Battery Recommendations?

DigitalSorceress

I'm personally on the LiFePO4 bandwagon for my future battery needs (will likely wait till I need to replace mine and go for it)

but if you want to do dual 6v, I looked up the batteries @R2DTab suggested .. they're about $279 each on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/VMAXTANKS-Volt-225Ah-AGM-Battery/dp/B009MOR58A

$560 for 225 AH? not bad at all.

They are tempting, but gosh darn, I want LiFePO4s

VictoriaP

DigitalSorceress said:

I'm personally on the LiFePO4 bandwagon for my future battery needs (will likely wait till I need to replace mine and go for it)

but if you want to do dual 6v, I looked up the batteries @R2DTab suggested .. they're about $279 each on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/VMAXTANKS-Volt-225Ah-AGM-Battery/dp/B009MOR58A

$560 for 225 AH? not bad at all.

They are tempting, but gosh darn, I want LiFePO4s

I do too, but having just shelled out an awful lot of cash on trailer + accessories, I’m opting to wait on lithiums. The current 105ah AGM + solar suitcase + tiny propane generator as backup charger will do fine for now. I’m already pushing it on my tongue weight, or I absolutely would have gone the dual 6v route.

DigitalSorceress

@VictoriaP  Yeah weight is an issue I just looked up those 6v AGMs.. WOW 72 lbs EACH! 

The BattleBorn 100AH 12V models are 29 each.. that is.. I knew LiFePO4 were lighter but wow...

I was sorely tempted by those 6V ones but not at that weight.

If I weren't worried about needing a matched pair, I'd consider buying one LiFePO4 now and adding a second later.. but I really would want to do them in parallel so .. /sigh

jules2go

Sharon_is_SAM said:

Make sure you get “fresh” battery.  Check the production dates.

@Sharon_is_SAM What would be considered "fresh"? 

Dutch061

As you can see in the photo below, I got on the Lithium wagon, heavily. We like to be off grid and not deal with battery issues.



Brad

Sharon_is_SAM

@jules2go - apparently batteries can be activated and charged at the factory vs activation at the end supplier.  An activated AGM is considered fully charged, but will discharge over time at a rate of 1-2% a month.  Just ask how long it has been on their shelf and if it is fully charged.  Newer is better.  

Shadrax

I wanted to upgrade the original battery since day one, but it just kept working fine.  We took it to Alaska, the Yukon, and the arctic circle on a 3 month trip and never needed more.  Driving during the day always recharged it and the 100 Watt solar panel helped when we didn’t have shore power.  We find that unless you need an air conditioner, microwave or hairdryer when without shore power, which would require a really expensive and heavy system, a small battery is fine.  Also we never ran out of propane or needed a generator.  We finally upgraded to a Renology 12 volt 100AH AGM, but less expensive brands are fine too.  We keep it trickle charged year-round and have not felt the need for anything more complicated or expensive.  We could easily add a second battery if needed. I studied just about all options and would have enjoyed installing something more, but we have never been dissatisfied with just the one battery, portable solar panel and mppt charger, and the Outback and tow vehicle charging systems.

ScottG

Thanks for your comment, @Shadrax --it woke me to the recollection that I started this discussion almost three years ago.

I've always been an advocate of figuring out one's needs before dropping big coin on equipment that may prove to be overkill. A lot depends on how you camp, how much time you spend on the road, and how much sunshine you can harvest. You are not the first to report camping long term with just the stock battery.

Since I started this discussion in early 2019, I squeezed two more seasons (for a total of five) out of that $90 group 27 wet cell. Although it still had some life, this year I relegated it to "spare battery" status and replaced it with a similar group 31 wet cell. While upgrading to dual GC/AGM/LiPo/whatever was certainly tempting, it was hard to justify given that I've managed perfectly well for so long with just a basic (and comparatively cheap) set-up.

morey000

ScottG said:

While upgrading to dual GC/AGM/LiPo/whatever was certainly tempting, it was hard to justify given that I've managed perfectly well for so long with just a basic (and comparatively cheap) set-up.

