Norcold works at home shore power but not a campsite

Denny16

Bottom line, since this is a new a TaB, I would take it back to the dealer and let them fix it.  You might just have a bad refrigerator unit.  You can have the dealer label the circuit breakers and show you which one does what.
cheers

jules2go

ScottG said:

jules2go said:

ScottG said:

Do you always have your battery cut-off switch in the same position, whether at home or in a campground?

Does anything else (regardless of whether it is 120V or 12V) not work? 

Scott, one 120v outlet, the one on passenger side rear, isn't working. Please see my post just now with the update -- fridge now cooling with 50 amp plug. (Also, I don't think it's the 30 amp outlet at this site that's not working; that would be 4 in a row of 30amp outlets at different sites where it wasn't working in that case. )

Curiouser and curiouser. What type of outlet are you plugging into at home? Also, please answer the question I asked about your battery switch position!

And does that rear outlet work when the fridge is working?

Sorry... the outlet at home is a regular household outlet, three-pronged; the rear outlet working when the fridge is working -- I'm not sure. It didn't work last night when on 50amp and fridge was cold. (haha I didn

jules2go

Yes, so I have scheduled a drop-off at the dealer for Saturday. It is brand new so it's all under warranty thankfully. 

Thank you everyone for your superb help with this issue.

Happy holiday weekend

jules2go

I've used the same power cord. But have wondered if it is the problem. But why would the AC work fine? Since I have solar it's not always apparent to me what my actual electric source has been. But when the AC is working, then I know I'm getting shore power somehow. I'll have to do a follow-up on this thread after I get it back from the dealer. Thank you again!

jules2go

VictoriaP said:

@Sharon_is_SAM nüCamp used to label the circuits, judging by pics I’ve seen on this forum. As of the 2019 model, they stopped, which is a huge step backwards as far as I’m concerned, exactly because of situations like this where someone (like me!) with no electrical experience can’t even help triage problems at the most basic level of the circuit breaker. No idea why they stopped labelling those.

Exactly! Why they aren't labeled does make a mystery more mysterious!! They're just trying to keep us on our toes. 

Bayliss

@JEB's post is very interesting.  I learned something new.  But, unless I am misunderstanding that info, and the description of the problems in the original post, it does not sound like a circuit breaker is tripping in @jules2go's trailer.

I am adding a few points to consider for the sake of discussion only.  I now (early on Sept. 3rd) see that I was adding my comments while @jules2go posted that the trailer is going to be dropped off at the dealer for repair, so I have made revisions to the following:

1.  Check inside the cabinet under the kitchen sink to confirm that the refrigerator plug is securely inserted into the electrical outlet.  [But, even if loose, it doesn't explain why the rear outlet is also not working.]

2.  Assuming that the plug symbol (green light) on the front panel of the refrigerator is illuminating, then there is electrical power to the refrigerator.  Also, with the needle in the green zone on the front panel meter when using propane, that confirms that gas is flowing to the refrigerator.

3.  When attaching the 30-amp cord to the trailer, ensure that there is a firm connection.  The connection is different than a household plug/outlet.  When connecting to the trailer: while grasping the plug in your hand, turn it a little to the left, insert it into the trailer's 30-amp receptacle and push it onto the receptacle prongs.  Then, rotate the plug to the right to fully engage the plug inside the outlet.  Although you don't necessarily have to fully screw the plug connector onto the outlet threads, doing that will ensure a firm connection.  To avoid tripping a breaker or blowing a 12V fuse, always turn off the campground pedestal circuit breaker(s) before connecting a power cord between the  pedestal and your trailer.  Similarly, before disconnecting from the campground pedestal, turn off all electrical items inside the trailer (e.g., the refrigerator, TV/stereo and the Alde control panel.)

4.  Independently (e.g., with a digital meter) confirm that the 12V battery is fully charged (and properly charging.  As has already been mentioned, a low battery can cause electrical issues to 12V devices like the refrigerator, even with AC power going to the converter.

5.  Regarding the rear inside outlet not working, that outlet is on the same circuit as the outside outlet (rear passenger side of trailer), which has its own GFCI.  Check the GFCI as well as the circuit breaker at the WFCO power center.

In response to the earlier question, "YES," the trailer uses 30-amp.  As @JEB noted, the electrical adapter that allows you to reduce the connection from a 50-amp campground outlet the trailer's 30-amp cord is referred to as a "dogbone."

Denny16

The GFI circuit breaker that gets tripped due to a ground fault in the trailer is the shore power breaker, not the one in the trailer.  

