ZAMP/GOAL MAINTAINNER

ELK

Hi Scott. The only meter I have is the aftermarket one I have over my sink!

Could it just need distilled water? Have never checked the levels.....

ScottG

@ELK, the battery may need water (particularly given its age) but it's unlikely that is the primary source of your problem. Some diagnostics are in order in order to provide a clear answer.

I'd start by measuring the voltage at the battery with the battery disconnected, and then--if needed--charging the battery directly with an external charger to see if it will take and hold a charge.

If the battery is still good then it's time to start checking connections and fuses.

When you say your plug-in meter "registers nothing" do you mean it shows low or no voltage, or does it not even come on?

ELK

it stays dark

I can shut off the ac and see if it'll register. Step 1. But I'm willing to buy a new battery if I need to. A maintaninnce free battery that will maintain on my GZ maintainner....A girl only has so much time!

Sharon_is_SAM

@Elk, start looking for an AGM battery and make sure your goal zero can charge an AGM .  I am suspect that your battery has given up the ghost - and you are right - only so much time!  It sounds like you were treating your regular wet battery like a maintenance-free battery, so you will like an AGM.  One question, you said that you stored it for winter and you removed the fuse.  Did you leave it on a charger during that time?  

ELK

no. I just took the fuse out and left the GZ attached...but thta was before I knew I needed an inverter on GZ to Zamp.  HOw do I know if the GZ is working?

Sharon_is_SAM

Sounds like it went all winter without a charge.  Which Goal Zero are you using?  

I believe you used an adapter on the GZ to hook up to the Zamp outlet mid-June after being connected to shore power, but charge was unknown before using the GZ.  Did you replace the fuse and then use the meter?

ELK

I only checked the meter after I plugged in the GZ 10 trickle charger, and after I got home from my trip. It was dark. no reading at all.

Also, when asked on Amazon if this solar trickler can be used with an AGM battery, GZ said: Hi , yes, that is exactly what this product is meant for. Please feel free to reach out to our customer support team at 888-794-6250 or support@goalzero.com if you have any additional questions.

GOAL ZERO SUPPORT

Manufacturer · December 6, 2017

Sharon_is_SAM

Did you replace the fuse, then use the meter?

ELK

yes

Sharon_is_SAM

Keep in mind, if you tow your TaB with a dead battery, you will not have any break away brakes in the event of a disconnect.  Do you usually camp with electric hook ups?  If so, you don’t need a huge AGM.  

Sharon_is_SAM

@Elk - does your meter work if the TaB is on shore power?

ScottG

If I'm following this correctly, it sounds like you initially had your Goal Zero hooked up via the Zamp port without the adapter. I'm wondering--I have no idea for sure--if that may have damaged the battery or even perhaps the GZ.

I'm still a proponent of proper diagnostics, but given the age and history of your battery, you're probably due for a new one anyway. If you are more of a gambler than a detective, you might as well just drop a new battery in and see what happens. Of course, size of the gamble goes up when you start talking about AGM or other premium batteries.

But before doing that, did you check the fuses in the 12V fuse panel as well as the one at the battery? There are two fuses in the panel that will also totally disconnect your battery from your camper if they blow. In fact, one of them--probably the lowermost fuse in the panel--protects the converter against a true "reverse polarity"  situation. I'm wondering if that might have blown when you initially had the GZ hooked up without the adapter.

Give it a look and let us know what you find. Good luck!

ELK

I turned off the ac last night and will check to see if there is any juice at all this morning . Given the fact that I have been operating on battery neglect and there was a whole year when I didn;t use the trailer, I am going forward assuming I killed the battery.  But I will check the fuses. My plan is to take the trailer to Interstate Batteries and have them do a free check and go from there. I'll take my GZ with me too and see what they have to say.

I'm usually more of a detective, but electricals, as of this day, are a little scary...!!

thanks for your help! Scott and Sharon!

ELK

DO I need to get a fuse/battery power check light? The kind you touch the fuse with to see if it lights up on both ends? Is there another way to tell if one of the fuses is blown without trying to eyeball each one?

ELK

What do you recommend for a 12V AGM battery from Interstate?

thanks!

ScottG

Usually with blade fuses you can see the break, but a tester helps. Make sure you check both fuses in the panel; they should be the bottom two--one labelled "battery charger" and the other "reverse polarity" (or something similar).

I don't have an AGM battery so I can't help you much there...

VictoriaP

ELK said:

What do you recommend for a 12V AGM battery from Interstate?

thanks!

The loose guideline I was given was a deep cycle with 100 or more amp hours. And obviously it has to fit in your battery/propane tub (preferably in a battery box) so check your measurements. Sales guy at the dealer said it would be from Interstate, but I ended up with a group 27 AGM from Fullriver because that’s what they had in stock at that time that fit. I think the smallest AGM meant for RV use I’ve found from Interstate was a group 31. Bigger capacity is obviously better if you can make it work. I know @Sharon_is_SAM  has something like 150ah. 

