There is a red light lite inside the box.....  Moving on...  The lights work,  the ceiling fan does not.   There is a blue indicator light on the TV,  so I assume there is power there.  The Stereo does not come on.  
Thoughts? 

TerryV6

The dealership is 100 miles out -  only bad thing,  and will be closed till Monday.   My wife will send an email.   I thought I'd try to figure this out in case we didn't do something.   Don't want to look stupid... Grin..  Well,  actually that's not too hard.. 

jdargis

Ceiling fan- is the vent open, won't run when down or closed.

Verna

Red light in converter means you have a blown fuse next to that light. Needs to be changed.

Slider 1 should be on 2 lightning bolts
Slider 2 should be on electric (if you are plugged into electric)
Slider 3 should be on Alde heat and hot water (middle setting). (Upper setting is for hot water only.)

The dial is to be set to your comfort--it's for the Alde temp. 

All ll circuit breakers in the converter should be on--I have 5 circuit breakers.

jdargis

Also, on the ceiling fan, set selection
to blow in or out.

How long has your Alde been on?  This is not forced air heat, so the boiler has to come up to temperature.  I believe you said you are from the Appleton area, you are cold starting the heat in 30 degree temperatures.  Also, turn your propane gas on, light a burner make sure you have gas flow, then set your Alde 2 setting up to the propane flame.  You will get a quicker temperature rise through the radiators by supplementing with the propane heat.

Verna

Blue light on TV is normal. 

TerryV6

I'll give that a go Verna.   Thanks..   Joe the dealer said only 1 lightning bolt..   "NEVER EVER EVER USE THE OTHER TWO SETTINGS"   That will cause blown breakers... 

Speaking of which,  I guess I'll have to get one somewhere.. 

Verna

TerryV6 said:

I'll give that a go Verna.   Thanks..   Joe the dealer said only 1 lightning bolt..   "NEVER EVER EVER USE THE OTHER TWO SETTINGS"   That will cause blown breakers... 

Speaking of which,  I guess I'll have to get one somewhere.. 

Terry, do a search here on lightning bolts....two lightning bolts is the normal setting. 

The "breakers" in the converter are resettable, just light your circuit breaker box at your home. "Fuses" can blow and will need to be replaced, such as the fuse next to the red light in the converter box.

Please do a search (upper right corner of this page) for fuses to get a list of spare fuses you will need for your T@B. 

TerryV6

Thanks Verna,  I was doing what I was towed.   I didn't think it was a blown breaker in my case,  but a fuse.   I've been mining the valuable knowledge here and have quite a large binder of stuff,  including the fuse list... 

I had mentioned all of the stuff I've been printing to Joe the dealer,  and he said you could have problems listening to "those people"..  Sneer Sneer... 

ChanW

Terry, Verna, the one or two lightning bolt setting is correct for a normal household outlet connection, and are equivalent to each other (on our 2014 US version anyway). Three bolts setting could be too high draw for a non-dedicated household circuit. You can use the three lightning bolt setting, when connected to a heavy duty outlet, like at a campground.

 The light in the breaker box indicates a blown fuse. The fuses are like automotive fuses, with the amperage printed on them to indicate what size to get to replace one.

All the breaker switches should be in the 'on' position - I don't remember if that's up or down, but it's printed on the switch.

If you need to, take a photo of the breaker box switches and fuses for us, and the Alde control settings.

(Edit: corrected two three bolts)

Verna

Terry, we have camped in our T@B's. I'm on my 79th straight night this year camping in my T@B.  35 nights camping last year in the T@B, and 85 nights in my Little Guy Silver Shadow.

I had the analog thermostat for the first 7 1/2 months of my ownership and camping. I wonder how many nights he has camped in a T@B?  

Once you you get everything working (keep notes on what "those people" helped you fix), it would be a wonderful help to his future T@B owners if you would tell him how "those people" helped you.

And for the record, Joe Kicos and Little Guy pay for this forum so we owners can help each other.  He loves that we help each other. 

