@ScottG, Yes I read about your tactics in a couple of other threads -- make perfect sense. Thanks for the additional observations. I agree that it's a great little trailer.ScottG said:I agree with everything you said, and will add that not only is the freshwater tank in my 2105 Max-S "brick" shaped, it's also a bit pinched in the middle where it runs over the axle. This further contributes to the inability to drain the tank completely when the trailer is level.Another suspected issue is that as the the tank level is drawn down, water will tend to swirl/whirlpool around the outlet. This results in water being drawn in, and the pump loses its prime even though there is still water in the tank.These are shortcomings I've just learned to accept and work around in this otherwise great little trailer.
You will want to make sure that everything in that charge line/battery feed line is 60amps so you do not see any restrictions."
In my reply, I suggested WFCO add that information to the Operator's Manual. NuCamp, if you're listening, it would be nice if you set up your products to accommodate this to truly make the trailers "lithium ready" rather than "lithium ready after required modifications".
While solar is my primary source for charging the batteries, I'm willing to go through the modification process so the T@B functions as originally intended (if my only option is to charge my lithium batteries using shore power) and so the next owner doesn't have to try to figure out what's going on with the charging system. In my opinion, it's just better to fix it right and move on.
gspdx said:I use it. I like it and really appreciate being able to remove the jack when traveling. A few things to note:
- Because of the style of the hitch I found that this device wouldn't sit flush on my hitch/frame. So I bought some longer bolts - high strength - and some steel spacers to lift the device up.
- Due to lifting the device up it shortens the effective lift of the jack. Haven't had any issues yet due to this but wouldn't be surprised if it causes an issue trying to level at some point or even trying to unhitch from my truck.
- The plate of the jack "floats" inside the metal carrier and just locates on the 3 notches. It is not a big deal but good to understand that when installed the jack isn't bolted to anything so if you try to roll the trailer around it will move a bit.
I want to install the Jack-E-Up on our new 2021 400 Boondock and I see that I'll need the longer bolts and spacers. May I get what size bolts I'll need? I'm not familiar with bolt sizes and don't want to disassemble the jack, take the bolts down to a hardware store in this time of COVID, and try to figure it out with someone who may not know anymore about it than I do. I think it would be much easier and safer to order the longer bolts and spacers on-line. Also what should I use for spacers? I appreciate any assistance you can offer.
Yes, my bad. I did the calculation for batteries in parallel. However, 6V times 230Ah is 1380Wh, a unit of energy. I agree with your conclusion. It appears that lithium is now less expensive per amp-hour than high quality FLA batteries. Yikes!AnOldUR said:Two 6V 230Ah batteries in series will give you 230Ah at 12V. Half of that is 115Ah of capacity.
6V times 230Ah = 1380 watts
1380 watts times 2 = 2760 watts
2760 watts divided by 12V = 230Ah
50% of 230Ah = 115Ah
None of that says you won't get a few day of boondocking from 115Ah.
Replace control panel. Purchased new control panel from Alde ($270). Easy install.Sharon_is_SAM said:What was the fix?