Fresh Water Fill Cover

ktsame · November 2019

I did search the forum and found some discussion about a broken fresh water fill cover. It seemed at that time that there wasn't a replacement part available but I just wanted to put it out there again, in case someone has found a source for the cover to the fresh water fill. Thanks in advance.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/29/ravu2zye0u8d.jpg

B0atguy · November 2019

Also trying to find a replacement for this over the past few weeks . Mine is fine , but I was looking for a black one . Can’t find a source for these anywhere as the parent company was sold , and is now owned by Thunderbird LLC . Not sure if they eliminated this product . I have not checked nucamp , as I am looking for one that isn’t factory white . Elsie at nucamp May be able to help you .
In the end , I am in the process of replacing mine with a traditional RV style water tank fill with an actual cap , don’t care for that unique nucamp fill . Feels like it’s going to break every time I use it !
If I am able to retrofit a standard RV style fill port , I will have my old one one (2019 , so not that old !) available if you need one ! Will let you know if I can part with it when I am done with the changeover .

Tabaz · November 2019

B0atguy - I removed the five screws, carefully masked the area around the cover, and painted it with grey plastic-friendly paint to match my trim. Immediately after each coat, I pushed the bottom of the vent cap in with a dental tool to keep the paint from sealing the opening. Looks fantastic. Painted all the other white trim pieces to match (door handle, A/C vent cover, Adle exhause, outdoor shower, etc.). One of the best mods I've done.

B0atguy · November 2019

Tabaz said:

B0atguy - I removed the five screws, carefully masked the area around the cover, and painted it with grey plastic-friendly paint to match my trim. Immediately after each coat, I pushed the bottom of the vent cap in with a dental tool to keep the paint from sealing the opening. Looks fantastic. Painted all the other white trim pieces to match (door handle, A/C vent cover, Adle exhause, outdoor shower, etc.). One of the best mods I've done.

Thanks Tabaz .

Our 320 is the grey with black trim color scheme , and I am growing tired of looking at the white hardware pieces . Kind of clashes wit the black and grey , lol . I have been able to find most of the items via direct replacement in black , but there are a few I can’t seem to locate in black . Refrigerator vents, a/c vent cover , power input , water fill port etc. I did find a black alde (and light and dark grey) exhaust cover but they are from overseas only and $$$ with shipping . I need to paint the a/c cover ,alde cover and refrigerator vents , everything else I am replacing with an exact match in black , or a close enough match to swap (like the water fill port, etc) .
Going to use Krylon Fusion . What kind of paint did you use, or recommend ?
Thanks !

ktsame - I will likely swap out the water fill port by the weekend , so I will let you know if I don’t need the original nucamp water fill port if the new one fits o.k. .
Btw , it’s no easy task getting to the water fill port , and city water hook up !

Estancio · November 2019

Replaced mine entirely with this. Bought clear vinyl hose to connect it to the fresh water tank. FAR BETTER THAN ORIGINAL!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5SOXNU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

B0atguy · November 2019

Estancio said:

Replaced mine entirely with this. Bought clear vinyl hose to connect it to the fresh water tank. FAR BETTER THAN ORIGINAL!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5SOXNU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yep, that’s the style I am replacing mine with too , only in black .

ktsame · November 2019

@BOatguy I would take you up on that offer. Just let me know what you want for it. Now that I know how fragile the edges are, I will be more careful. Good luck with your project.

TabberJohn · November 2019

The original is a common filler inlet on older RVs especially van conversions out of Elkhart.
My guess is any junk yard with Class B's on the lot will have the part, if you need to go that route.
As far as replacements go screw caps are the norm now.
This type also looks interesting should you want the option to pour from a bucket:
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Fresh-Water/Valterra/R920TW.html
One problem with a new model replacement is the screw holes won't match.

Tabaz · November 2019

FYI - Mine was glued on in such a way as to prevent any attempt to remove it from the side of the trailer.

Tabaz · November 2019

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/uz/4vy84im02de5.jpg

Here is the paint - worked GREAT. Perfectly matches the factory gray trim.

B0atguy · November 2019

Tabaz said:

FYI - Mine was glued on in such a way as to prevent any attempt to remove it from the side of the trailer.

