Very stubborn Trailer Hitch Coupler

Happy

Well, so here's an update: After all these encouraging comments I went outside to see if I could try again. I pulled the latch, it slid right off. .... Sheesh. I worked up quite a sweat last night in the dark trying to get this thing unhitched. By the light of day it was a cinch. I have NO idea why....  But I'm really appreciative of all the knowledge and experiences shared here.  Everyone is AWESOME.

Nomad

It's magic :-)

TerryV6

Ours was very stubborn at first too.  Our dealer had us try it and seemed amused by our difficulty.  I followed Verna's advice about vasoline and actually, after a few trips, the problem went away...

Lil_Lucy

Since the center of the hitch ball needs to line up with the center of the hitch coupler mechanism to work properly, I took a paint pen and marked the spots that need to be in line. This really helps when hooking up. As far as releasing the coupler; as others have said here, it does loosen up over time and it's a good idea to keep it lubricated.

80DAWG

Just bought a t@b 400 boondock light 2020.  Literally got it home last night. Unhooked no issues. This morning was headed to trout fish and camp. Stuck in my yard cannot get the coupler to lock on the ball. I have tried every trick suggested, pulled up, pulled back, etc. The yard is really unlevel, but really?

Homebodyatheart

I spray mine with silicone spray to keep it moving smoothly. Maybe that would work? Good luck!

Bayliss

@80DAWG, this doesn't solve your current issue, but since your yard is really unlevel, and if in the future you will be parking the trailer where you plan to store it, you might want to place some leveler blocks under the trailer wheel(s) and get your trailer reasonably level to assist in releasing the coupler.  You probably want the trailer fairly level anyway during storage.

gulfarea

I have had 2 tabs, I found that if I pull a little on it with the TV no problem, also the tong must be very near the rear of the ball, (not pushing on the latch with the ball) if it is I can't latch or unlatch. Art

Sharon_is_SAM

@80DAWG, we run into this problem if we use levelers under the TaB wheel.  We lower the tongue unto the ball and pull off the levelers.  At that point, we are level enough to close the coupler.  In your yard, just pull the TaB a little ways, then stop and see if you can’t close the coupler.

Verna

Patience is king. It took me a total of 5 hours to get unhitched the first time. 2.5 hrs the first night, slept on it and 2.5 hrs the next morning. I discovered (finally!) the truck and the 400 were not level with each other. I moved the truck and 400 about 4’ forward and the hitch released. After that, I parked about 4’ from where I had been parking my T@B S Max. 

Bayliss

@80DAWG, I think this video has been posted on the forum before, but it is worth reviewing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zq3f8b37laQ

jkjenn

Lil_Lucy said:

Since the center of the hitch ball needs to line up with the center of the hitch coupler mechanism to work properly, I took a paint pen and marked the spots that need to be in line. This really helps when hooking up. As far as releasing the coupler; as others have said here, it does loosen up over time and it's a good idea to keep it lubricated.

This is such a splendid idea and really helpful for when other people are guiding you into place. I am going to do this!

BrianZ

What always seems to work for me is this..
I try to make sure I leave the hitch ball as far forward as possible inside the T@B's coupler before trying to unhitch.  This is easier when level or facing slightly uphill as follows.. 

If I have backed into a spot, I  make sure to pull forward a few inches, then with foot on brake, set the parking brake before shifting into park & releasing brake.  If I were to just put in park & let off brake pedal, the car may roll back slightly as there is still some play in the transmission; and this would be enough to push the ball rearward inside the coupler & cause difficulty getting it unhitched.

This issue becomes worse if backing uphill into a spot (i.e., facing downhill), as the weight of the trailer will tend to prevent the ball from resting against the front end of the coupler where you want it, even if you have pulled forward a bit.  In this case, try chocking the front of the trailer wheels and pull forward slightly until you feel resistance, then set the parking brake to hold the ball forward in the coupler.

The coupler always seems to release much easier when the ball is in the front of it as far as possible.

jkjenn

I will add, weight forward on the hitch is a problem for releasing the coupler. I have found that if I pull forward using the A Denson leceler it is easier to work with than if I back up onto the leveler 

atlasb

To make sure that I had fully engaged the ball, I used to jack the hitch up enough to see the tow vehicle raise.  After time, I considered this might be causing additional wear to the internal cogs of the hitch.  Since then to make sure that the hitch is totally engaged, I look at the rear of the ball from underneath to make sure the hitch has engaged the ball underneath and not sitting on top of the ball, before inserting the lock into the hitch release lever.  I have had it sitting on top of the ball when I thought it was engaged.  Not a good way to check your safety chains!

Bayliss

Great tips @Lil_Lucy and @BrianZ.  I agree with @jkjenn and will take advantage of those great ideas.  Thanks!

BrianZ

RE: "A Denson leceler", I think @jkjenn means "Anderson Leveler", the ingeneous curved red one.

