Best Of
Re: T@B 400 2019 Tongue Weight
I did experiment with my last trailer that had a dual propane set up. When I removed one full tank it only made a 15 lb TW change.
Re: ballpark weight of tab 320S (with refrigerator, stove, LP, battery)
Here's the response to my question from NUCAMP. "Great question, you are looking around 1985lbs with a full fresh tank" (for TAB 320S)
Re: Tab 400 - Weight-Distribution Hitch Not Recommended Due To C-Channel Construction
Thank you both for replying. The Explorer V6 3.5L TiVCT 4WD w Class III tow package allows a weight-carrying hitch up to 3500 lbs. From 3500 to the max allowable (5000) weight they recommend a weight-distribution hitch. Fords online towing guides don’t exactly sync up (pun intended) with the owners manual. Fords online tow guide leads you to believe that weight-carrying hitches have a tongue max around 200 but rises to 600 with a Weight-distribution hitch.
My dealer said weight distribution hitches aren’t recommended/allowed on the C channel style trailers.
Since the Tab 400 has a dry weight of approx 3000, I plan to buy one and tow with the standard weight-carrying hitch.
My dealer said weight distribution hitches aren’t recommended/allowed on the C channel style trailers.
Since the Tab 400 has a dry weight of approx 3000, I plan to buy one and tow with the standard weight-carrying hitch.
Re: Towing a 320 S with a Toyota Highlander
@forgalsus , if you do not already have blind spot mirrors on your tow vehicle mirrors, get some. l have always had them on my vehicles and they have saved my bacon a number of times when I had to make a quick decision to avoid a traffic hazard, inattentive drivers, or to safely change lanes in heavy or fast traffic. I use the round stick-on type (3" for my half ton Toyota Tundra and 2" for my Subaru Forester.) Mount them on the lower outside corner of both side mirrors for maximum field of view and to retain full visibility in the upper portion of your mirrors. It may take a short time to learn to use them with confidence (including no more having to look over your shoulder, although it doesn't hurt to do that too), but for towing they are a must in my opinion. Even if you have extended tow mirrors, you still should have blind spot mirrors. They are a quick and easy way to see what is next to you (i.e., in your blind spot) while driving. They are also very helpful for backing up. Having towed all size trailers for over 40 years, I would not be without them.
Re: Brain storm idea on wifi 4g boost
Agree. I could be wrong, but I thought the Wboost/Wilson boosters used a different type of coax.N7SHG_Ham said:That does terminate at the outside cable jack. What I don't know is if the coax type is the same or the connectors. You would have to make sure the coax on the booster is of the same impedance as the pre installed TV coax. Your idea may work if everything matches.
Re: surge protector?
@N7SHG_Ham , I recently ordered the Progressive Industries (PI) EMS-HW30C (hardwired Electric Management System) surge protector and it is on its way to my house now.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UC6RSA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Although not "wireless," it is "remote" in the sense that it uses a data cable that looks like a standard phone line cable and can be located in a convenient location for monitoring the surge protector status. I do not know if the PI device has a load side protection, but I didn't say anything about that feature being on the Surge Guard. However, the PI EMS includes a bypass switch. This is a very nice feature, because in the event the EMS is "fried" by an electrical power event, you can bypass the EMS until you are able to obtain and replace the destroyed circuit board (i.e., the EMS has a modular design for easy repair without having to purchase an entirely new unit.) The bypass switch also avoids the need to manually re-connect the T@B power wires (i.e., you don't have to remove the wiring from the EMS to manually bypass it, which is apparently what you had to do before PI added a bypass switch.) [A side benefit of the bypass switch is that if you are powering your T@B with a portable inverter type generator, such as a Honda 2000i, this switch will allow you to bypass the EMS system when you get an "open ground" error, but you will still have the benefit of the surge protector.]
Out of curiosity, which Surge Guard model are you specifically referring to? If it is Model #35530 https://rvpower.southwire.com/products/hardwired-surge-protection/30a-hardwire-model-35530/ the remote monitor is sold separately and also uses a datacom connection.
