Best Of
Re: How many gallons of Alde fluid needed for 21 Tab 320 BD?
Agree. Used less than the 3 gal ordered. Some left over for top offs.
Re: Dangerous problem with the 2024 Tab 400 refrigerator
@Bayliss, thanks for searching that out. Saved me posting anew.
@maxwellllll, the cotter pin has been working well for us. You'll need to drill a hole through the plastic top frame that's aligned with the hole just below in the top of the door - same diameter.
@maxwellllll, the cotter pin has been working well for us. You'll need to drill a hole through the plastic top frame that's aligned with the hole just below in the top of the door - same diameter.
Re: Just picked up my 2025 Tab 320 S Boondock!
@mx4789 I recall those days as well! I think the new T@Bs all come with the Victron monitors for the battery and solar. These are great but at one point they were an upgrade and were and are pricey.
Sometimes you can find a workaround as I did with my shunt:
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/13249/battery-monitor#latest
Mine is 5 years in and works just fine. I just have to look at it rather my phone, and I have a couple hundred more dollars in my pocket that I likely spent on other T@B stuff.
Good luck
Sometimes you can find a workaround as I did with my shunt:
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/13249/battery-monitor#latest
Mine is 5 years in and works just fine. I just have to look at it rather my phone, and I have a couple hundred more dollars in my pocket that I likely spent on other T@B stuff.
Good luck
Re: Just picked up my 2025 Tab 320 S Boondock!
Congrats. I just got the same thing a few months ago and I love it. Yes at 5'9" that is about the max for the Tab 320 (I am 5'8")
A few things I have done already that you may want to consider
1) Replaced the BB battery with to LiTime 100AH batteries and added a 3000W inverter and an AC outlet so I can run things like the microwave unhooked.
2) Added an external solar port (near the normal AC hookup) with a Victron 75/15 controller so I can hook up an external panel. One thing you will find is that the rooftop panels are VERY disappointing.
3) Added foam corner cushions above the door on the inside and under the little compartments above the sink - I scraped too much skin off my head on those!
4) Made utensil holders out of 4-5" PVC pipe and secured them on the kitchen counter along the wall with velcro. The work amazingly well and stay attached. Also made 2 smaller ones on the other side for toothbrushes and toothpaste.
5) Added small mirror on one of the little cabinets above the sink. Much easier to use then the one inside the bathroom
6) Added a thumb switch to cut the water on and off on the shower nozzle. That way you don't have to fiddle with the actual faucet while showering with soap in your eyes. Saves ALOT of water in the shower.
7) Made screens that attach with velcro (to cover the windows). Our first trip with our cats this weekend and they would destroy the original screens in minutes and then escape. We will see how this works.
8) Have fun with the audio and TV. They work but they are horrible. The two remotes combined have about a thousand buttons...really ridiculous.
Just some things to consider. Oh and if you haven't heard - make sure the screens are up if you are cooking on the stove. Some people have posted that they melted their screens if down when cooking.
Cheers.
Dave
A few things I have done already that you may want to consider
1) Replaced the BB battery with to LiTime 100AH batteries and added a 3000W inverter and an AC outlet so I can run things like the microwave unhooked.
2) Added an external solar port (near the normal AC hookup) with a Victron 75/15 controller so I can hook up an external panel. One thing you will find is that the rooftop panels are VERY disappointing.
3) Added foam corner cushions above the door on the inside and under the little compartments above the sink - I scraped too much skin off my head on those!
4) Made utensil holders out of 4-5" PVC pipe and secured them on the kitchen counter along the wall with velcro. The work amazingly well and stay attached. Also made 2 smaller ones on the other side for toothbrushes and toothpaste.
5) Added small mirror on one of the little cabinets above the sink. Much easier to use then the one inside the bathroom
6) Added a thumb switch to cut the water on and off on the shower nozzle. That way you don't have to fiddle with the actual faucet while showering with soap in your eyes. Saves ALOT of water in the shower.
7) Made screens that attach with velcro (to cover the windows). Our first trip with our cats this weekend and they would destroy the original screens in minutes and then escape. We will see how this works.
8) Have fun with the audio and TV. They work but they are horrible. The two remotes combined have about a thousand buttons...really ridiculous.
Just some things to consider. Oh and if you haven't heard - make sure the screens are up if you are cooking on the stove. Some people have posted that they melted their screens if down when cooking.
Cheers.
Dave
Re: How many gallons of Alde fluid needed for 21 Tab 320 BD?
I barely needed about 2.5 gallons in my 2017.