Cheers

Bayliss

Thanks, @Denny16.......so, @jules2go, my question about whether there was any breaker(s) tripping equally applies to the campground pedestal.

AirBoss

Don't mean to rain on the parade but perhaps it's time to bite the bullet and get the rig to a highly reputable repair facility. Troubleshooting over a forum can be helpfulwith some matters but in others...nothing replaces an SME with hands on the problem. 

jules2go

Yes, agreed, as another person said, bottom line is get it to the dealer. I'm taking her there on Saturday. 

jules2go

Bayliss said:

@JEB's post is very interesting.  I learned something new.  But, unless I am misunderstanding that info, and the description of the problems in the original post, it does not sound like a circuit breaker is tripping in @jules2go's trailer.

I am adding a few points to consider for the sake of discussion only.  I now (early on Sept. 3rd) see that I was adding my comments while @jules2go posted that the trailer is going to be dropped off at the dealer for repair, so I have made revisions to the following:

1.  Check inside the cabinet under the kitchen sink to confirm that the refrigerator plug is securely inserted into the electrical outlet.  [But, even if loose, it doesn't explain why the rear outlet is also not working.]

2.  Assuming that the plug symbol (green light) on the front panel of the refrigerator is illuminating, then there is electrical power to the refrigerator.  Also, with the needle in the green zone on the front panel meter when using propane, that confirms that gas is flowing to the refrigerator.

3.  When attaching the 30-amp cord to the trailer, ensure that there is a firm connection.  The connection is different than a household plug/outlet.  When connecting to the trailer: while grasping the plug in your hand, turn it a little to the left, insert it into the trailer's 30-amp receptacle and push it onto the receptacle prongs.  Then, rotate the plug to the right to fully engage the plug inside the outlet.  Although you don't necessarily have to fully screw the plug connector onto the outlet threads, doing that will ensure a firm connection.  To avoid tripping a breaker or blowing a 12V fuse, always turn off the campground pedestal circuit breaker(s) before connecting a power cord between the  pedestal and your trailer.  Similarly, before disconnecting from the campground pedestal, turn off all electrical items inside the trailer (e.g., the refrigerator, TV/stereo and the Alde control panel.)

4.  Independently (e.g., with a digital meter) confirm that the 12V battery is fully charged (and properly charging.  As has already been mentioned, a low battery can cause electrical issues to 12V devices like the refrigerator, even with AC power going to the converter.

In response to the earlier question, "YES," the trailer uses 30-amp.  As @JEB noted, the electrical adapter that allows you to reduce the connection from a 50-amp campground outlet the trailer's 30-amp cord is referred to as a "dogbone."

Bayliss, thank you for adding this info. 1-2-3 all "check" (yes, done); 4 -- the tech at the dealer's first response when I told him why I was bringing it in was "might be the battery". ...we shall see. Hoping for a quick and easy fix! It's time for fall camping and I need my little house back!

BrianZ

It's disappointing to hear that NüCamp doesn't label circuits anymore.  Ours are labeled, including both AC and DC branches..

Too bad they don't still do this, as I've found it very helpful at times.

jules2go said:

I've used the same power cord. But have wondered if it is the problem. But why would the AC work fine? Since I have solar it's not always apparent to me what my actual electric source has been. But when the AC is working, then I know I'm getting shore power somehow. I'll have to do a follow-up on this thread after I get it back from the dealer. Thank you again!

And regarding the above, I assume by "AC", you're referring to the air conditioning.  It confused me, as "AC" usually means alternating (house) current to me, while "A/C" means air conditioning.  (Perhaps AC current should be "A~C" since it's a sine wave).
In any case, you make a good point, @jules2go, and the only difference I see are that fridge & A/C would be on different circuits, and fridge also has some DC (battery) operated components, as previously mentioned, so that could complicate the troubleshooting by pointing another finger at a possible glitch with the DC/battery components.

As to your other comment about the electrical source not always being apparent, that's often true at least initially, but I can clear up the solar part of it for you..
Solar doesn't really power anything directly, but is dedicated to recharging the battery(s).  The real question is whether you're relying on DC battery power & if so, whether it's also being adequately recharged by either solar or the converter-charger.  Generally, you can answer yes to that if you're on working shore power, assuming your battery switch is turned on and you have a good (chargeable) battery, and no blown fuses at battery/converter/appliance. Aside from that, wiring shorts can be a tricky issue as mentioned.  Speaking of fuses, check out the "Fuses for Newbies" article in the reference section, if you haven't already.  

