I was at a local trailer supply co yesterday asking about the large DeeZee plastic tongue tool box they had on display. When I asked if they would measure the inside dimensions for me, and said I wanted to put my propane tank inside, the salesman let me know that it is illegal and not to "code". He told me that propane must be stored in an open shroud, so if there's a leak, there's not an explosion. So I'm back to the plan to repair my plastic cover. Just FYI to anyone thinking the same thing.
Lazuli Bunting from Utah 2005 Dutchman T@B & 2010 Toyota 4Runner
If you proved large vent holes below the propane tank to allow it to escape out the bottom, should a leak ocur, you should be okay. Propane is heavier than air, so it will escape through the lowest point.
Look at the diamond plate tongue box in the teardrop store. It is made similar to the original front plastic cover, but it is aluminum diamond plate, with adequate ventilate to be able to enclose both the batter and the propane tank. As long as adequate ventilation is provided, both propane and battery are allowed in the box.
Verna, Columbus, IN 2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B” Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
Well, to update my previous post where I whined about my plastic LP cover ripping to shreds in high winds, I gulped and bought the diamond plate cover and recently had it installed. It is very light, not much heavier than the plastic version, and appears to be very sturdy. It has a solid bottom, unlike the plastic version. It looks very nice indeed, since it matches the diamond plate section on the front of the trailer.
Mine is cracked on both sides at the bolts as well. My T@B is a 2005, so I thought it was just normal aging/wear and tear. I was planning to take it off and try to reinforce the broken areas with fiberglass tape and resin. Anybody tried this, or other types of patching materials? Hearing about the cover flying apart on the road sounds bad.
I just recently tried this with fiberglass resin to no avail. The plastic of the cover (and of the fender trim that I attempted to repair) does not bond with fiberglass. With my 2004 t@b, I went through the "flying apart on the road" scenario and found someone nearby that sold me a new original cover. Now, with my 2008 t@da, the cover is cracked and I'm looking into using the internal frame and purchasing sheet diamond plating to bend for a new cover. It comes in white, which is my preference since the t@da doesn't have a silver diamond plate rock guard.
Here's what we did to fix it, if anyone is interested. It is very solid now. I hope it lasts.
We used a durable woven fabric tape intended to fix RV roofs and JB Weld clear 2-part epoxy. The entire cover was removed from the tongue. When we removed it, we discovered that one of the steel bracket "legs" was broken at the bend, so we had to weld that. That was a big reason the whole cover was wobbly. We couldn't see the break until then, it was hidden by the battery case.
We smeared a coat of JB weld on the plastic, set the precut shaped pieces of fabric into wet glue, then smeared a thicker layer of glue using a Bondo spatula over the top until the fabric was completely covered and saturated. We did this on the outside bottom on Saturday, and then on the inside on Sunday. So the cracked pieces were sandwiched with patches.
We used some of the original holes to attach the case back to the tongue, but not all of them. We drilled out the original holes in the tongue steel a little bigger, and used new bolts, washers with a neoprene layer and lock nuts instead of the original self-tapping screws. Where the plastic was so cracked we were concerned about weakening the patches, we drilled new holes, but that was only the 2 closest to the trailer.
I like the look of my original tongue box and it isn't cracking but the paint is peeling off in several different spots. One day it was fine, a couple of weeks later, I went back to the storage unit to take some stuff and I found all the peeling paint spots.
I've decided to take if off and buy a diamond plated tongue box instead. I've already ordered one and I'm having someone put it on in July.
@Tardisman@Sandra - I was looking for a way to fill the gap between the cover and wall of trailer (I park under pine trees) and as I was moving the cover, discovered the cracks you all have found.
Two questions:
1) I was contemplating hinging the cover to the trailer wall, to block the gap and change rotation point of lid. I was going to purchase a long hinge that runs the entire length, bolt to top and to trailer wall. Adding this would stabilize the entire bin, not sure how much displacement is causing stress fractures. Would this help the cracking issue?
2) Is there any kind of plastic welding epoxy that people have used to fix existing cracks?
