Changing out the Alde fluid.

fstop32

@Maple_Geek my experience was I had lots of corrosion but my glycol pH still checked within acceptable range.  I suspect that if we could check the pH of the glycol that seeps under the hose/convector connection probably does NOT have the same pH reading as what is flowing through the hoses or in the reservoir tank.  I would not suggest only going on pH reading.  Hopefully things will be different with the Rhomar but as @AnOldUR suggested we don't really have much historical data on the Rhomar yet.

pthomas745

And, in @Maple_Geek and the dealer's defense, many of us had no idea about this issue for several years.  I never gave it a thought in my 2017 until it started to become an issue in the Forums, etc.  It wasn't until two years ago I even knew what to look for.  ( I did one drain and replace, and that probably just emptied a gallon).  So, when did my corrosion start?  Right away? Immediately after 2 years?  Who knows? 

When I get my trailer back together, and refill with the Century, how long will the conformal coated, heat shrinked (heat shrunked?) convector ends survive, or will they survive, without a glycol change?

The only things we have really learned here are: ensure the hoses are properly connected and clamped.  Look for the telltale bulges. 

Maple_Geek

Thanks @pthomas745, @AnOldUR and @fstop32 for the feedback. The biggest issue I have with this liquid change is being able to find Rhomar in my area. I did check for bulging and corrosion in the fall and didn't see any evidence of it. I'll keep looking...

KatieP

Looking for advice: I am considering simply decommissioning the Alde system altogether on my 2018 T@b 2018, which I bought in 2023. We've enjoyed the camper and are looking forward to a new season. However, the previous owner didn't tell me about how she maintained the Alde, but it seems its time to change the fluid. The problem is the quote for doing it by the local dealer: It's a heart-stopper.

Has anyone just gone without heat and hot water, draining the Alde of all fluid and water, and letting it sit empty and unused? I'm guessing there would be no corrosion if it's empty. Or am I inviting more trouble?

I would still use the fresh water tank and plumbing system separate from the Alde. We don't camp in the winter and I'm fine with washing my dishes with hot water from the tea kettle.

The local dealer quoted $620 for four hours labor to flush the system and replace the fluid, with $120 for four gallons of glycol fluid. In addition, they want a hefty fee for dewinterizing the plumbing, sanitizing the water system, checking the propane lines, cleaning the air conditioner, and so . A total of nearly $1500 for all this work. I'm fairly handy, have done winterizing/dewinterizing and maintenance on previous camper trailers, but I'm not up to changing the Alde fluid myself.

What do you think? Hope to hear from someone about this issue. And thanks so much for everyone's info--I so appreciate it because it helped me generate some useful questions and pointed me to even more ideas.

Denny16

We have a 2018 TaB 400 and have only changed the glycol fluid per nüCamp’s recommendation, and have never had an issue with the Alde system.  It is a great heat source on a cold morning, here on t(e Pacifc North Coast.  You can use the hot water without circulating the fluid to heat the trailer.  You can also just leave it off and not use it.  

I would get the fluid changed, sounds like the. 4-hr charge is to change out the old Century fluid, which requires several flushing with water, and the new Rhomar fluid.  This would be a one time high maintenance charge.  Future changes would only require draining the fluid and adding new fluid every two or years (nüCamp/Alde recommends every two years.  The cost for this service is normally the cost of the fluid plus about one hour labor. 

Or you could just change out the fluid with some new Century Fluid, and either occasionally use it, or then lay up the system and not use it.  I would not leave it drained of fluid, this would allow more oxygen into the system and could cause future issues.  

We just use the hot water part of the Alde, leaving the heat turned off on the control panel, and once a month run the pump,circulation feature on the control panel maintenance menu, or just run the heat for an hour to circulate the fluid, to help maintain fresh fluid in the system.  

You could also just not use it, but I would not completely drain the system of glycol, or leave the old fluid in it.  You can drain the hot water tank and bypass it if you do not want to heat water.  You can still use the Alde for occasional heat with the water tank drained.  

Sounds like you would be comfortable taking care of de-winterizing the water system, which is easy on the 2018 tab with its low point drain system.  The unofficial Tab400 manual covers this process for the 2018/2019 TaB400, and is available for download on this forum.  Or to have the trailer’s gas and brake systems checked, we used a local general trailer service shop, not an RV dealer, as the labor is normally less.  

Cheers

Sharon_is_SAM

@KatieP - the Alde is a highlight of the nuCamp line.  I understand the cost issue, but, down the road, you will be able to sell your TaB a lot easier if you maintain the system.  Leaving the Alde empty of glycol will result in corrosion and if you ruin the Alde it is a cost of $2000-$3,000 to replace the system.  

Try another dealer.  Some Airstream dealers will do the Alde work. Another less ideal idea is to just drain it and refill with the same glycol.  You can do that annually and that will at least give you fresh glycol with fresh corrosion protection.  

DanWeitzel

We have a 2016 T@B QMax model (no bath), that said I changed my Alde fluid myself and it only takes 2 gals.  Here are some things to check: how many convectors does your trailer have?  There will be two at the back of the trailer.  Two more under the passinger side bench, and possibly two more under the driver side bench.  Ours only has the two in the back & two under the passinger bench.  You want to check each of these for bulging where the rubber hose attaches to the convector.  No bulging in a good thing.  Assuming no bulging, you can drain/refill the Alde system yourself following instruction on this discussion: https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/164389#Comment_164389.  I used the shop vac method with good results, others have made the pump setup.  Either way this will cost you about $30/ gal of TF1 (the yellow stuff) max three gallons.  You DO NOT have to change to the Romar (blue stuff) there appears to be no advantage to the new stuff.  Mine only required two gallons and I completely emptied my system, removing all the convectors to repair the bulging problems.  This dealer is just ripping you off.