3 way norcold does not stay cool on DC while towing

druthazer

my recently purchased used 2017 320s 3 way norcold does not stay cool on dc while towing by my 2017 Toyota Highlander.   
I have purchased but not yet installed 2 X 100w  flexible Renogy solar panels & Voyager controller.  I did install 2 X 150 ah flooded deep cycle batteries NEW from Batteries + in parallel.   Even with new batteries fridge warmed right up while driving....  checked main fuze by the charger transformer panel.  Is there another fuse? Or way to check that dc actually is getting to fridge?

DougH

@druthazer ; Apologies for restating what you've no doubt read already, if you did the search for "fridge fuse".  That fridge doesn't seem to cool much on DC power, and pulls a lot of amps, but slowly does the job on propane and mostly gets the job done on AC power... as long as it's not too warm out.  So many folks just run it on propane when on the road.  Others are uncomfortable having propane on when traveling.  But either way, folks cool the thing off before hitting the road for a half day, then stick ice in the fridge for the travel period.

If you're not hooked up to your vehicle with the 7 pin connector, and running the fridge on DC, you should see the battery monitor take a dip in voltage when you turn the fridge on.  That's another way you could check that it's at least trying.

Some of the larger absorption class 3-way units work quite well in other rigs, but I've read of plenty of people unhappy with their smaller Norcolds across many different RV manufacturers.

On the bright side though, we NüCampers do get the Alde in compensation for our trials and tribulations with the Norcold.

druthazer

@DougH.   Fridge makes No drop in dc voltage when on battery and turn fridge on to dc. 
Also the indicator lights on front panel do not light either ac or dc.  But fridge works on AC  and propane fine. 
 I want to pull fridge out to check dc power and fuze on top.  Seems like the door screen frame is blocking the fridge and screws on the right side preventing easy pulling out fridge to access the top to check power and fuze.   

Anyone advise how to do this or how to lift the burners to access from top?

Sharon_is_SAM

Found this regarding removing the frig.  The other links may be helpful.

• Michigan_Mike Administrator Posts: 2,618

   September 2016 edited October 2016 71.10.50.155

  I recently removed the Norcold unit and stove, but wouldn't recommend doing it unless you absolutely have to.  I have had an intermittent problem in that my new 2016 Silverado pickup has an alert bell that sounds occasionally (does it for the seat belts too and is very annoying) and warns me to check my trailer wiring, then it stops and says the trailer wiring is connected.   This has been both puzzling and annoying....  I have discussed this with others and gone to some great lengths trying to track the problem down inside/outside the trailer (e.g., checking wiring, butt splices, connections, probable rub points, wiring harnesses, etc.), including pulling the Norcold unit out and checking the wiring harness that runs behind and to the side of the unit.  
  
  When I undid the screws along the front of the Norcold (piece of cake!) I also removed my screen door.  This really wasn't a major deal as the door has a couple of mounting screws holding it in place and one through the bottom door frame area and you basically just pull the door up (there is a screw on each side of the frame that serve as keepers of sorts for the door) and out carefully.  You will see the mounting grove opening and small track that is cut into the plastic side wall portion of the frame of the screen door should you decide to remove it.  
  
  I also had to remove the stove top as this needs to be done to get to the propane line on the fridge (which you need to unhook) and this really wasn't a major issue either as my stove was held in place with four corner-screws and when removed the stove lifts out easily and I was able to do so without unhooking the propane line.  
  
  Note - The Norcold unit WILL NOT budge after removing the front screws along the face of the unit, etc. and WILL APPEAR to be held in place by clips, etc. but it is definitely not.....  The vent piping is solid steel and holds the Norcold in place like the rock of Gibraltar!  
  
  The biggest issue in this entire task relates to the front fridge exhaust vents on the front of the trailer.  It's VERY EASY to unscrew the vent screws as this will now release the Norcold unit (it almost gives off a sigh after unscrewing the vent screws!  - Just kidding!) and allows you to easily slide/remove the Norcold unit out from the cabinet area.  However when it goes back into place, this is where all the fun begins.  Aligning, fastening and screwing the Norcold unit back onto the vent pipes is a swift pain in the butt and I will admit that a second helper on site (would be an enormous help) might have helped out some and allowed me to get the venting installed much easier.  
  
