New T@b - can't get Alde working

TerryV6 said:

.....Someone should write an idiots guide.   

Like this?  http://www.tab-rv.com/forum#/discussion/499/owners-manual-for-an-early-2014-s-m-x/p1

My first glass fuse was the one that was blown. Both Mike and I had a common blown fuse and the only reason we could think of was that neither of us turned the Alde off when disconnecting. After that, I always turned it off when I had the analog thermostat. 

I don't know how many times the first fuse in our Alde has blown. This year I have only set it at one bolt, and so far, no blown fuse. That is both on house power and 30 amp. It keeps us warm and cosie so that is where I am setting it. I have become a real expert at changing that fuse though. 

@ST_Bob, will you come with us on our walkthrough when we pick up our T@B in a couple of weeks???

Mr_Mrs_Gnome said:

@ST_Bob, maybe LG can get you and Jenn to write the manuals and do the videos!Like you said, we are first time RVr's coming from Ultralight Backpacking and tent camping, where toilet paper is a luxury. Ask me how to start a fire in a rainstorm or build a snow cave and I can do that, but get a Norcold or Alde started and keep them running? I'm a complete Newb. Thanks for all your technical knowledge and insight!

You'll get there. I went from wintering in a Silver Shadow teardrop last winter and only knowing how to spell "T@B". I was convinced the Alde was super complicated, but with the experience of reading everything on the forum a year ago (yes, I did do that--it helps), the mystery of the Alde has turned into a wonderful invention that kept me warm all winter, heated water for my showers and dishwashing, all loaded into this cute thing called a T@B. 

ST_Bob...100Ah... From a group 24?  Like Valence...?
https://www.valence.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Valence_Module_Range_Sept-2015.pdf
Is there a downside besides cost?

JustJohn said:

Verna said:

My first glass fuse was the one that was blown. Both Mike and I had a common blown fuse and the only reason we could think of was that neither of us turned the Alde off when disconnecting. After that, I always turned it off when I had the analog thermostat. 

Verna and Mike reflect my experience with the Alde fuses. I have had to replace the fuses only once and that was when I connected to a power source with the heat and hot water setting on, first power switch off. Since then I have made sure all Alde switches were in the off position when connecting or disconnecting any power source and no more blown fuses in 14 nights during 4 trips since I have had my T@B. I know this only anecdotal but it appears that all switches must be off, not just the first power switch to be safe. I don't see this as a problem just an operational protocol.

John, if you change to a digital thermostat, that real sensitive situation seems to go away (knock on wood!). I have left mine on ever since I forgot to turn it off when I changed campgrounds a couple of times. The only other time I blew the 1st fuse was installing the thermostat--I missed the instruction that said to power the Alde down.  

When I store the T@B after I get home and get all of the AZ dust out of it, I will turn the digital thermostat off at that time. No sense in making the Battery Tender work harder than it has to. 

Bobbo said:

We have RV'd for the last 8 years in a 32 foot Class C motorhome. I learned EARLY that you turn off everything that runs on 120v before plugging in or unplugging from shore power. Everything. No air conditioner. No water heater. Nothing is on. After a short while, it will become a habit.

This is good advice and a great rule of thumb too is to isolate the trailer from the power source (e.g., the park pedestal/shore power) as this can eliminate problems and help protect the trailer from park electrical problems.  It's a good idea to use a 30 amp RV surge protector to protect the trailer.  


I have seen visible, physical damage to park electrical pedestals from prior campers who accidentally backed their trailers and vehicles into the upright electric pedestals, breaking/bending/distorting the protective covers, etc.  And with that said, you really don't know, nor can see what other damage has taken place and occurred inside these units (damaged wiring, defective ground wires, etc.), so it is a good idea to test the voltage or use a surge protector to protect against these types of issues to ensure personal.  

After reading all the posts, and getting educated in electronics, there is one area no one has addressed as far as I can tell.  IS THERE WATER IN THE ALDE SYSTEM?  (I'm not shouting, just want to raise the question.}  Since it appears that all the fuses are good, the panel is set correctly, it should work If there is water circulating in the system.  In my unit I hear lightly running water when the system is on.  Is it possible the pipe was drained and the valve shut off when winterized and never turned back on again?  I have no clue where the water valve for the Alde is, or which one it is.  Otherwise, I'd try to be of more help.  If someone could take a picture and note which way is on/off it would help too.

Allie - Here's a picture of my Alde. The value in question is right there.  Can't miss it.

This is a photo of their prototype unit (with 15 manual valves).  Thankfully the production models are (slightly) less confusing.

What year T@B?  We have a 2015 M@X-S without the valve.  It was later added as production rolled along, just as tank sensors, etc.  Everything works fine without.

Are you talkin about the freshwater tank or Alde tank?  My Alde tank has a bypass valve in front and bypass in the back, there is a drain valve between the bypass valve and Alde, which also works as a pressure relief water valve, found that out when my defective water pump was putting out to much pressure and blowing my water from the freshwater tank.  There is also an air vent tube coming off the Alde, which helps with draining the Alde tank.  Per Alde, you don't want RV antifreeze in the boiler tank.

With the bypass valves, the drain valve works the same as the drain plug on the standard RV water heater.