I think you are correct Tabaz . Looks like this might be more challenging to remove without breaking it , than I realized. Every other thing on the outside comes right off with just a little effort and has some sealant behind it . This freshwater fill port seems to be held in place with much more or better sealant than everything else . I am sure it will come off , but I am trying to gently get this off without breaking it , so it can be reused ...... ahem......ktsame

.

Have to think about this a bit more ..........

Thanks for the paint tip .

Tabaz · November 2019

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/h7/cz1kja705zxe.jpg

I was thinking maybe the cover screws onto the wall. No such luck based on this photo.

Marceline · November 2019

ktsame said:

I did search the forum and found some discussion about a broken fresh water fill cover. It seemed at that time that there wasn't a replacement part available but I just wanted to put it out there again, in case someone has found a source for the cover to the fresh water fill. Thanks in advance.

My understanding is that the cover isn’t available as a separate part. I ended up getting the entire fill assembly from NuCamp.

Marceline · November 2019

B0atguy said:

Tabaz said:

FYI - Mine was glued on in such a way as to prevent any attempt to remove it from the side of the trailer.

I think you are correct Tabaz . Looks like this might be more challenging to remove without breaking it , than I realized. Every other thing on the outside comes right off with just a little effort and has some sealant behind it . This freshwater fill port seems to be held in place with much more or better sealant than everything else . I am sure it will come off , but I am trying to gently get this off without breaking it , so it can be reused ...... ahem......ktsame .

Have to think about this a bit more ..........

Thanks for the paint tip .

I tried to remove mine but it seemed to be very firmly glued. Maybe epoxy. I ultimately gave up.

TabberJohn · November 2019

ktsame said:

Now that I know how fragile the edges are, I will be more careful.

As long as you never try to pry it open with any type of tool it should work fine for years.
You may need to punch it occasionally to pop it open. Just make sure you do that near the triangle on the bottom where it says "push".

B0atguy · November 2019

My thoughts on this , is I may just paint the dang thing in place as Tabaz did. I am afraid to break this thing only to find out the standard rv style fill port won’t even fit . I tried prying it, and using all the leverage I could from the inside and couldn’t budge it . Was going’s to whack it from the inside with a hammer , but ................
Sorry, ktsame, I think I may just “let sleeping dogs lie” . Breaking this fill port upon removal isn’t going’s to help anyone !
Maybe you can order a new complete assy. from nuCamp and see how hard it is to get the old one out , and how much it gets broken on the way out . If you have a direct new replacement , it really won’t matter if the old one get broken anyway .
Good luck !

TabberJohn · November 2019

Haven't tried to take one apart. What holds the flip lid inside the mouth of the filler? (see pdf)
Assuming it does come apart my thought was the flip lid is the only part you need from a junkyard.

ktsame · November 2019

The the lid just pops out of the filler. I only need the lid. It didn’t break when I was opening it. It broke when I was filling and the tubing I was using to fill with put some pressure on it and the side cracked off. The lid is still functional but a little unsightly.

ktsame · November 2019

@BOatguy - no problem. I might try the junk yard suggestion.

tybladesmith · November 2019

Looking at the photo Tabaz posted above, hose clamps can be seen on the fill hose. The fill hose and cover are assembled before the outer skin is installed, so the clamps are not oriented for easy loosening. Don't loose your tools in the abyss. I used a 1/4" drive socket set to get at mine after mastering contortion 101. Also see @BrianZ Fresh Water Leak - Fixed Again -page 3 for 4" hatch. Another possible solution.

NomadPilgrim · December 2019

Mine is the biggest {pain} on the camper! Always comes apart and I have to punch it back in place. After four years of annoyance I will look into the new replacement. Thanks!

Tabaz · December 2019

The “swivel” cover always seemed gimmicky to me. Maybe just replace it with a rubber (foam?) insert that stays in place during transit? Not sure if such a fix would work with the bleed hose. Just an idea.

ScottG · December 2019

I like the swivel cover in concept, but the execution of it is a little flimsy. I'd pay better bucks for something that worked in a similar manner but closed tighter, was sturdier, and didn't leak around the edges. Staying tuned.

B0atguy · December 2019

I had the idea to change it out with a standard rv fill port (with vent) . It looks like it should have been a easy replacement , but I could not get the dang oem fill port off the side of the T@B ! They must use some serious sealant on it. I have had every other part off the outside of T@B , and this oem fill port was the ONLY thing that I could not get off !!!
I did not want to break it , so I just left it in place and painted it (like Tabaz did) !

