Best Of
Re: Driving Self Crazy What If'ing on Next Trailer & Tow Vehicle {long rambling}
The pre 2019 trailers had SeaLevel II tank sensors. I don't think any trailer comes fitted to an owner straight from the factory. An older '400 would be a good place to start a custom project trailer.
We must be in similar positions. My 'CS is a great camping trailer that has served us well for many years. My wife and I are looking for a more travel oriented trailer. For us, the '400 is a sideways move; less accessible storage and smaller galley than the 'CS but gain nice lavatory plus a dinette. Our Casita arrives mid-October.
We must be in similar positions. My 'CS is a great camping trailer that has served us well for many years. My wife and I are looking for a more travel oriented trailer. For us, the '400 is a sideways move; less accessible storage and smaller galley than the 'CS but gain nice lavatory plus a dinette. Our Casita arrives mid-October.
Re: Driving Self Crazy What If'ing on Next Trailer & Tow Vehicle {long rambling}
Interesting post. I've shopped all of the trailers you've listed above but haven't purchased yet. I'm 6' tall and I like standing without bumping my head, so Tab 320 is out. I plan on being on the road for extended amounts of time so I want some extra space. I won't be camping in snow or ice so I don't need a 4 seasons camper.
So it seemed like the Tab 400 was the right one. I went and looked at a Tab 400 and it seemed like a quality camper. The size felt just about right for someone doing extended boondocking.
The Casita looked promising, particularly for the price. Their factory is only an hour away so I drove there to see them in person. Compared to the Tab, the fit and finish are rough. The showroom models had misaligned cabinetry and buttons that did not work. The construction did not inspire any confidence in reliability. I'm sure some will say things like misaligned cabinetry, unfinished edges, etc. are no big deal. But for me, it was enough to say no thanks, I'll pay the premium for Nucamp.
So my search for a Tab 400 Boondock continues.
Re: Dog sets off CO2 detector
Our black lab was doing the same thing - laying against the detector and setting it off. It makes quite a racket!
I solved that by mounting a short piece of baltic birch plywood just below the detector with 2 screws from inside the bench storage area. I didn't know if this was going to be enough to prevent the detector from going off but it has been working good for a year now with no accidental discharges (except from the dog's rear end of course). Inobtrusive and I can easily get to the detector if need be. The black tape, complete with dog hair, is to cut down on the green light that is a bit too bright at night.
I solved that by mounting a short piece of baltic birch plywood just below the detector with 2 screws from inside the bench storage area. I didn't know if this was going to be enough to prevent the detector from going off but it has been working good for a year now with no accidental discharges (except from the dog's rear end of course). Inobtrusive and I can easily get to the detector if need be. The black tape, complete with dog hair, is to cut down on the green light that is a bit too bright at night.
Re: Water Leak from Rain
@Yoshi_TAB
I apologize....I was trying to word it properly so I didn't confuse the issue. The source of my leak was flush water because the seal on top of the cassette didn't seal properly against the flange on the bottom side of the toilet. The seal was not damaged. The root cause was that the cover plate on the sump below the cassette prevented the cassette from securely latching in place.
In your case, I'm guessing that the water is collecting in the same area and following a similar path...but the source is rainwater getting past the access door seal and/or bad caulking around the access door flange.
I apologize....I was trying to word it properly so I didn't confuse the issue. The source of my leak was flush water because the seal on top of the cassette didn't seal properly against the flange on the bottom side of the toilet. The seal was not damaged. The root cause was that the cover plate on the sump below the cassette prevented the cassette from securely latching in place.
In your case, I'm guessing that the water is collecting in the same area and following a similar path...but the source is rainwater getting past the access door seal and/or bad caulking around the access door flange.
Re: Alde Heating
Installed new board pump works fine no voltage when pump is off cont operation and works fine when on. Might look into repairing old board as spare. There are two relays K1 and K2 one of which might bad. Sincerely Tim
How to - removing burr on bottom of damaged tongue jack leg.
Hi everyone, I am new to the forum have been enjoying reading all the posts and learned a lot about our new-to-us 2021 Tab 320ss Boondock trailer.
We bought the trailer used and it had some damage to the bottom of the trailer tongue jack leg where it had been dragged on the pavement without the jockey wheel attached. As a result the jack leg had a large burr all the way around it and the jockey wheel that goes on the bottom of the tongue jack leg would no longer fit into the jockey wheel mount.
The following is the quick repair that I did to clean up the burr with an angle grinder and allow the wheel to re-mount.
First I secured the trailer on flat ground and with appropriate chocks, jack stands or other supports while I removed the tongue jack. I kept mine hooked to my tow vehicle with the e-brake on for support during the repair.
The tongue jack is held in place by 3 bolts, these are threaded directly into the tongue on my 2021 320ss Boondock so no need to hold any nuts on the bottom.
On my 2021 TAB 320ss they are 14mm.
Once I removed these 3 bolts the tongue jack lifts out.
Note the damaged bottom of the jack leg. Ouch. That must have sent some sparks!
The burr on the outside of the leg is too wide for the leg to fit into the wheel socket.
