(Title edited for search purposes. Moderator)
We just picked up our 400 BD today and during the walkthrough, the tech doing it said when it comes to leveling the camper, get it level front-to-back FIRST, and to use the stabilizers to "fine tune" the side-to-side leveling, to not bother with wheel levelers.
Now, from the topics I've read here, this seems to be VERY against conventional wisdom / guidelines. Should I play it safe, swing by our local RV dealer (not the one we got the camper from, they're a 3hr drive!) and pick up some wheel leveling pads? I mean, they're not outrageously expensive, so...
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2018 Nissan Titan Pro 4X "Big Bird"
Leadville Colorado
Do those that come after you a big favor and call the dealer back and explain that what they told you is wrong and will potentially damage the T@B.
I have used a BAL Leveler for 8 years now and I absolutely love it and recommend it to everyone. One caveat, its a bit harder to fit around the tread on the Boondock tire, but it does fit. My friend drives up on a 1x4 and then the BAL slips around easier. I like the BAL because you don't have to be precise in driving up on the blocks. You park where you want and then the BAL slips around the tire. The other caveat is, it can seem harder to get around the tire in some situations where the ground under the T@B is slightly raised. The fix then is just to grab a claw hammer and clear the path just a little bit. It sounds like a lot but I like it better than the blocks because you can fine tune your level of level (haha) rather than guess how many blocks you need and then having to settle for the height that is the least unlevel. Blocks are good too though, but everyone I have told about the BAL really loves it. Cons: its heavy and you may want to get a pizza delivery bag to carry it in.
Funny, we check our level at the time of using our Anderson and while using the jack. I never check the level at the time of using the stabilizers.
We use these. They are available from many online stores, many with free shipping.
Bill
https://www.campingworld.com/andersen-camper-leveler-104623.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ppc&utm_campaign={Campaign}&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8_qRBhCXARIsAE2AtRZcN7ETC3AWmPPyWdBkixvccSrHxOvlCRVeBx4rXK5xTaf-CEOBRBQaAiq5EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
2020 nuCamp T@B 320S * Jeep Wrangler
edit to add, your 400 stabilizers may be different than my 320’s
2020 nuCamp T@B 320S * Jeep Wrangler
2023 Ford Maverick XLT
The Finger Lakes of New York
2013 Toyota Highlander 3.5L V6
Jeff & Amy
Jay and Kat
Tow vehicle: 2022 Jeep Gladiator Sport S + tow package
Camper: 2022 T@B 400 Boondock w/Norcold 3-way fridge
2023 Ford Maverick XLT
The Finger Lakes of New York
I'm done commenting on this thread. I'm beyond frustrated at this point.
cheers
2013 Toyota Highlander 3.5L V6
Cheers
edit to add that our 320 is a 2020 and I don’t know of any changes made to newer models that may make a difference.
2020 nuCamp T@B 320S * Jeep Wrangler
Jay and Kat
Tow vehicle: 2022 Jeep Gladiator Sport S + tow package
Camper: 2022 T@B 400 Boondock w/Norcold 3-way fridge
Cheers
In fact, a popular mod at one time was to replace the stabilizers with scissors jacks that could be used leveling purposes. Although I had (and still have) reservations about this approach based on the strength of the frame mounting points, practically speaking no damage was ever reported here from this mod either.
Note that I am not advocating one approach over the other, just that I am unaware of a single instance of trailer damage occurring from supporting the trailer (occupied or otherwise) using the existing stabilizer mount locations. YMMV!
Sm@ll World: 2021 320S Boondock, 6V Pb-acid
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