What battery should I upgrade to?

Rlethbri

I have a 2016 Outback with the given battery in the front box. I've found out when traveling and having the battery run the fridge, when we stop to camp the battery can't keep up and is quite low for the night. I do have a Zamp 40 watt but most the time when we stop it's getting dark.  I now put the Zamp on the roof of the TV so while we drive it's getting some additional power. 

What battery should I upgrade too and will it fit in the front box? 

Nomad

If you switch to running the fridge from battery to propane - yes I know, some think it's not ok but There's a safety valve if it blows out and as I mentioned in another thread, in the last month I've only had one blowout while traveling but two while sitting still camped - I now arrive with full battery and only have to deploy my solar for stays of more than two days - And that's with a single Group-24 battery.

Rlethbri

Thanks PXL, our propane seems to go out more often than not while driving. Not sure why but it does. We will try again next time and let you know. 

Tabaz

In transit, i run the fridge on "battery" which is powered by the TV battery. Once on site, my TAB battery is fully charged and ready for the night. However, I always switch the fridge to propane after leveling the TAB. I have a Group 27 in my Outback tub with plenty of room for a larger Group 30. The Group 27 has so far proved more than adequate.

Nomad

How one's battery is charged while traveling will vary depending on the output of one's alternator. My Jeep has a large alternator and does charge above what the fridge draws but will only give a percentage bump over what I start with. Never a "fully charged" battery upon arrival. Since it's so dependent on alternator output, everyone's mileage will vary.

Rlethbri

Yeah, I have a Toytoa FJ Crusier and it doesn't seem to keep up with the draw on the fridge while driving. However, we have charged our battery during the night thru the car while at camp if everything else fails. If we can't 

Nomad

Since I rarely, rarely have hookups, I'm never starting with a topped off battery so topping off enroute is a great thing. If you camp with hookups, you'd be starting with a full battery and if your alternator is large enough could end up at your new location with an almost full battery so no big deal. For me it's a big deal.

rfuss928

I have had very good results with Optima Blue Top batteries.  I fit a D31M in the original group 27 box with no trouble. 

Optima blue top batteries (spiral AGM construction) are know for higher power density, extreme vibration resistance, significantly longer life and zero maintenance compared to flooded lead acid batteries.  They are a premium battery with a premium price but in the long run are less expensive to own because of their long life.  These were the batteries of choice in industrial/commercial power back up systems I worked on.

I am on my fifth camping season with two D31M batteries and they continue to perform as new.  I have not even seen them since I screwed the cases shut in 2011.

lapowers57

Immediately upon receiving my T@B I replaced the supplied battery with a Trojan group 25 100 AH battery (40% more AHs then the supplied battery) and I have 160 watt Zamp pannels.  This battery fits in the stock battery box on my Max S so no mods were needed.  So far this has proven very good even when we watch a movie at night.  I have been blessed with good weather on my trips but I am waiting to see how this works when it is cloudy or rainy for a few days.  Key to this working is running the Fridge on propane when camping and having a TV with an alternator that can keep up with the fridge while driving.   

wizard1880

I'm also in the camp with 2 golf cart batteries.  We have a clamshell so 12v is our only option with the fridge.

In a 2 night camping trip with the fridge always on, watching a movie and even charging our cell phones with a 12v charger, we ended up with 60% charge left at the trip end.  We weren't using the heat but we're using hot water on propane.  I consider 2 days the max or I need to connect a generator.

irvingj

When we traveled with our T@B, we were able to run the fridge on propane. At first (didn't know any better) we tried battery, but we didn't have a charge line from the tow vehicle (only a "flat four" connector at the time), so that battery didn't last long; the heating element in the fridge gobbles up a LOT of power on 12VDC.

Agree with rfuss- I eventually changed the battery, using a blue-top Optima. Yes, it was expensive. Yes, it holds a charge for months when disconnected, and packs quite a bit of power. For batteries, I'm convinced AGM is the way to go, and Optima seems to be one of the better ones.

planobenz

My Sofitel has a Lithium-ion 120 ah battery.  It will hold almost a 100% charge for 2000 cycles and drops to 80% after (mfg. specs).  The genset/plug-in will charge it back in about an hour. Not sure how long it will take driving down the road.  So, I have little need for solar. The fridge is the latest 2-way only (skipped the propane problems and ugly outside vents) that runs at 3 ah.  Untested, I should be able to get 3-4 days on battery only.

