If your TAB (or probably any RV) catches fire it will be fully involved by the time the fire department can get there--even if it is parked next to the fire department! They will NOT attempt to ensure the propane tank is turned off. They will simply protect the adjacent exposures and let the propane tank vent as it heats. They will probably have no idea where the propane tank is even located but if they do know they may flood the tank with water in an attempt to keep it cool enough to not vent. But maybe not.
I retrofitted keyed-alike tubular locks (like those used on vending machines) on my 2019 TAB 400 tub and hatches. I travel with the propane OFF and the hatches and tub locked. I lock the tub and hatches whenever I am away from the TAB but I don't leave any propane running when I am away either.
Same here. The very small amount of water remaining after blowing out may freeze, but will not damage anything.
Side note: if you open all the faucets before opening the low point drain, most of the water pulls itself through. There will be very little water remaining to blow out up hill.
@TabbyShack, I think if you run the system dry with the pump prior to introducing AF, you have little risk of diluting the AF too much. If the AF comes out with a good stream from the faucets, showers, and toilet, then is should be of sufficient strength.
I personally find the blow method alone less effort the using AF, but I have an adapter to connect a compressor to the city water inlet. Easy peasy for me.
Also if the trailer is heated, leave the washroom door open enough to get warm air inside, this will help keep the black tank from freezing, since it is under the toilet above the floor, not under the trailer. cheere
As @pthomas745 mentioned the blowout method is great for those who are able to use their trailer year round and don’t want to deal with antifreeze. Just make sure you do a thorough job of blowing the system out. A particularly troublesome faucet is the shower on the 400.
Even after blowing the lines out I can sometimes hear gurgling. I ultimately use antifreeze anyway so it doesn’t matter in my situation but what helps is unscrewing the showerhead line and blowing the water out into a towel. The long vertical line is difficult for the pressure to push the water upward. Eliminating the showerhead portion helps.
It's 50 foot pounds to set the bearing. Then, without turning the hub, the nut is carefully backed away to permit the cotter pin to slide into the first available opening in the nut. There are other higher specs for other axles and bearings, but for this one, 50 is the magic number.
Castellated nut or nut retainer, the procedure is identical. You torque to 50 foot pounds and then without disturbing the hub you loosen the nut just enough to allow you to either pass the cotter pin through the first available slot or the first location where the retainer can be located. You should not be totally loosening the nut, just making enough clearance between it and the mating surface to allow it to turn freely. By doing this you are making sure that the races are seated and that there is not so much slop in the hub that the wheel will run cockeyed as yours has done. The suggestion to permit a 12 inch wrench or pliers with full hand force is a joke. Apparently, Dexter feels a need to accommodate woodshed mechanics. There is no way, zero, that anyone, not Mitchell Hooper, can accurately tighten to 50 foot pounds with pliers or a 12 inch wrench. Ridiculous. Your tire should be plenty convincing.
@vshumate No reason those areas cannot be used for storage of dense items. The radiators for the alde are behind the lift up storage area and the heat flows up from the gap behind that.