If anyone comes up with a way to remove it without breaking it , let us know !!!

Verna · December 2019

I used a metal putty knife and gently pulled up, working my way around the outside, each time pushing the blade in just a bit further. Tome consuming, but patience certainly worked.

The problem I ran into was there wasn’t enough slack on the hose attached to the rear of the water fill. Marvin, at the factory, knew the secret way to extend the hose and he finished the job for me.

RedDoorGals · August 2021

I'm once again late the conversation...but I broke the lid off the freshwater port while trying to fill it during our recent trip. Duct-taped the lid in place which worked for a week plus of transit...until it was 106 degrees (air temp, not pavement temp) and I think the duct-tape just couldn't hold in the heat....lost the whole shebang somewhere on I-90 in E Montana! So now, 2 years after this initial post...does anyone have any new ideas (besides the junk yard option) for replacing the lid to the fresh water portal? Or should I go get a large rubber plug and drill a cord hole through it and attach it to the side?
Anyone???

Thanks

Sharon_is_SAM · August 2021

Bite the bullet and install a Valterra Water Fill available at Amazon. It has a threaded cap. The screws that hold it in won’t align perfectly with the original holes, so you may need to make another hole.

Bayliss · August 2021

@RedDoorGals, here's a related discussion thread:

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/4671/replacing-the-gravity-water-fill/p1

Parlando · April 2022

I have a 2015 320 T@B Outback, no bathroom. My fill cap cover recently broke. I took a large cork and wrapped another layer of duct tape around it and filled the hole. But then I wanted to replace it. I found the replacement at Apache Camping Center for $25 plus $15 shipping. Here is the replacement process that I devised. To remove the old cover:

I removed the 5 screws
I used a thin trim knife remover to gently pry the old cover off
I tried to pull the old cover out in order to remove it from the hose. (Don't do this, because I discovered that there isn't enough play, and you could create a leak if you pull too much)
Peeking behind the fill and by looking in the lower cabinet under the sink I saw that the short flexible hose is connected to rigid PVC. That's why you shouldn't yank on the fill port too much.
I cut the PVC with a pair of ratcheting PVC cutters. That allowed me to pull the fill cover out and gave me enough room to work with it.
I loosened the hose clamp. The barbed end of the fill cover would not come off the hose. So I heated water to 190 degrees and poured it over the hose. I could then work it off.
I poured hot water over the hose again and I was able to slide the new fill onto the clamp easily. I re-tightened the hose clamp.
The sealant on the T@B behind the old fill assembly was difficult to remove, so I put on some DAP Caulk Be Gone and waited 90 minutes for it to work.
The old sealant came off much easier, and then I cleaned the surface with alcohol.
I lined up the new fill assembly with the screw holes in the T@B. I make registration marks on the assembly and next to that on the T@B.
I asked a neighbor to keep an eye on the registration marks, because I knew when I reconnected the PVC pipes it would twist out of alignment.
Back under the cabinet I cleaned the PVC pipes with alcohol. I dry fitted to make sure everything would fit properly.
I applied the PVC primer and glue to the PVC pipes and joint. (see Youtube instructions for Oatey PVC primer and glue). Wear a good VOC filter mask, wear gloves, and put cardboard or material underneath the mess to catch the drips.
I pressed the PVC into the joints and asked my neighbor to direct my twists to align the fill cap properly. I held the joint for 30 seconds per directions.
Back outside I filled the screw holes with small balls of steel wool as suggested by Creed at NuCamp. Do this rather than using larger screws.
I then applied ProFlex RV flexible sealant behind the cover flange. I used a small artist's pallet knife.
I press the assembly in and tightened the screws.

That's it. I'll wait a day before testing and making sure that I didn't create a leak in the PVC pipe joints when I first was pulling on the old assembly. I'll post a few pictures.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/hn/w13neibxri6o.jpeg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/qx/60wfikh10zjo.jpeg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/pi/ofbodq8w0d05.jpeg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/ae/jo40xga65mt7.jpeg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/88/6jotzpcz4ic9.jpeg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/ol/dtmq9hmjtyhe.jpeg

Parlando · April 2022

In retrospect, having done all of this, I probably should have looked for a better fresh water fill cover. But maybe some of these points will help the next person who wants to tackle it.

Denny16 · April 2022

Your repair came out very nice, and restored the TaB to original appearance.
Cheers

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