Re: DC to DC charger
I installed a Renogy 20A DC-DC charger in our previous tow vehicle and found it fairly straightforward. I ran 8-ga wires directly from the battery to the rear of the truck (2007 F150) and ended near the 7-pin trailer connection. The wires were enclosed in a black ribbed plastic loom. I did buy aftermarket battery terminals to accommodate hooking up the wires. I installed a 30-amp fuse in-line fuse on the positive wire. I terminated the wiring with an SAE connection. I know some folks here aren't impressed with the SAE fittings but I've had no problem with them. I mounted the charger inside the tub of the trailer on the front wall. I ran wires from the tongue of the trailer (again next to the 7-pin wiring) to the charger, enclosed in the plastic loom and zip-tied the wires to the 7-pin trailer wiring. I then connected the charger to a bus bar for the 100 ah litime battery. Renogy requires a 12v activation wire, so I ran a 16 ga wire from the charger to the junction box under the tongue of the trailer and hooked into the terminal for the trailer running lights. This way I could turn the charger on or off by turning the parking lights on/off while driving. Renogy also has an option to halve the output of the charger, so I had the option of charging at 20 amps or 10 amps, depending on how much time I was driving and what load I wanted to put on the alternator. I installed a switch in the tub to accomplish this.
When I connected the trailer, I could hook up the dc-dc charger if I wanted to by plugging in the SAE connection when I hooked up the 7-pin connection. While in route, I could turn the charger on/off by turning the running lights on/off. I didn't have any problems with dust or water with the charger being in the tub. All-in-all, it was a pretty easy install.
That being said, I didn't install the charger when I got a new truck. The 100w panel on the roof generally keeps the batteries charged. I also have two 100 W solar panels that I can deploy if needed at the camping site. We mostly boondock and we've been able to keep the battery charged without much problem. We are quite conservative in our power use, having removed the television, hardly ever using the radio, and using rechargeable Luci lights for bedtime reading. The 12v fridge is the largest user of electricity by far.
Wanted - Older T@B Shower Door
Want glass shower door assembly from older T@B 320 as shown below. Message me if you have one.
Re: Victron App History
Just a follow up..took a recent trip and Victron showed full charging on the history...my guess is that a day may be missed in the History when battery is full...thanks for the help.
Re: No current when plugged into AC?
OK, so I'm not entirely sure what made it work, but it's working now. The VE.Bus is seeing the shore power and I'm getting charge to the battery. I toggled the Main breaker on the breaker panel and also found and toggled the Gloso breaker behind the battery shut off panel. I also turned the VE.Bus Multiplus setting to "On". This seemed to be the magic that got the shore power coming in. But oddly, I'd turned the Multiplus to "On" before with no change.
My understanding regarding the Multiplus "On" setting is that it should be "Off" when I don't need to use AC in the camper (for the microwave or other appliance as it drains power). That was my experience while camping last week.
So, once my battery is back to full charge (in Float state), please let me know what I need to do to reset things. The SOC, Synchronize, and other options confuse me a bit.
Thanks again for everyone's help. Much appreciated!
My understanding regarding the Multiplus "On" setting is that it should be "Off" when I don't need to use AC in the camper (for the microwave or other appliance as it drains power). That was my experience while camping last week.
So, once my battery is back to full charge (in Float state), please let me know what I need to do to reset things. The SOC, Synchronize, and other options confuse me a bit.
Thanks again for everyone's help. Much appreciated!
Re: Coupler lock?
I have 2 coupler locks:
The Blockhead https://www.campingworld.com/deadbolt-ct-johnson-blockhead-trailer-coupler-lock-1-78-and-2-49068.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=%7BCampaign%7D&cq_cmp=22330213901&cq_con=176591302695&cq_term=&cq_plac=&cq_net=g&cq_plt=gp&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22330213901&gbraid=0AAAAAD_wfq-wvM0i3-brY-zALdqLA8NSa&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-aPu05-lkAMVU87CBB3MQQLhEAQYAiABEgJlH_D_BwE
And the MasterLock https://store.masterlock.com/collections/trailers-towing/products/377dat
The MasterLock is definitely beefier but has the downsides of needing to leave the coupler open and the locking bar is visible/attackable. I found that when it’s stored for awhile having the coupler open causes it to stick a little. The Blockhead is lighter but the way it covers the coupler rim and makes the locking mechanism covered actually feels more secure.
And the MasterLock https://store.masterlock.com/collections/trailers-towing/products/377dat
The MasterLock is definitely beefier but has the downsides of needing to leave the coupler open and the locking bar is visible/attackable. I found that when it’s stored for awhile having the coupler open causes it to stick a little. The Blockhead is lighter but the way it covers the coupler rim and makes the locking mechanism covered actually feels more secure.
I combine this with a combination lock for the coupler release and for the hitch pin.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BBRKH1KB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch-Lock/Trimax-Locks/TMX26VR.html?feed=npn&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=1041187631&gbraid=0AAAAAD_vMtlUb-Z_nvAxZdeiaXeNWOSQj&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI16jimqOlkAMVixStBh0cyDtzEAQYASABEgK2GPD_BwE
As others have said none of these will prevent a determined thief with an angle grinder from taking your trailer but I feel the combination of all three is an adequate deterrent.
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch-Lock/Trimax-Locks/TMX26VR.html?feed=npn&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=1041187631&gbraid=0AAAAAD_vMtlUb-Z_nvAxZdeiaXeNWOSQj&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI16jimqOlkAMVixStBh0cyDtzEAQYASABEgK2GPD_BwE
As others have said none of these will prevent a determined thief with an angle grinder from taking your trailer but I feel the combination of all three is an adequate deterrent.