Stats from the label on mine:

Deep cycle capacity: 20 hour rate: 105 amp hours
Reserve capacity: @ 25 amps: 175 minutes, @ 75 amps: 43 minutes

ELK

I was going to take the trailer

in and have them install....unless it is super easy to do it myself!!!

VictoriaP

ELK said:

I was going to take the trailer

in and have them install....unless it is super easy to do it myself!!!

If the battery is dead, it’s not a good idea to tow the trailer as you will have no emergency braking capability. If it’s not far to go, that’s one thing, but personally I wouldn’t feel comfortable driving on the freeway like that. I think if it were me in that situation, I’d get someone to help lift the battery out and just take that in, if possible.

pthomas745

Take a picture of your battery connections before you unhook everything.  It is very easy to replace, except it might be difficult to lift in and out of the tub.

ELK

Interstate is literally 5 minutes away...so I'm not worried. I probably drove the hwy with a dead batt...but it was hooked up to my brake controller.  So much to learn!

Bayliss

ELK said:

DO I need to get a fuse/battery power check light? The kind you touch the fuse with to see if it lights up on both ends? Is there another way to tell if one of the fuses is blown without trying to eyeball each one?

@ELK, in response to the above question, I do not know which converter you have, but the recent T@B model years have a red light adjacent to each fuse that will light up if a fuse blows.  If you do not have that, you can use a fuse tester or pull the fuse and visually see if it has blown (which is what you will have to do with the fuse attached at the battery connection.)

ELK

that's handy!! i have a 2015...will check    thanks!

ELK

that's handy!! i have a 2015...will check    thanks!

ScottG said:

But before doing that, did you check the fuses in the 12V fuse panel as well as the one at the battery? There are two fuses in the panel that will also totally disconnect your battery from your camper if they blow. In fact, one of them--probably the lowermost fuse in the panel--protects the converter against a true "reverse polarity"  situation. I'm wondering if that might have blown when you initially had the GZ hooked up without the adapter.

Give it a look and let us know what you find. Good luck!

I'm going to check my fuses...1. the battery fuse; Where will I find the 2 fuses you mention...or what are they "fusing"?   Thanks, Scott

ScottG

@ELK, see my previous post at 2:19pm. The 12V fuse panel is behind the door of the converter unit. On mine it's the bottom two fuses: 30A for the "battery charger" and 40A for the "reverse polarity" protection.

Now that I think about it, I'm pretty sure my 2015 has the red indicator lights Bayless mentioned.

Sharon_is_SAM

@Elk, do you use your battery to boondock?  To run the frig during travel?  How long do you tow before hooking up?  The reason I ask is to help you decide what size battery you need.

Bayliss

@ELK, it is probably obvious, but worth pointing out for anyone checking those red indicator lights next to the fuses.............there must be power getting to the converter (whether from the battery or AC electrical shore power cord connection to the outside of the camper) for the lights to light up and indicate that one or more fuses has blown.  Best of luck to you in resolving this issue.  (Greg)

ELK

Greg....yes, I turned on the house power to the trailer...I don't see any red lights!

Sharon...I don't boondock much...I will be this week for one night...I do tend to run my fridge during travel on the electrical, not battery....but that has been draining my car battery.

Also, I called Interstate and they don;t carry a deep cycle AGM battery...  they suggested a Wet Marine Deep Cycle 24 or 27.  Because I am going off Thursday morning and they will install, I may go with them...and find out if my GZ maintainner is actually working to maintain the new battery.

Sharon_is_SAM

It will not be an AGM battery.  The only way to run the 2 way frig when you tow is on battery.  Some TVs can’t keep up and you will drain your TaB battery.  Try putting frozen jugs of water in your frig after pro-cooling and tow with the frig off.  Good luck!

VictoriaP

ELK said:

Also, I called Interstate and they don;t carry a deep cycle AGM battery...  they suggested a Wet Marine Deep Cycle 24 or 27.  Because I am going off Thursday morning and they will install, I may go with them...and find out if my GZ maintainner is actually working to maintain the new battery.

I absolutely would not go with a wet cell battery unless you know for certain you will maintain it consistently. Otherwise, you’ll be doing this all over again sooner rather than later. A deep cycle AGM is maintenance free (aside from charging, of course), handles both deep cycling and storage without recharging better than lead acid, tolerates cold temps a bit better, and is just an all around better battery for RVs. Virtually any auto parts store will install it for you, I had my last car battery switched out last fall, and there was no charge for installation.

But, that’s me. I’ve killed enough regular batteries over the years to know that I’m bettery off investing the money and the time to research/obtain a solid, maintenance free battery.