I have used this approach on my Sprinter class B rig before with great success. The Sprinter had an inverter pounding on the battery also. Not sure if I will use an inverter in the T@B. The morning Keurig coffee maker will run on the genset as it charges the battery back up. So all of us will get a charge in the morning!

gulfarea

planobenz, what type of charger do you use for the Lithium-ion battery. I am VERY used to using them but not in my RV, & know that a special charger should be used. I have not heard of anyone using them in Rvs yet but with the correct charger might be a great option. The normal chargers in Rvs will make them burn! Art

planobenz

It's plug and play with the T@B.  The converter puts out 13.5 V at 30 amps.  The Lithium battery can handle 14.5 V at 50 amps. So, you can charge higher and faster with a Lithium-ion specific charger.  The T@B charger will do the job for me.

kybob

Plano Benz, can you use a normal battery tender for winter storage with the lithium ion battery? Also, where did you purchase your's? Thanks!

jkjenn

planobenz said:

My Sofitel has a Lithium-ion 120 ah battery.  It will hold almost a 100% charge for 2000 cycles and drops to 80% after (mfg. specs).  The genset/plug-in will charge it back in about an hour. Not sure how long it will take driving down the road.  So, I have little need for solar. The fridge is the latest 2-way only (skipped the propane problems and ugly outside vents) that runs at 3 ah.  Untested, I should be able to get 3-4 days on battery only.

I have used this approach on my Sprinter class B rig before with great success. The Sprinter had an inverter pounding on the battery also. Not sure if I will use an inverter in the T@B. The morning Keurig coffee maker will run on the genset as it charges the battery back up. So all of us will get a charge in the morning!

That must have cost about $1,500 for the battery, alone.

jkjenn

T@Bnero said:

I think the prices I have been looking at for this are a lot better than that now for good American made or for MasterVolt Li battery

For Lithium Ion? Where? West Marine has the 180 ah for $3,659.99. If you could find batteries over 100 ah under $1,000, it could be worth considering.

AldebaranJill

I have a Trojan SCS150, that's kept healthy by a Noco Genius Charger (plugged in all the time) and know exactly how many amps I put in and take out via a Trimetric Battery meter. (Good source of advice on batteries: https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/). Knowing what the state of charge is (via measuring specific gravity) and what you're using, helps you get the most out of whatever battery you use. I killed many batteries before I finally got this system set up right.

Trojan SCS150 Data Sheet:
http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/SCS150_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf

(Note the Noco Genius Charger does have a Lithium setting)

TulsaTime

Has anybody been able to greatly increase the battery capacity to the front rounded box?  I'd like to fit 2 Trojan T105's in there.  Another alternative would be to replace the entire box with one spanning the entire width.

Verna

Welcome.

Many of us have. If you try a search on "golf cart" (golf cart batteries), you'll find a lot of information on how others have tackled this project. 

(Search box in the upper right corner of this page.)

Cyclonic

@TulsaTime, I have merged your question with this very recent topic on the same subject.  Lots of excellent information in here that should be of help.

Carolyn

I have a 2014 CS and need to replace the original battery. We rarely boondock but would like the ability to use the Alde and lights for a night if necessary. I like what I have read about the blue top Optima but am a little confused as to which ( the 31 or 34) would best suit our needs as outlined. Also, are the Optima batteries maintenance free or do you need to check wate level? Does one use a regular battery tender in the winter? Thanks for any suggestions.

AldebaranJill

Both are listed as maintenance free, no checking water.

I use battery tender all year round.

User Manual: http://d26maze4pb6to3.cloudfront.net/optimabatteries/1213/4333/7097/Battery_User_Guide.pdf

I would buy the highest AH (Amp Hour) that would fit in the space available. 

irvingj

Ditto above; I installed a D34M in our T@B and was very pleased with how long it will hold a charge while sitting. It also fit into the plastic battery box with no modifications (2004 DM TAB).

Nomad

So, what do these on the side of that Optima battery mean? ... MCA, CCA, RC ... AH is AmpHours I'd guess and if you're pulling just 1 amp you can get 55 hours.

Nomad

Ok, figured out CCA - Cold Cranking :-)

AldebaranJill

PXLated said:

So, what do these on the side of that Optima battery mean? ... MCA, CCA, RC ... AH is AmpHours I'd guess and if you're pulling just 1 amp you can get 55 hours.

AH (Amp Hours) is always specified at a certain discharge rate. Most of the AH ratings are C2

Here's an example for my battery:

AldebaranJill

Another way to view the relationship between discharge current and time:

AldebaranJill

@PXLated - the actual AH depends on th current draw. The published AH usually is at 20 Amps, I believe. So at 20 Amps, my battery will have 100 AH, but at 5 Amps it would have 1000 AH (in theory). Each battery would have a different slope, but I wanted to show that it's not a fixed number.

ColoradoJon

When comparing batteries you always compare the 20 hour rate.  It is usually listed as AH.  This is the standard capacity comparison number.  For RV use cold cranking amps (CCA) should be ignored.  We don't start engines with our campers, we use them as long term power sources

Hybrid marine batteries are ok to use but you really want a true deep cycle battery like the Trojan SCS150 or dual 6V golf cart batteries.

LauraRey

I learn SO much from this forum.  Thank you.