Alde Not Heating Camper

System

This discussion was created from comments split from: Changing out the Alde fluid..

Misssubaru

I absolutely can not get the heat on in my 2021 Tab 320S boondock 
it was working great and suddenly stopped. I checked the glycol level and it appeared low, so I added more just above minimum level.
still no heat. I check all fuse’s especially that glass one. All good. I boosted the Alde to reset the controls. No heat. I tried elevating the tongue up for 15 minutes then to the lowest position. No heat. I checked to see if my pump was working and with my stethoscope I was able to hear that it’s running. The glycol is warm in the reservoir and the black tubing to the brass air thing is very warm. I took off the passenger side wood and exposed the heating coils. I did not feel heat after waiting an hour. I’m waiting to hear back from Alde to see what they recommend. Could it be that there’s a Hugh air bubble? I’m so disappointed that this hasn’t resolved.
any recommendations from anyone?
thanks

Dalehelman

Are you heating with gas or electric? If gas make sure you have plenty. Light the stove to check.

Grumpy_G

I'm half deaf and I can hear the pump running without getting close to it so I wonder if the pump is locked up and your stethoscope is picking humming from the motor windings or somewhere else. 

ScottG

@Misssubaru, when the pump is running there should also some noticeable movement of the glycol in the reservoir. Do you see any evidence of that?

Tenacity

I am having the same problem (as Misssubaru) on my 2020 320S Boondock: plenty of hot water, but no heater (it’s not heating the air in the room). There is no movement in the glycol tank (no bubbling noises). 

Fuses are good, I’ve pulled the plugs on the unit under the bench, I’ve hit the reset, tilted the RV, ran the Alde3020 on “continuous” for awhile…no joy. 

Still searching the forum, but if you’ve got any ideas, I’d love to hear them! Thanks! 

Donna

pthomas745

No heat from the vents scattered around the trailer?  Can't feel anything at the convector under the passenger side bench? Have you reached down and felt/listened to the pump running?

The Alde heats the trailer by heating glycol, and then distributing the glycol to the convectors.  A sure sign of not having enough glycol in the system is heat not being distributed.  So, let the system cool down and check your glycol expansion tank.

Bayliss

@Tenacity and @Misssubaru, you may/likely have already done this, and it may not be the issue, but, just in case...........make sure that the Alde control/display panel is set to "Therm" (not "Continuous") and adjust your temperature to what you want it to be to heat the trailer.

If the temperature setting is currently set higher than the current temperature inside ambient temperature, then it won't kick on (i.e., start heating.)  It will only start heating the cabin when the cabin's ambient temperature drops below the temperature you have set on the Alde control/display panel.

Also, if the temperature inside the trailer is higher than that set on the control/display panel while you are testing it (e.g., in the afternoon), you'll have to drop the temperature setting on the panel below the current cabin temperature to get the Alde to start heating the trailer during your test.

Tenacity

Thanks, Bayliss. It's set on THERM, and I fully understand about ambient temperature, etc.

I've been living in the RV full-time for the past couple of years and this isn't the first time this has happened.  In the past, I've been able to pull the plug under the bench or hit the reset button But none of those tricks are working. 

Here's the thing: USUALLY you can hear the boiler kick on.  It's subtle and very quiet, but there are a series of clicks and humming as the boiler becomes active.  Then the glycol unit starts to "bubble".  But I'm not hearing ANY of these noises.  

The valve near the boiler is hot, and the water gets hot. (And my water range temp is set in the middle). 

Currently plugged into shore power, but the issue began while I was boondocking, immediately after running low on glycol.  I'm at a loss as to how to proceed.  

Sharon_is_SAM

If the glycol reservoir was empty or very low, it is possible you have entrained air, hence the lack of circulating heat.  Air lock is my guess.

Tenacity

Setting the thermostat to "continuous" for a few minutes would have cleared that, right? (I've tried that)

I've also tried tilting the RV one way and then the other.

(Also, I believe my model of RV has self-bleeding valves?)

Tenacity

pthomas745 Yep - Checked all that.  It was working fine until the glycol ran low. I've tried tilting, pulling the plugs under the bench, hitting the reset button... 

bergger

They all should have just one self bleeder.  Its a large brass upright valve right at the Alde.  All the other bleeder valves are manual.  If your getting hot water but no heat then you have an air lock or the pump is not working. 

