Single Black & Gray Water Drain Setup

Dalehelman

I considered using that item but ruled it out. My approach only requires cutting the gray water drain on the trailer. Everything else bolts and glued together. Clearing the frame is the problem 

Homebodyatheart

@Ericnliz....party at Dale and Sandi's! Whoo hoo!  I'm eager to show off what I've done to Ms L@dybug!

jkjenn

Michigan_Mike said:

I just saw this piece mounted on trailers at the factory recently and am curious as to whether anyone here has installed one yet?   They are a bit spendy, going for around $40 right now on eTrailer.   I'm tempted to try one out but thought I'd toss it out for discussion, get some thoughts and insight on installing one to ensure proper clearance and adaptation to the T@B units.  

And yeah I know, no guts, no glory!   

If it works, seems well worth the $40 to me. I am sometimes at dump facilities where there is no connection to rinse, so it would be nice to be able to at least use the grey water to rinse.

Pop-T@B

Mike,  If you were starting off fresh with no fittings installed on the tanks, I think this would work great. But with the fitting already installed on the T@B this would be very hard to get it to work. I looked very long and hard at this valve before I did mine, and I decided  not to use it. Mike I have a set of parts to do the set up like I did on mine, I picked them up last year to do Verna's, I see from the post she has already done it. If you are in the area call me and stop in and we can get yours fixed up.

Verna

Sorry, POP-T@B. Life got in the way last fall and I could not get two hours east of here......

Pop-T@B

no problem, just glad you got it done, it makes things so much easier when dumping the tanks.

Verna

Pop-T@B said:

no problem, just glad you got it done, it makes things so much easier when dumping the tanks.

With as much as I empty the tanks in the winter, it certainly simplifies the process. Thanks for being understanding. 

ericnliz

@Dalehelman, Thank you, thank you! It was nice getting together with @Homebodyatheart & seeing @JerryandVicki as well. Let the good times roll. 

Homebodyatheart

@Dalehelman thank you again for the mod! It was fun spending relaxing(sort of) time together! We made it home safe and sound and Bug's all put away for the night with minimal bloodshed (sorry Mr Homebody!). No way though we would want to set up camp in the dark! I'm even getting a bit better backing up and even drove the freeway today! I felt comfortable driving home, too! 

Dalehelman

Here is a list of all the parts needed. You will be reusing both gate valves. Once you have all of the parts assembly is fairly straightforward from the above pictures.  The 22 1/2* elbow address's the frame clearance issue. The rubber elbow is not a perfect fit but that is why it is rubber. Once completed the discharge end is know lower than the original gray water discharge. I have found that the prices  for the RV parts are are cheaper at my local RV parts store.

3" abs 22 1/2 degree elbow HD  $9.24 AMZN  $7.68

3" abs 90 degree elbow with an 1 1/2 take out  HD   $12.43

  (3 in. x 3 in. x 1-1/2 in. ABS DWV 90 Degree Hub x Hub x Hub Elbow with Low Heel)

1 1/2" rubber elbow with hose clamps HD  $6.84
2ea. 3"  diameter x 2" wide black abs pipe. HD   $7.75 for 2’
Small can of abs cement  HD   $4.88 8oz AMZN  $3.55 4oz

Total $41.14     $35.36 (w/ 2 HD)

RV PARTS STORE (For the gate valves)

3" bayonet slip fit   AMZN   $6.88
3" bristol spigot end AMZN   $7.75
1 1/2 Bristol spigot end AMZN   $5.06

    Total $19.69

Total for parts     $60.83 Total $55.05

---------------------------------------------------------------

Michigan_Mike

Pop-T@B said:

Mike,  If you were starting off fresh with no fittings installed on the tanks, I think this would work great. But with the fitting already installed on the T@B this would be very hard to get it to work. I looked very long and hard at this valve before I did mine, and I decided  not to use it. Mike I have a set of parts to do the set up like I did on mine, I picked them up last year to do Verna's, I see from the post she has already done it. If you are in the area call me and stop in and we can get yours fixed up.

Thanks Shawn, much appreciated!  I was wondering about that and whether or not things would align with the current system and as I've said before, I'm not comfortable just heading off into no-man's land (if you will), cutting existing pipe and trying to reinvent the wheel.  I do want to convert to a single discharge pipe on the trailer and might take you up on your offer sometime in the future.

And Dale, thanks for posting up your mod here too as the photos are valuable and definitely help, as does your listing of material used....  Well done!  

Thanks again!  

ericnliz

@Michigan_Mike, Just a follow-up on the Valtera install. Both @Dalehelman, and @Pop-T@B are in like mind as to making a "mod" to an existing system.....probably not. A new install, yes, aftermarket, not so much.

ScottG

I got a chance to take a quick peek under the T@B this weekend. The only way I could see installing the Valtera and still clearing the frame involved either a) constructing compound bends to lower the outlets of both drains; or b) tipping the entire Valtera unit forward and off-level. Neither seems like a good idea, and both are far less elegant than either Pop-T@B's or Dalehelman's solutions.

Dalehelman

Michigan_Mike said:

I just saw this piece mounted on trailers at the factory recently and am curious as to whether anyone here has installed one yet?   They are a bit spendy, going for around $40 right now on eTrailer.   I'm tempted to try one out but thought I'd toss it out for discussion, get some thoughts and insight on installing one to ensure proper clearance and adaptation to the T@B units.  

And yeah I know, no guts, no glory!   

By using the other method you are able to reuse both gate valves as well.