I have made many mods to our T@B with very good success. Installing a piano hinge is not something I would do. First that is a lot of holes to drill if it doesn't work. If you want to give it a try. Use some double stick first. I would also try to find a one piece plastic hinge and use 3M double stick auto trim tape. Just my thoughts. If I had your problem I would use some sort of foam material to fill the gap when parked and remove it for travel.
@Dalehelman - Yup, was going to mock up with tape before holes. In reviewing all the comments and photos on this thread, I now realize my version of T@B (2013) doesn't have the inner metal frame support. The tub is only fastened at the bottom, sandwitched under a grey plastic piece. With no bracing, it will vibrate and fail again it seems. I've called the dealer, since I had an extended warranty, and at first they said the tub isn't covered, and they have never heard of this issue. I told them it was in this forum. They called back and said they'd give me a new tub. But my question is, what's the best mod I can do to prevent future cracking? Stop the vibration by whatever means necessary, right?
2013 MAXX T@B towed by a 2015 Volvo S60 5 CYL AWD Sedan Seattle, WA
Yes Apache, just hooked up the trailer and will go early tomorrow morning. I've got photos of the framework from this thread. The dealer installs the tub, right? So they should have the framework?
2013 MAXX T@B towed by a 2015 Volvo S60 5 CYL AWD Sedan Seattle, WA
Yes Apache, just hooked up the trailer and will go early tomorrow morning. I've got photos of the framework from this thread. The dealer installs the tub, right? So they should have the framework?
Maybe. On my 2015, the it's clear that the framework would need to installed at the same time as the steel battery/propane cradle and the plastic cover. To do otherwise would require dismantling and reinstalling the whole assembly, as they are all bolted/riveted together.
That doesn't mean that the framework isn't a separate part from the cover. The dealer may or may not have it at the ready (or be prepared to install it).
Dealer has replaced the tub (under my extended warranty), and new tub has metal braces. Was not simple procedure, took over two hours. However, there are at least 3 forum reports of tubs with metal braces having cracks at screw holes.
2013 MAXX T@B towed by a 2015 Volvo S60 5 CYL AWD Sedan Seattle, WA
I fabricated my brackets with 1/8" x 1/2" steel from the hardware store. I have put about 5,000 miles on with the new brackets and have had no more problems. I shared my solution with a contact at the TAB factory but never got a response. Seems like they should add this type of lateral support to the standard design.
The newer versions have the metal frame support and there have been no complaints that I am aware of with the newer tubs.
@Verna - This thread contains people who have had cracks with new tubs. @Tardisman has a fix that he's proven works. It should be forwarded to factory. Thanks @Tardisman - Am adding my supports to my new cover today.
2013 MAXX T@B towed by a 2015 Volvo S60 5 CYL AWD Sedan Seattle, WA
Not as heavy duty as @Tardisman (I used aluminum for bracing material) - but should do the trick, it does really stiffen up the LP/Battery cover lateral motion. The hardest part is tightening the screw/nut on the cover brace, not much room for fingers or tools, but it's do-able.
Note to install my new cover, they had to relocate the LP hose connection over to the left. There's about an inch of clearance between the hose and the new support brace.
AldebsranJill I also installed braces very similar to yours. I used aluminum also. After several months I noticed the one had cracked and broken. To date I have not replaced them and have not seen cracks in the tub.
Dalehelman, the aluminum becomes brittle when bent (steel also does but not as much). I would suggest using a gas soldering torch to heat the metal before bending. Get it good and hot. You can also heat it after bending to "aneal" the metal and re-strengthen.
Tradesman, great video that shows the real culprit here -- pretty dramatic!
Before we sold our T@B :( I removed the cover for some other repairs and did see that there were some small cracks in the bottom attaching flange. Also replaced original way-too-long steel self-tappers (badly rusted, one snapped off) with ss screws of only 1/2" long, along with ss fender washers. Seemed quite secure.
Surprised I didn't have more damage; original owner had towed it behind a Subaru Outback all the way to AK and back; I used my VW Jetta TDI wagon for towing. Interestingly, I also installed Air Tabs across the top of the roof; I'm guessing they must have helped to reduce turbulence. Tried to post pic, but file's too big (daughter's camera).