Make sure you have enough glycol in the system by looking at the reservoir.  If so then turn the pump to continuous.  You should see movement in the glycol tank pretty much immediately.  If no movement turn the pump off and check the pump speed on the actual pumps.  There is a tiny red knob you can turn. I usually have to put my cell phone by it so I can actually see it!  I think I have mine set to 2.5 or 3.  Make sure it is not turned all the way down.  Turn it up to max, I think that is 5, and turn it back on to continuous to see if you get movement in the tank.  If not but the pump is running then I too suspect an air block.  You'll want to check each convector to see which ones have bleeder valves.  Sorry but I only know where they all are in a 2021 400.  Once you find them open them with the pump running, I recommend doing this when the system is cold,  keep them open until fluid comes out then close them.  Try catching the fluid in a small cup if you can.  You can also check the auto bleeder and make sure it is not locked up.  I believe some people in older units have had that issue from the valve not being vertical??

If you turn the pump on and can't hear it running at all then the pump is probably bad.  

The self bleeder valve is the round brass thing at the top of the photo.  Search on the forum for issues with this.  I think some people had to lightly tap it with a wrench to get unlocked??


Here is a convector with a manual bleeder valve.  Simply turn the knob on top to open and close it. 

Tenacity

bergger Mine looks a little different.  I do see the brass thing, but nowhere do I see any type of bleed valve, or anything to "unscrew".  It's solid.

Here's a question: Should there be glycol in that clear tube?  
I do see SOME glycol in the tube, but I also see AIR.
Is this normal? or is this my problem?

Tenacity

Also, the 320 Tab is different from the 400.  I don't have access to the "fins".  I know where they are, but they are not accessible.

And from what I've read, there aren't any bleed valves on the 320. (Please correct me if I'm wrong!)

Bayliss

@Tenacity, based on the info that you were "running low" on glycol, I'm thinking you may have air in the system, which may be preventing the glycol from circulating.

Again, just guessing, but maybe that is why you have hot water, yet feel no heat in the cabin.  Although the glycol is heating the water tank, it is not circulating through the glycol lines and in turn not making it to the convectors (metal fins) to heat the camper interior.  Essentially, that is what happens when you use the "boost" mode for the hot water, because the glycol stops circulating throughout the trailer for 30 minutes or so and focuses the heating of the glycol around the hot water tank.

The following discussion may help.  It includes a description of how to resolve a "persistent air lock."  The same information is in the Alde manual, so review that as well.

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/7797/automatic-bleeder-valve#latest

One thing you might try first is to temporarily change the Alde control panel circulation setting to "Cont" (Continuous) and then manually adjust the Circulation Pump setting to a higher number (4 or 5) and then run the Alde with those settings for about five minutes.  That may get any air bubbles out of the glycol line.  Before manually changing the Circulation Pump setting, make a note of what it is currently set at (should be around 1.5 to 2) so that you can return it to that setting.  The easiest way to remembr the setting is to take a photograph of it.  Also, when you are done, don't forget to return the setting on the Alde panel to "Therm."

Here's a discussion about the setting on the Circulation Pump:

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/6203/alde-circ-pump-setting/p2

If none of the above works, you may need to "bleed" the system to get air out of the glycol line.  If you are not comfortable doing that, you can take it to a dealer that can service the Alde.

Here's a discussions about bleeding the system.  But, again, review the Alde manual for details on how to bleed the system.  You can also use the "Search" function at the top of each Forum page to find similar discussions using terms like "bleed," "bleeding," or "bleeding the Alde."

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/526/the-need-to-bleed/p1

The following discussion is also worth a read.  It is a longer one, so get your popcorn ready.  I suggest that you take the time to read all these discussions (along with the Alde manual) for helpful info on how the Alde operates.

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/12778/alde-3020-heat-only-from-bed-vents/p1

Good luck!

bergger

Some of the valves have a bleeder tube, the valve is on the end of it. It’s hard to tell from your pic and again I’m not totally familiar with the 320 but that looks like it may just be a glycol drain tube that runs out the floor of the trailer. If so it should be empty. 

Tenacity

Thanks everybody! All roads lead to Bleeder Valves so it's time to find them. 

Bayliss

@Tenacity, I'm not sure if it has any connection to your "no heat" issue, but below is a link to another discussion that is worth reviewing.  If for nothing else, then for general knowledge.

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/13423/alde-automatic-air-bleeder-valve-improper-installation#latest

Travelin3D

@Tenacity, the manual bleeder valve in the 320 (at least in my 2020) is located way down in the cavity below the passenger side speaker. If you remove the opposite triangular panel - and have skinny arms - you may be able to reach down and feel the valve. Here’s a pic. I currently have the whole rear shelf lid and cubby temporarily removed so it’s easy to access.

Tenacity

Yes! I found it! Thanks for the post!