Best Of
Re: Does anyone have experience replacing the coupler?
I disagree. I think that the main problem is that people don't understand how these couplers work, so they are frustrating (especially for those of us who have used other types of couplers). The idea is that they won't release if the trailer is pushing forward at all (towards the user and the tow vehicle). As someone who's managed to do that, allowing a trailer to roll forward when the coupler was unlatched (putting a dent in my TV), I can see how this is a good safety feature. I do think that the manufacturer should put a sticker on it or it should ship with stamped metal hang tag explaining how to operate it. Especially since some people are actually making the situation worse by trying to force the lever, damaging the mechanism.CCC said:Over and over again. It is a sorry design.Marceline said:Have you tried pulling the trailer forward, even just a couple of inches, before you uncouple?CCC said:I have been having a terrible time with the factory coupler on my new 2022 320S Boondock. Either bad design or fit. I'm talking about the part that slips over the hitch ball and sort of levers down to lock up. Problem is it never wants to unlock and its taking 15-20 minutes or so fooling with it every time. I'm tempted to just go on of the simple oldfashioned ones bolted on.
If you are chocking your wheels, bumping the trailer forward a couple of inches, and the coupler still won't unlatch I don't know what to suggest other than maybe you have a defective or damaged coupler.
Re: Does anyone have experience replacing the coupler?
Also, before uncoupling the trailer, you need to chock the wheels from the front and back, especially if you are on slope. The trailer will roll in the direction of,the slope, making uncoupling harder. You want a neutral position on the TV ball and trailer hitch, with the 400 this can be challenging sometimes. I push the trailer into position, chock the wheels, and allow truck to go slightly forward, without moving the trailer, to get the ball centered in the hitch. Then it will uncouple with a slight push down on thenTV receiver as you lift the trailer up.
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Re: Hitch pin won't lock into place/latch won't drop without popping back up.
That’s the best technique to unhitch or hitch the trailer, but don’t forget to chock your wheels first before un-hitching the TV.
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Air8 Mystery
@Tabnero, I am taking your comment about your Air8 mysteriously coming on and adding to it. Today, while working in the TAB, and plugged into 120 house current, I turned on the Air8 to a cool setting of 86. When it hit 84.1 it shut off. I turned the Air8 off, the screen went dark. I went inside the house for an hour and when I returned to the TAB the Air8 was running! The screen was dark and the Air8 was off! Well, it continued to run while turned off for 23 minutes until the temperature was 84.1 and shut off.
I do not know what would cause the Air8 to run while turned off, but I do not think it is “some frequency “ turning it on. I will be doing some internet searches and see what I uncover. May call Elwell tomorrow and see what they have to say.
Re: Hitch pin won't lock into place/latch won't drop without popping back up.
I too have a 2021 T@B 320 and use a Reese Rockerball. My technique for hitching is based on the information gleaned from the many posts of those who have had trouble doing so and is quite simple: Position the trailer hitch very slightly aft of the ball and let it slide into place when hithching up. To unhitch, I use the reverse, which is to say that after backing the camper into place, I let the TV move just a bit to the fore.
I have never had to use force either to hitch or unhitch using this technique. In the few times that the clamp did not slide easily into place, the problem was fixed by raising the trailer and slightly repositioning things as noted. I'm a newbie to the trailer world, so far from expert in anything towing related. It may well be that I have a very forgiving hitch on my T@B and my technique is not universally applicable.
Re: Installing a Lagun...
Edison: I haven’t failed, I’ve just found 10,000 ways it won’t work!
Re: Hitch pin won't lock into place/latch won't drop without popping back up.
Yeah, the hitch on these is really temperamental. The first few times out it was so stuck that we bent the latch trying to force it open. Luckily I was able to google the fix (fore aft issue @qhumberd spoke of). Now whenever we hitch or unhitch I always make sure to just give the truck a little gas to get the ball more fore so the coupler releases.
Re: Solar panel not working?
@ColoradoJon, I have a 2018 TaB400 with the older 2-way compressor fridge. The power consumption rating you are showing is what a 3-way fridge would draw running on DC. The 2-way compressor fridge uses far less energy, and a 180-190 watt solar panel should not have any issue keeping the battery charged with the 2-way fridge running at 30-40F (about 2.5 setting). The fridge draws about 3.5 amps when running, but it does Not run continuously.
We had the trailer in NorCal inland at Clear Lake in October, and ran the 2-way fridge on battery during a 3-day power outage whilst we were camping. We didn’t hook up the first night, and ran the fridge on battery, by mid day next day when we finally could get to our reserved spot and hook up, the 190-watt solar had recharged the battery back to 13.x VDC. The next day, the power went out for three days, and we boondocked three more nights and 2.5 days without power, fridge running, solar,panel,fading West under a small tree, somit was it partial shade, and again, by mid day the overnight batter use, fridge, lights and ceiling fan, the battery was back up to greater than 13VDC. This is my real world experience. Not sure what is going on with thenOP’s system.
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cheers
Re: Solar panel not working?
I think that you're overestimating the fridge's power usage. The 2-way fridges draw 3.5-5amps when running. But they don't run constantly. More like 30% of the time.ColoradoJon said:A 180 watt panel will produce, at its very best and in optimal conditions, just under 13 amps per hour. That's in clear, bright, super sunny days with no shade or passing clouds. Let's say the panels get 7 hours optimal sunlight - that's only 91 amps during light hours. The first screen shot is showing a yield of just over 12 amps (280wh / ~23V)
If the fridge uses 5 amps per hour on average, that's 120 amps in a 24 hour period. This is with no other load at all - everything else shut off and no phantom drain.
Just not enough panel to run the fridge and charge the battery.
Re: Solar panel not working?
Something is amiss, the 180-watt solar panel should be more than capable of keeping up with the fridge. Our older two-way which uses a bit more power, when on, and the 190-watt solar panel has no issue keeping up with the drain from the fridge. I would do a rested battery check after the battery has been charged. Then run the fridge with solar panel working, and do a second rested battery test after leaving it run for 4-6 hrs, and see what the change in the reading is, if any? Once the battery is charged, the solar should not be in bulk mode.
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