Yes, on the Jetta, four on each side of the radio antenna.
Mileage: Not sure; it seems that the turbulence I now have comes up from the bottom, and I have a trailer hitch (Hidden Hitch)-- so there's not really any convenient way to alleviate that (for instance, more Air Tabs on the underside).
Driving around this time of year, I often see leaves rise up just outside my rear window, swirl around a bit, and then, if they get up above the edge of the roof, shoot to the rear. So I know the Air Tabs are doing their job, at least on the top edge of the roof. Mileage..? Unfortunately, I don't know that I saw any measurable difference, but I like to think they certainly don't hurt, and most likely help.
Just wish I could figure a way to put them on the underside of the rear!
Comments
2005 Dutchman T@B & 2010 Toyota 4Runner
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
We used a durable woven fabric tape intended to fix RV roofs and JB Weld clear 2-part epoxy. The entire cover was removed from the tongue. When we removed it, we discovered that one of the steel bracket "legs" was broken at the bend, so we had to weld that. That was a big reason the whole cover was wobbly. We couldn't see the break until then, it was hidden by the battery case.
We smeared a coat of JB weld on the plastic, set the precut shaped pieces of fabric into wet glue, then smeared a thicker layer of glue using a Bondo spatula over the top until the fabric was completely covered and saturated. We did this on the outside bottom on Saturday, and then on the inside on Sunday. So the cracked pieces were sandwiched with patches.
We used some of the original holes to attach the case back to the tongue, but not all of them. We drilled out the original holes in the tongue steel a little bigger, and used new bolts, washers with a neoprene layer and lock nuts instead of the original self-tapping screws. Where the plastic was so cracked we were concerned about weakening the patches, we drilled new holes, but that was only the 2 closest to the trailer.
Reinstalled it's MUCH more solid and stable.
2005 Dutchman T@B & 2010 Toyota 4Runner
I've decided to take if off and buy a diamond plated tongue box instead. I've already ordered one and I'm having someone put it on in July.
Two questions:
1) I was contemplating hinging the cover to the trailer wall, to block the gap and change rotation point of lid. I was going to purchase a long hinge that runs the entire length, bolt to top and to trailer wall. Adding this would stabilize the entire bin, not sure how much displacement is causing stress fractures. Would this help the cracking issue?
2) Is there any kind of plastic welding epoxy that people have used to fix existing cracks?
Seattle, WA
Seattle, WA
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
Seattle, WA
That doesn't mean that the framework isn't a separate part from the cover. The dealer may or may not have it at the ready (or be prepared to install it).
Seattle, WA
Seattle, WA
Seattle, WA
Note to install my new cover, they had to relocate the LP hose connection over to the left. There's about an inch of clearance between the hose and the new support brace.
This forum is awesome!
Seattle, WA
Seattle, WA
Before we sold our T@B :( I removed the cover for some other repairs and did see that there were some small cracks in the bottom attaching flange. Also replaced original way-too-long steel self-tappers (badly rusted, one snapped off) with ss screws of only 1/2" long, along with ss fender washers. Seemed quite secure.
Surprised I didn't have more damage; original owner had towed it behind a Subaru Outback all the way to AK and back; I used my VW Jetta TDI wagon for towing. Interestingly, I also installed Air Tabs across the top of the roof; I'm guessing they must have helped to reduce turbulence. Tried to post pic, but file's too big (daughter's camera).
Mileage: Not sure; it seems that the turbulence I now have comes up from the bottom, and I have a trailer hitch (Hidden Hitch)-- so there's not really any convenient way to alleviate that (for instance, more Air Tabs on the underside).
Driving around this time of year, I often see leaves rise up just outside my rear window, swirl around a bit, and then, if they get up above the edge of the roof, shoot to the rear. So I know the Air Tabs are doing their job, at least on the top edge of the roof. Mileage..? Unfortunately, I don't know that I saw any measurable difference, but I like to think they certainly don't hurt, and most likely help.
Just wish I could figure a way to put them on the underside of the rear!