Keep fixing, use the search feature, read your printed notes, and keep asking.  We'll keep the light on for ya.....

TerryV6

I do appreciate your help!!  It's a great site too..  We've camped on the ground for almost 42  years.   We thought it time to move "indoors" and picked a great camper... 

TerryV6

Picked up some spare fuses today.  Replaced the one with the red light.   We now have a roof fan and stereo.   No heat however.   So,  we turned off the switches,  opened up the propane tank tried the controller with the switchy thing set to flame...  No heat.   Put the control on 4, no heat.. 
But,  with our camper in the driveway,  and our amused neighbors looking on,  we are sleeping in it tonight... 

Nomad

With all heat - but especially radient in my experience - you need to get everything heated (walls, cushions, etc) so it takes some time (depending on the start temp)
With hot air, you'll feel the warm air blowing around - with radient, not so much.

ChanW

ST_Bob, your knowledgeable, clear, and complete explanations are great!

RollingLagrima

TerryV6 said:

Picked up some spare fuses today.  Replaced the one with the red light.   We now have a roof fan and stereo.   No heat however.   So,  we turned off the switches,  opened up the propane tank tried the controller with the switchy thing set to flame...  No heat.   Put the control on 4, no heat.. 
But,  with our camper in the driveway,  and our amused neighbors looking on,  we are sleeping in it tonight... 

Did you check the two cylindrical glass fuses under the black lid of the Alde itself?  These are different fuses than the red light ones you already found and fixed.  You will likely find two spares taped near the fuse compartment (under the black cover). My 2016 came with extras taped there.

Nomad

ST_Bob - Sorry to quibble but I had hot water heat with radiators and every single heating/plumbing guy I knew called it "radient" - They are "radiators" after all :-)

Nomad

In the upper midwest (MN) it's radient when baseboards as well as in floor systems. They don't really distinguish.

ChanW

Yes, those Minnesotans are pretty 'middle of the road', easy goin', comfortable-like folks. I think for them, warm is warm.

Here in Buffalo, we have different levels of warm - That'd be cold, colder, and frikkin cold.

But radiant heat is the ultimate. We love it in both our 1860s plank farmhouse and our 2014 Model 'S' Tab!

source3

Terry V6.  Hope you have it all figures out.  But for historical purposes.

To simplify the lighting bolts on the Alde when plugged into AC.  One bolt - regular 15amp 120v household.  Two bolts - 30amp 120v (commonly at campgrounds or if you installed a 30amp fuse in your household electrical box).  Three bolts - Ignore (as stated before, the Alde is European and we do not commonly use 220v current for day-to-day use in our households.  

And as RollingLagrima stated, check the two small fuses in the Alde compartment.  They are located in a green plastic holder.  Very difficult to see blown fuse as the fuses are small.  Check with a multi-meter if unsure.  The fuses are 3.15 amps and you should have extras that came with the Alde.  Also order more online as local stores usually only carry 3 amps, which will not work.

Nomad

ST_Bob - My head hurts, please fed ex some asprin...
I'm still calling mine a radient heat system ;-)

jkjenn

Here is a photo from the driver side bench. It might be hard to see at the lower resolution, but the connectors are finned.


This is what the Alde USA site says:

How it works

Nothing can compete with hydronic heating

Hydronic heating provides silent, even-temperature, all-round heating. Natural, slow air currents provide healthy air with natural humidity. Hydronic heating provides discreet, unobtrusive, quality heating. Not only does the furnace provide cozy, silent heating, it also provides a constant source of hot water for the shower and galley.

Alde central heating is a hydronic system that works on the same principles as those found in many of our homes. The heat source consists of a propane furnace with a 230 Volt electric element that heats a mixture of water and glycol. The hot glycol mixture is circulated through the system's convectors and pipes with the aid of a pump.