Even if one backs up onto the Anderson, once it is chocked with the matching smaller piece, the vehicle can be eased forward a half inch (or until resistance is felt) to release the trailer weight on the ball & position the ball more forward in the coupler.  That is the root cause of difficulty unhitching - having the ball too far to the rear or the coupler & weight of the trailer too far forward against the back of the ball.

jkjenn

BrianZ said:

RE: "A Denson leceler", I think @jkjenn means "Anderson Leveler", the ingeneous curved red one.

Even if one backs up onto the Anderson, once it is chocked with the matching smaller piece, the vehicle can be eased forward a half inch (or until resistance is felt) to release the trailer weight on the ball & position the ball more forward in the coupler.  That is the root cause of difficulty unhitching - having the ball too far to the rear or the coupler & weight of the trailer too far forward against the back of the ball.

Nice interpretation skills! Yes, absolutely!

trimtab

"That is the root cause of difficulty unhitching - having the ball too far to the rear or the coupler & weight of the trailer too far forward against the back of the ball."
Does that mean there is almost no tolerance and that the exact positioning is necessary to get it released?  That is the pain the the ***

Denny16

Yes an no, it has a tight tolerance, which eliminates some trailer hitch slop, and it tighter than other setups, but ny hitch will jam if the YV drawbar ball is too far rearward.  It is simple, set the trailer where you want it, then pull forward slightly to ease the ball tomthe for war part of the hitch, and release.  I have to do this with the equipment hauler trailers I use also.  The hitch will release every time.
cheers

mntrails

I would also add that a healthy coating of wheel bearing grease or any other heavy duty grease on the ball seems to help.  My driveway has a slight incline and I backed in the first time coming home.  I had to chock the trailer wheels, then put the TV in neutral and roll forward to take the pressure off the lock.  But the hitch opened up and the ball slipped off ok after that.  I've towed 3 times totaling about 500 miles since getting the T@B and its working better each time.  Also, mine doesn't have to be lined up straight and the trailer can be at a different angle (e.g. after leveling), and it's still unlocking ok provided you take the weight off the lock.

For those that don't like greasy hitch balls, I pop a cheap rubber cover over mine when I'm not towing anything.  Several years ago, I mistakenly picked up a 2-5/16 cover for my 2" ball and it works much easier - it doesn't rub the grease off going on and saves me and my dog from getting grease all over us when around the rear of the TV.... and its never come off yet.

Denny16

A grease cup on the ball is a grand idea, I have one on all my couplers.  Anyone rowing with a dry hitch ball, is just wearing out their coupler prematurely.
cheers

jkjenn

I have used an Andersen Greaseless Tow Ball for 6 years. It is clean and works awesome. 

ScottG

That hitch is a bugaboo. I believe the design is intentional to prevent the trailer from popping off the hitch and rolling forward into your tow vehicle--that is why there must be no forward pressure on the ball in order to release the latch. problem is, too much backward pressure makes the coupler reluctant to come off the ball once it is unlatched.

My usually successful routine is to...

• Position and level the trailer side to side.
• Chock the wheels.
• Pull the T/V forward against the chocks and apply parking brake.
• Lift the hitch latch and lower the tongue jack until it makes contact with the ground.
• Release the parking break and roll back a smidgin to release the forward pressure on the hitch and allow it to rise easily off the ball.
• Unhook safety chains.

It's a multi-step process but less complicated than it sounds once you get the routine down. Much better than the strategy I employed my first season that involved a pry bar and dead blow hammer!  ;-)

MuttonChops

mntrails said:

picked up a 2-5/16 cover for my 2" ball and it works much easier -

Great idea (off chance discovery).
I use grease and use a cap . . . will try larger one.

As for Coupler, once it is mastered it's a good design. Easy to use and more secure than the typical light trailer Coupler. Like some other T@B features has a learning curve. 

Michigan_Mike

I agree with Scott’s advice above and how the hitch is designed.  And inasmuch as the hitch is frustrating to any new owner not familiar with how it operates, resist the temptation to pry on these hitches.  The terrain you are parked on can create difficulty with the hitch releasing too and this is just one of those exercises that requires patience, experience and repetition.  

Verna

To add a bit more to the conversation, the hitch gets easier to release over time when regularly greasing the mechanism and ball, and perhaps the owner gets more experienced at interpreting what action the couple needs to release or engage. 

Denny16

You can practice this but just taking the receiver ball and drawbar (disconnected from the TV) by itself and put it in and out of the trailer hitch, to get a feel for how it works.
cheers

gspdx

jkjenn said:

I have used an Andersen Greaseless Tow Ball for 6 years. It is clean and works awesome. 

Also - if you are using the Andersen Weight Distribution Hitch you are not supposed to grease the ball.  The hitch needs to grip the ball and turn the ball for the anti-sway mechanism to work in this type of hitch.