Glad you're taking it in.
Good luck & looking forward to hearing later what/where the problem was.

jules2go

Brian, thank you for sharing the image and all the other info here, very helpful. Yes, I think I was referring to a/c, not "ac" as in alternating current, thanks. When boondocking, I will use the radio, fan, water pump only, with battery turned on; I was thinking that the solar would keep the battery charged adequately to run these things and since they kept running I assumed it was. Maybe not?? The technician told me initially when we spoke yesterday that it might be the battery. I will post an update when I get it back. 

jules2go

Plugged camper in at home last night to shore power, and again this morning it's nice and cold while plugged back into the same outlet I always use at home. This topic has been pretty well exhausted I know, and I'll post an update when I get it back, but just wanted to add that final comment. Thanks again everyone. 

ChanW

What cable and adapters do you use to plug in at home, and what cable and adapters do you use when you are having trouble? Photos of each?

rh5555

...and when you're at home, are you plugged into a GFCI-controlled outlet?

Denny16

If not, do you have a GFCI type outlet (has trip button between outlets) outlet available in your garage, you could plug into?

If yes, try plugging the TaB into it and see if it trips.
cheers

jules2go

(Edited for photo size.  I recommend the app Image Size - Sharon)

jules2go

I'm so sorry this image is so big! It is GFCI. 

jules2go

ChanW said:

What cable and adapters do you use to plug in at home, and what cable and adapters do you use when you are having trouble? Photos of each?

I'm using the same cables as at home that I use at the campsite. I guess the only item that's different is the home outlet plug adapter thing, which is in the photo I posted (the little black piece going into the home outlet that's attached to the end of the 30 amp power cord). 

Sharon_is_SAM

@jules2go - this probably won’t help, but do you unhitch at the campground?  I have read about weird electrical events that were attributed to a grounding issue when hitched to a TV.  

Verna

My question is, what does your surge suppressor lights tell you at the campground? Before I got my EMS, I would plug the surge suppressor into the campground’s outlet (without camper cord), to verify the correct wiring of the campground plug. If it was okay, then I would plug my surge suppressor and my camper cord into the same outlet that I tested.

mona

When at campgrounds, how are you determining that you are “pretty level”? Eyeballing or using some type of level? If using a level, is the bubble inside the lines? Doesn’t matter if propane or electric, if the bubble isn’t somewhere between the lines, you are not level enough. I have no idea where the, it only needs to be level on propane came from. 

Sharon_is_SAM

@mona - I suspect that owners with the 3 way frig who more frequently or exclusively camp with an electric hook up, may be at campgrounds on asphalt pads that are much easier to level and the frig operates without fuss.  They may think that level only applies to LPG use.  

jules2go

I did pick up a longer leveler the other day; compared it to that small one the camper came with and they read the same. At home it's less level than at any campsite. 

jules2go

Verna said:

My question is, what does your surge suppressor lights tell you at the campground? Before I got my EMS, I would plug the surge suppressor into the campground’s outlet (without camper cord), to verify the correct wiring of the campground plug. If it was okay, then I would plug my surge suppressor and my camper cord into the same outlet that I tested.

Thank you Verna. Yes, I always use a surge protector and check the lights beforehand. 

jules2go

Sharon_is_SAM said:

@jules2go - this probably won’t help, but do you unhitch at the campground?  I have read about weird electrical events that were attributed to a grounding issue when hitched to a TV.  

Yes, I usually unhitch. At home it works hitched or unhitched. 

mona

Those asphalt pads can fool you. 😁 That’s why I went with a jack foot pad. Couldn’t get level enough, front to back, with the wheel on and down as far as the jack would go. Just a tad over the line, and a warm frig the next morning. Hooked back up and removed the wheel and put a leveling block under the jack. Never had a warm frig since. So, yes, level on electric, too. 

AirBoss

May not address OP's specific issue but passing along RE: leveling. Most 3-way absorption fridge manufacturers recommend your rig be within 3 degrees of level side to side and 6 degrees front back, regardless of power source, if your staying for a night or two. Depending on your "leveling system" (i.e. small carpenter level, torpedo levels, etc) that may mean within a half bubble or so. For longer stays (plugged in and running while parked at home, week-long stays, etc.), take the time to center the bubble. Otherwise, over time, ammonia crystals build up in the tubing system and eventually will block the coolant flow. Think plaque in your arteries...same concept. 

@jules2go
I hope you find the solution to your issues and it's an easy and quick fix! Hang in there!  

rh5555

@jules2go, when you are pulling your trailer, do you have the fridge powered on 12V or gas?  If your trailer doesn't tow level, maybe the fridge is getting messed up while you're under way. 

Do you do your driveway test immediately after returning, or does the fridge rest for a bit first?