  For one thing I could see from the factory's initial Norcold install that the screws did take them some time to install and mount the Norcold unit flush against the vent pipes.  One of the front screws was off on a slight angle so I ended up struggling with it until I got it back into the proper alignment and after alignment was made I was able to screw the exhaust piping in place tight.  I also had to open the trailers front window, reach in and use my arm to pull the unit into place, get both ends of Norcold piping aligned with the screw threads and secure the Norcold unit into place once and for all.  This can be accomplished, but this area is a tight fit, the piping is rigid and there is no give to it and this portion of the task requires patience, proper alignment, some precision and some stamina.  
  
  As noted above, you will scratch your head in frustration if you think the Norcold unit is easily coming out in the initial phase of unscrewing it from the front of the cabinet as there is a bit more to this task than that.  

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/1553/norcold-3-way-fridge-vibration-leads-to-loose-thermocouple-connector

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/11178/3-way-frig

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/6748/update-2018-norcold-3-way-model-n180-3-ac-indicator-light-defective

Bayliss

@druthazer, these may be of interest:

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/109178#Comment_109178

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/6748/update-2018-norcold-3-way-model-n180-3-ac-indicator-light-defective#latest

I do not recall who posted the following info, but you might want to give it a try:

"One other thing to look out for which happened to me with the same fridge, when switching between different power sources (or LP), mine suddenly was not working on 12V, even when 110 and LP worked fine. I read on the forum to try flipping through all settings on the temp control & power source dials from min to max, which can sometimes reset the system if something is not working right. After sweeping each control knob a few times everything was working good as new once again.”

There are posts on this forum regarding keeping the refrigerator cold with DC power while driving, so use the search box to find those.  Generally, it doesn't do a great job and is really just intended to maintain a "cool" refrigerator.  The Norcold owner's manual briefly discusses that.

You didn't mention it in your original post, but did you check the 30-amp inline fuse at the battery connection to confirm it did not blow?  Also, when testing the 12V connection from the trailer battery to the refrigerator, make sure that you are not connected to your tow vehicle OR shorepower when you do so.  Additionally, you wrote that you checked the "main" fuse at the converter panel, but it is not clear which fuse you are referring to.  You should identify the fuse that is connected to the refrigerator DC circuit and pull it out to inspect and/or test it.

Good luck!

GatorEgg

I did a lot of research on this related to my Tacoma.  Even contacted Toyota Corp.  My 2003 Tacoma which I wired myself would provide enough power to the trailer to freeze up my refrigerator.  My 2019 Tacoma couldn’t, with my refrigerator being warm after an eight hour drive.  It seems somewhere around 2005/6 auto manufacturers began installing “smart” alternators in vehicles.  They don’t “feel” the current draw.  If driving a newer vehicle and you’re really serious about juice on the road you can wire in a dc to dc charger.  Not cheep but many overlander folks go this way for power on the road.

druthazer

DougH. Well I lifted the stove top.... quite easy and found no DC coming in. Both fuzes on top of fridge good.   
CHECK TWICE:  SO I checked the fuze in the converter panel and realized I had checked the wrong fuze first time... and what do you know, the correct 15 A  fuze was blown.  ( BS in Elect Eng 40 years ago finally paid off. ) Has power now and even the little indicator on the fridge panel shows DC light when turned on and good power drop on battery when turned on.   
Hopefully it does work on DC and doesn't drain the batteries too fast.   Will have my 2 100W solar panels installed in a couple weeks... theoretically that will give enough power to keep batteries charged while driving during day. 
ALL'S WELL THAT ENDS WELL. 

DougH

@druthazer ; Awesome!!! Isn't it nice how spikes from hookups, be it new equipment, or just plugging into shore power can make our lives so interesting?

ChanW

I hope you've read the myriad threads here on the forum about running the three-way on 12v.

I tried for a number of seasons to get my Tacoma to keep up with the draw of the 3-way, and finally realized, after watching the Victron Battery Monitor app while driving (well, not while driving, exactly...), that the Tacoma doesn't pump out enough amperage to possibly keep up with the 11A draw of the 3-way. It returns to a 'trickle charge' fairly soon after starting the engine. (Headlights on/off has no effect either)

Note also, that the 3-way on DC doesn't pay attention to the temperature setting thermostat, it's simply on all the time.

It might be better to power a good sized inverter, and plug the fridge's AC plug into that. Maybe it would work better!

Just rehashing the same old same old!