@morey000 For the 2019 320 133 Watt PV panel: The solar panel wires come through a 4-1/8" hole in the roof where the solar panel termination box fits into, just above the top right corner of the front window. The wires are spliced to the #10 conductors behind the Jenson unit. The solar wires then drop to the floor between the shoilette and kitchen walls into the space behind the toilette and are routed back through the wire way to the driver side bench area below the television where the charge controller is mounted. This is a very challenging wire path for a completed camper with the roof attached. As @Dalehelman would say, "I would rate this mod a 5 difficulty out of 5. IMHO" even for a seasoned wire installer.
When we first purchased our 320, I was concerned that we might need a sway control, but my dealer told us that we really didn't need one - as long as we loading the camper properly. I'm still really new to pulling the T@B, as I only pulled it on 3 trips so far, but so far, I have only experienced sway at highway speeds when the the tongue weight was too light, and even then just tapping the T@B's brakes instantly stopped it.
But I've been following this thread, and wondered it perhaps I should consider a sway control, just to be safe. So I followed the link in the first post.
But then I saw this on the site: "It is recommended that you remove this sway control unit before backing
up/reversing and before towing in slippery conditions such as on wet,
icy, gravel, or snow-covered roads."
Since roads here are often wet and we often travel on gravel roads, I think I would be better off just being very cautious in how our T@B is loaded, and on keeping my highway speed down a bit.
Okay, I just received a note back from the factory and this is what their recommendations are as follows:
Not any glues...it is 100% the finish on the cabinetry.
when they come off line, the unit is locked up...if the dealer doesn't open it up and let it breathe, the finish will bake into the unit more than it should...first thing to do is to get some coffee beans/grounds in a cup/bowl and set it on a shelf/counter and it will help to eat it up.
I wonder along with the above advice if you also place a couple of boxes of baking soda open in the unit, if that too would help suck up the odors? Interesting stuff for sure!
- = - Soapbox - = - IMHO Wheel Bearings are not coming from the Factory with too little Grease
Many posting in this thread comment " there wasn't much grease in there" or some similar remark about how much new grease had to be added. Those comments imply or suggest we were towing with poorly greased wheel bearings.
I do not believe that is the case. Dexter is a major trailer axle producer and they would not be shipping this many poorly greased axles. Also if lack of grease was an issue our roadways would be full of broken down trailers and the US DOT would be recalling/investigating Dexter.
What is happening, again IMHO.
Dexter builds the wheel hub assembly with pre-greased wheel bearings; most likely packed on a automated assembly line at the original bearing factory.
We user/owners at first "time to replace grease" point then must add grease to: A] Replace all the Wheel Bearing Grease B] Fill for first time the EZ-Lube system with grease.
Our wheel bearings are not low on grease . . . theEZ-Lube channels are just empty.
Light Blue = Original factory Packed Wheel Bearings Red = All the grease we must add the first time the EZ-Lube is used.
Dexter Drawing
Side Note:
Added grease to my hubs this spring at 12-months and 8,000 miles. Old grease looked good and extra new grease was needed to fill the EZ-Lube channels.
My take on this is if you are going to pull and repack @ 12k miles then it is likely no grease will be needed in between. That avoids the risk of greasing the brakes. If the grease didn't leak out, then the bearing still has grease. A person doesn't constantly have to pack automobile bearings at least not since the 1960's, I think a high quality grease should easily make 12k miles on a trailer axle. At 12k tear down, inspect, replace seals, adjust brakes and be good for another 12k.
@JohnDanielsCPA...Someone else posted a picture of that coroplast pulled back and it was awfully dirty as well. I'm thinking I'll peek in there once a year to see how dusty it's gotten. Like you we travel a LOT of dusty roads!
Interesting comment from NuCamp...that the underbelly protector was installed to protect the tank level indicators.
Let us know how the new regulator works. At least at 7,000ft our Alde now purrs...and doesn't emit black smoke (one of my concerns was about running the Alde so rich for so long, but probably less a problem with propane than with other fuels).
@ericnliz, I’d love to, but the Verna-do list is getting quite lengthy at home. As much as I’d love to keep playing, I must now go play adult and work on that list......
Agree that @Normfun's idea is very intriguing (and
way quicker/cheaper). For the shut-off valve, would you use a ball or
needle valve? 1/4-turn ball valves would
be harder to dial in, but seem (at least to me) less prone to leaks. Anyone know if ball valves are OK for long-term use in a "partially open" position?
Well, nuCamp said to bring it to a dealer. Even though the trailer is under warranty, it was my fault. It wasn't defective. Don't be me. Don't use a drill on the spare tire.