Same.  I just don't use much power when boondocking and I've got a 100w solar and plenty of sun.  Never had a problem with my 3 year old stock 75Ahr battery.  But- with 100 Ahr Lithium batteries now down to about $300- just seems like a no brainer.  Some models fit right into the Group 27 box too.  

Denny16

If it’s not broke, don’t fix it…
cheers

Slackers

I'll straddle the fence on this one.  As long as the OEM 75Ahr does the job we'll stick with it, but once it starts failing the Lithium option will be preferred.

SolidCamper

Regarding battery replacement, does anyone have a definitive answer as to whether the convertor in my 2020 Tab320S will require a special add-on device to charge a Lithium Ion battery.  My RV Mechanic online says the Lith-Ion needs a charging rate 14.4 to 14.8 v.  

pthomas745

Not sure when the "lithium converters" began to be installed, but get in there and look at the model number  and we can check.  In the "lithium converter" there is a small switch that controls "lithium to  lead acid."

If you have solar:  most of the newer solar controllers have lithium settings that will completely charge a lithium battery.

Any of the newer eternal battery chargers can completely charge a lithium battery.

Even  my "old" converter in  my 2017 gets my lithium battery close to 85 to 90 percent of charge on shore power.  Since most of my camping is using solar to keep it charged, I don't worry about the converter.

Lots of threads like this one with the same ideas.

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/11695/lithium-battery-and-converter-charger-advice-please/p1

Dutch061

@SolidCamper, it was 2021 before the Converter was "lithium capable" with the switch to toggle between SLA/AGM and Lithium. 

As @pthomas745 mentioned and liked, there are other ways to charge. It really comes down to where, how, and how long you camp. I have 400 Ah of Battleborn batteries in our 2020 400 BDL, it has 192 watts of solar from the factory.

But since we camp most often in forest, it is not often that I actually have enough sun to do much. So, I have a 60 Amp converter within inches of the batteries and use a generator if needed. I have enough capacity to go for several days without bothering, which was the goal. I felt it was the better option VS additional portable solar panels etc.

Brad

Sharon_is_SAM

2022 models have the WFCO converter with the lithium mode.  

@Dutch061 - so, this may be obvious, but does the lower voltage on the regular converter explain the incomplete charge of the lithium battery?  Will the lower voltage eventually fully charge the lithium?

Denny16

@Dutch061 - so, this may be obvious, but does the lower voltage on the regular converter explain the incomplete charge of the lithium battery?  Will the lower voltage eventually fully charge the lithium?

Brad, No, it only charges the lithium batteries to about 80-90% charge level.  This, however, is the recommended charge level store a lithium battery when not in use.  If you have solar panels on your TaB, the solar will charge thr lithium battery to 100% charge and balance the cells.
 Cheers 

kottum

Our Feb 2022 build-date T@b 320s BD has a WFCO 8735-AD converter with output of 14.6 VDC or 13.6 VDC.  There is no lithium toggle switch, but I understand it senses our two 100 ah lithium batteries and switches automatically to 14.6 VDC output.

I tend to side with Dutch061 on battery vs solar expenditure.  Start with plenty of battery capability and worry less about managing battery use/chasing solar exposure when on a campout.

I don't know what we'll need yet, we're our first long trip, Mesa, AZ to Minnesota.  Every camper is different, we'll see what serves us best as we go long.

Doug K

Dutch061

As @Denny16 already responded, the lower voltage is the reason that a converter for SLA/AGM will not fully charge a Lithium battery bank. This is also why in most instances that if you wish your TV to charge them properly that a DC-to-DC Controller is necessary.

Battleborn mentions using a DC-to-DC Controller but more to prevent drawing too much amperage from the alternator. What I have found with my 2021 F-250 is that the charge rate was less than 4 Amps due to the voltage difference of the TV and the voltage needed to charge Lithium. After adding the DC-to-DC Controller, it charges at 18 Amps verified by my BMV-712 Shunt. 

As far as storage and Battleborn, here is the quote from the Battleborn manual.

Storage

"Storage could not be easier simply charge the batteries to at least a 50% state-of-charge and disconnect from any charge or discharge."

Brad