Runtarooti

@Dalehelman, really interested in this mod. What is the ground clearance, at the lowest point of this mod?  Is it an improvement or is there a height compromise in having a single drain?

Dalehelman

Runtarooti said:

@Dalehelman, really interested in this mod. What is the ground clearance, at the lowest point of this mod?  Is it an improvement or is there a height compromise in having a single drain?

It is no lower than the original gray water discharge point. It is closer to the axel which is better for clearance. We have over 8000 miles all over the country no issues.

Ratkity

@Michigan_Mike, the Valtera seems to be on the new camper of mine. It's a bit of a reach to get to the gray valve gate (black handle and cap are easy to reach). It doesn't seem unduly low at all.

Is there a spray lubricant I can use to make the gray gate slide easier and not disrupt the seal? The black one has normal amount of effort to open.

Michigan_Mike

Ratkity said:

@Michigan_Mike, the Valtera seems to be on the new camper of mine. It's a bit of a reach to get to the gray valve gate (black handle and cap are easy to reach). It doesn't seem unduly low at all.

Is there a spray lubricant I can use to make the gray gate slide easier and not disrupt the seal? The black one has normal amount of effort to open.

This is what you're looking for and just might be the ticket.

http://rvlife.com/techtipsavoiding-sticky-valves/

Michigan_Mike

Dalehelman said:

Michigan_Mike said:

I just saw this piece mounted on trailers at the factory recently and am curious as to whether anyone here has installed one yet?   They are a bit spendy, going for around $40 right now on eTrailer.   I'm tempted to try one out but thought I'd toss it out for discussion, get some thoughts and insight on installing one to ensure proper clearance and adaptation to the T@B units.  

And yeah I know, no guts, no glory!   

By using the other method you are able to reuse both gate valves as well.

Thanks Dale!  I like your set up and do like the gray valve in the up position as it makes access easier.

dsatwork

Michigan_Mike said:

Ratkity said:

@Michigan_Mike, the Valtera seems to be on the new camper of mine. It's a bit of a reach to get to the gray valve gate (black handle and cap are easy to reach). It doesn't seem unduly low at all.

Is there a spray lubricant I can use to make the gray gate slide easier and not disrupt the seal? The black one has normal amount of effort to open.

This is what you're looking for and just might be the ticket.

http://rvlife.com/techtipsavoiding-sticky-valves/

I always keep a can of silicone spray in my "garage" (area under the passenger side seat). One more reason to make sure it should stay there.

Dalehelman

Michigan_Mike said:

Dalehelman said:

Michigan_Mike said:

I just saw this piece mounted on trailers at the factory recently and am curious as to whether anyone here has installed one yet?   They are a bit spendy, going for around $40 right now on eTrailer.   I'm tempted to try one out but thought I'd toss it out for discussion, get some thoughts and insight on installing one to ensure proper clearance and adaptation to the T@B units.  

And yeah I know, no guts, no glory!   

By using the other method you are able to reuse both gate valves as well.

Thanks Dale!  I like your set up and do like the gray valve in the up position as it makes access easier.

The up position is not always  attainable. It depends on how NuCamp glues on the elbow at the bottom of the tank. If it is  parallel to the frame the GW valve may have to be in the nine o'clock position. If the elbow is more parallel with the trailer the 12 o'clock position works. 

Ratkity

Michigan_Mike said:

Ratkity said:

@Michigan_Mike, the Valtera seems to be on the new camper of mine. It's a bit of a reach to get to the gray valve gate (black handle and cap are easy to reach). It doesn't seem unduly low at all.

Is there a spray lubricant I can use to make the gray gate slide easier and not disrupt the seal? The black one has normal amount of effort to open.

This is what you're looking for and just might be the ticket.

http://rvlife.com/techtipsavoiding-sticky-valves/

PERFECT! Not going to do the Zerk fitting though. I have silicone spray. I wonder if lithium grease would work? I have spray lithium grease (as well as in the tube, but since black water goes through the main outgoing tube, I don't want to stick my hand in there - although I haven't used the black tank yet). That site also has a nice explanation on how to replace the rod and handle if it should ever get broken. I'd hate to have to replace the seals at a later time!! Since this is technically the "break in" period, maybe once will be magic and the fix will be a distant memory!

ericnliz

@Ratkity, I used a thin film of dielectric grease on mine & works great. Available at almost all auto parts stores. Also use it on both ends of the seven pin connector & shore power cord as well. Prevents corrosion!

Ratkity

ericnliz said:

@Ratkity, I used a thin film of dielectric grease on mine & works great. Available at almost all auto parts stores. Also use it on both ends of the seven pin connector & shore power cord as well. Prevents corrosion!

I have some of that too. Come to think of it.. I have a few too many tools.... NAH.. never too many!!

ericnliz

@Ratkity, Yer right there, just need  a bigger place to keep 'em!

Ratkity

ericnliz said:

@Ratkity, Yer right there, just need  a bigger place to keep 'em!

I have a full basement. The problem is .. well, I live alone. Right now there's a chainsaw in the middle of my den and a generator around the corner - various tools in different places. They all have real homes in the basement in a NICE Craftsman tool box, but they like being upstairs for some reason.

ericnliz

HARVEY!!!! 

Ratkity

ericnliz said:

HARVEY!!!! 

*GASP*

And then I caught him doing THIS!!! AGAIN! Camper refrigerator raid!

ericnliz

  

Michigan_Mike

I read somewhere on an RV forum where some folks add a cup or more of vegetable oil in their BW tank to keep the seal lubricated.  Supposedly it works, but I'll wait on that one.