In this case the leg is worn almost down to the hole where the retaining pin goes through, I will probably need to do a more long term repair later. But for now I just need to get that wheel on temporarily so I can move the trailer around my yard.
I clamped the jack leg to a stable surface and used an angle grinder to clean up the burr. Always use appropriate safety gear when using an angle grinder, or if you don't have a grinder you could probably find a local repair shop that would clean it up for you for a few dollars.
Remove the bare minimum of metal to make the surface flush again so it will fit into the jockey wheel mount.
I am zoomed way in on this so the grinding looks rougher than it really is.
Reinstalling the jack leg back in the tongue is the reverse of removal.
Important - The breakaway safety cable runs through the tongue here as shown, I made sure not to pinch the breakaway safety cable when reinserting the jack leg, since that might have prevented the breakaway cable from functioning properly.
I was able to reach through the front of the tongue to hold the cable out of the way without pinching my fingers as I dropped the jack leg back in place.
Reinstalled the 3 bolts, and now the jockey wheel will mount normally.
As noted before on the earlier photo, in my case the bottom of the jack leg is very worn so I may trim it and drill new holes.
But not today.
(The nuts protruding below are for the outer large mounting plate on the tongue, NOT the ones I removed in this post, which are threaded directly into the tongue)
This process was pretty obvious to most I am sure but figured I would make a post just in case it helps someone.
We bought the trailer used and it had some damage to the bottom of the trailer tongue jack leg where it had been dragged on the pavement without the jockey wheel attached. As a result the jack leg had a large burr all the way around it and the jockey wheel that goes on the bottom of the tongue jack leg would no longer fit into the jockey wheel mount.
The following is the quick repair that I did to clean up the burr with an angle grinder and allow the wheel to re-mount.
First I secured the trailer on flat ground and with appropriate chocks, jack stands or other supports while I removed the tongue jack. I kept mine hooked to my tow vehicle with the e-brake on for support during the repair.
The tongue jack is held in place by 3 bolts, these are threaded directly into the tongue on my 2021 320ss Boondock so no need to hold any nuts on the bottom.
On my 2021 TAB 320ss they are 14mm.
Once I removed these 3 bolts the tongue jack lifts out.
Note the damaged bottom of the jack leg. Ouch. That must have sent some sparks!
The burr on the outside of the leg is too wide for the leg to fit into the wheel socket.
In this case the leg is worn almost down to the hole where the retaining pin goes through, I will probably need to do a more long term repair later. But for now I just need to get that wheel on temporarily so I can move the trailer around my yard.
I clamped the jack leg to a stable surface and used an angle grinder to clean up the burr. Always use appropriate safety gear when using an angle grinder, or if you don't have a grinder you could probably find a local repair shop that would clean it up for you for a few dollars.
Remove the bare minimum of metal to make the surface flush again so it will fit into the jockey wheel mount.
I am zoomed way in on this so the grinding looks rougher than it really is.
Reinstalling the jack leg back in the tongue is the reverse of removal.
Important - The breakaway safety cable runs through the tongue here as shown, I made sure not to pinch the breakaway safety cable when reinserting the jack leg, since that might have prevented the breakaway cable from functioning properly.
I was able to reach through the front of the tongue to hold the cable out of the way without pinching my fingers as I dropped the jack leg back in place.
Reinstalled the 3 bolts, and now the jockey wheel will mount normally.
As noted before on the earlier photo, in my case the bottom of the jack leg is very worn so I may trim it and drill new holes.
But not today.
(The nuts protruding below are for the outer large mounting plate on the tongue, NOT the ones I removed in this post, which are threaded directly into the tongue)
This process was pretty obvious to most I am sure but figured I would make a post just in case it helps someone.
Re: Mod: Warmer accent lights (LEDs) on 2023 TAB 320
I took it apart and put red gel paper over the lens.ckjs said:SLJ said:…. Changed the outside light to red also.I’d like to do that too. Which outside lights did you get?
I also replaced the ceiling light and bathroom light with the same except warm white and dimmable (and no glow when off) so I don't get blinded at night if I turn one on. Direct fit on my '21 320S. https://amzn.to/3Z43tCL
Re: A newbie needs some quick opinions
Excess water can accumulate on the chloroplast panel covering the bottom of the Tab 400. The panel does not provide a completely watertight seal, so water from traveling down the road can get in that area. The overflow valve does not drain into the area you mentioned. It is directly behind the rear tire on the driver's side of the trailer.
We also have seen a few spots on our 23' Tab 400 that appear to glue bleed through. It is only in one spot and isn't very prominent, so we haven't worried about it.
We also have seen a few spots on our 23' Tab 400 that appear to glue bleed through. It is only in one spot and isn't very prominent, so we haven't worried about it.
Re: Mod: Warmer accent lights (LEDs) on 2023 TAB 320
Interesting. I wouldn't need all the colors. I added red so I wouldn't ruin my night vision when using a telescope and camping at dark sky campgrounds. Changed the outside light to red also.
Re: T@B 400 Alde corrosion
On my T@b there is a larger, probably 1-1/4" rubber plug in the floor with 3 smaller holes in it. The small rubber hose from the bleeder simply sticks into one of the 3 holes and extends maybe an inch below the floor.