The convectors, which are located along the outer walls, heat the air. The air then rises and heats the walls and furniture. Because heat rises, a boundary air seal forms in front of the windows, which keeps the cold out. When the warm air reaches the ceiling it circulates down to the floor and is heated again by the convectors.

Every vehicle needs ventilation, i.e. stale air must be expelled and fresh air drawn in. The fresh air supplied to the vehicle should be led through an insulated air intake and then up through a convector with tightly packed fins. In this way the incoming fresh air is heated when the heating system is running. The stale air is led out through roof grilles and ventilators.

If the installation is done properly, the natural flow of heat from the Alde central heating system will wrap the entire living space in cozy warmth that keeps out drafts, eliminates cold zones and even warms bunk spaces and cupboards.

We also recommend floor heating to achieve a complete heating system with maximum comfort. The heating pipes under the floor are connected together using standard fittings and are controlled either manually or via a by-pass assembly for convenience.

 

If you look at this link, you can see that under floor heating is available with the 3010, but the T@bs do not have it.

source3

ST_Bob, the error light illuminated red on the control panel and is triggered when voltage drops below 10.5.  See Page 1 of the attached.  Attachment also explains the wattage of the lighting bolts and other functions.

Nomad

They do have an American version of their manual in case one is not aware.

ScottG

Is the Alde a furnace (as described in their documentation) or is it really a boiler?

Or maybe it's a furnace with a hydronic heat exchanger.  Is that different from a boiler?

And is it really a boiler if nothing is actually boiling?  Maybe it's really a simmerer...

source3

ST_Bob.  Thanks again for the clarification.  For those that need the source: Alde USA website - Output heating cartridge: 2 x 950 W (120 V ~)

http://www.alde.se/usa/products/mobile/?page=4504

Nomad

Oh oh ScottG - Now you've done it ;-)

ScottG

That's gotta be it! We can't seem to agree on how to translate English to English, never mind Swedish!  :-0

TerryV6

Wow..  So much info..  I have so many discussions favorited,  that I've missed some of these comments.   My wife and I muddle on..  Still no heat..  This morning we are "going in"  and checking the fuses on the Alde.   Is there a visual way to see if they are bad?   Also saw a reset fix.... Dig dig dig..   I started this thread and have since then seen lots of others already posted.   All of the old veterans have lots of patience...   Collecting data,  we are going onto another binder..   Someone should write an idiots guide.   Grin... Lots of homework... 

jkjenn

TerryV6 said:

Wow..  So much info..  I have so many discussions favorited,  that I've missed some of these comments.   My wife and I muddle on..  Still no heat..  This morning we are "going in"  and checking the fuses on the Alde.   Is there a visual way to see if they are bad?   Also saw a reset fix.... Dig dig dig..   I started this thread and have since then seen lots of others already posted.   All of the old veterans have lots of patience...   Collecting data,  we are going onto another binder..   Someone should write an idiots guide.   Grin... Lots of homework... 

If the wire that goes from one to the other is broken or if the glass is discolored, looking burnt, it is bad.

Michigan_Mike

PXLated said:

ST_Bob - My head hurts, please fed ex some asprin...
I'm still calling mine a radient heat system ;-)

I agree!  Way too much information and having worked in the electric utility industry for 40 years myself, way too much info for the average lay person/T@B owner.   

And BTW Terry, the ceiling fan has a small switch built  into it and unless you crank the vent cover up high enough (and far enough to activate the switch) the fan motor will not activate and run.  Try cranking the vent cover and see if the vent fan operates as I'm guessing that this is the real issue here.

Here is some additional information from the manufacturer:

Q  MY FANTASTIC VENT WILL OPEN BUT THE FAN BLADE WILL NOT TURN WHAT IS WRONG?

A   The motor ground is made or broken using a plunger switch, located on the hinge side of the dome accessible from the top of the coach, this plunger style switch can become dirty, sticky, or corroded from the elements and may need to be cleaned with some emery cloth or replaced.  Most of the time when a fan will not operate this switch is the culprit. The nut is a 7/16” size if this needs to be removed.