The PI remote display automatically rotates through a limited amount of information, whereas you must manually scroll through 16 data items with the Surge Guard remote, using a small joystick, which is part of the monitor. I do not know enough about the Surge Guard to assess how helpful or necessary the additional available data may be.
I am familiar with Surge Guard, but I did not realize that they have a hardwired unit until I read your post. Although I am going to stick with the PI system, you have piqued my curiosity about the Surge Guard, so I plan to take a closer look at it. Thank you for making me aware of it. (Greg)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UC6RSA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Although not "wireless," it is "remote" in the sense that it uses a data cable that looks like a standard phone line cable and can be located in a convenient location for monitoring the surge protector status. I do not know if the PI device has a load side protection, but I didn't say anything about that feature being on the Surge Guard. However, the PI EMS includes a bypass switch. This is a very nice feature, because in the event the EMS is "fried" by an electrical power event, you can bypass the EMS until you are able to obtain and replace the destroyed circuit board (i.e., the EMS has a modular design for easy repair without having to purchase an entirely new unit.) The bypass switch also avoids the need to manually re-connect the T@B power wires (i.e., you don't have to remove the wiring from the EMS to manually bypass it, which is apparently what you had to do before PI added a bypass switch.) [A side benefit of the bypass switch is that if you are powering your T@B with a portable inverter type generator, such as a Honda 2000i, this switch will allow you to bypass the EMS system when you get an "open ground" error, but you will still have the benefit of the surge protector.]
Out of curiosity, which Surge Guard model are you specifically referring to? If it is Model #35530 https://rvpower.southwire.com/products/hardwired-surge-protection/30a-hardwire-model-35530/ the remote monitor is sold separately and also uses a datacom connection.
The PI remote display automatically rotates through a limited amount of information, whereas you must manually scroll through 16 data items with the Surge Guard remote, using a small joystick, which is part of the monitor. I do not know enough about the Surge Guard to assess how helpful or necessary the additional available data may be.
I am familiar with Surge Guard, but I did not realize that they have a hardwired unit until I read your post. Although I am going to stick with the PI system, you have piqued my curiosity about the Surge Guard, so I plan to take a closer look at it. Thank you for making me aware of it. (Greg)
Re: Black Water Horrors
I had the 10' Rhino hose for about two years and quite frankly after that experience it makes me a bit leery of experiencing something similar in a campground or state park. I spoke to Verna and she also stated that the ends "screwed in" but the hose I had basically exploded (if you will) off the end fitting, so after examining it after things calmed down and were cleaned up, I determined that the hose I had was no longer repairable and functional so I tossed it. There would be no reason or self imposed action on my part that would have allowed or created this event to happen (e.g., constant bumping, etc. that would loosen or damage the fitting in a manner that allowed the hose to come loose from the fitting).
I spent good money on these hoses, have never had issues in the past and will just say that I am a bit apprehensive about the Rhino hose quality and may look elsewhere to find a suitable hose that gives me confidence that it will not fail when I least expect it. Inasmuch as this event appears to be humorous (I can certainly laugh about it now and find some humor in it after the fact), you do not want to ever experience something like this at a dump station as it wasn't fun and I'm lucky that I was able to snuff it out quickly, before it became an even bigger event.
I spent good money on these hoses, have never had issues in the past and will just say that I am a bit apprehensive about the Rhino hose quality and may look elsewhere to find a suitable hose that gives me confidence that it will not fail when I least expect it. Inasmuch as this event appears to be humorous (I can certainly laugh about it now and find some humor in it after the fact), you do not want to ever experience something like this at a dump station as it wasn't fun and I'm lucky that I was able to snuff it out quickly, before it became an even bigger event.
Re: surge protector?
I’ve been using this one and it works just fine. Reasonable price.
PROGRESSIVE INDUSTRIES SSP-30XL Surge Protector with Cover (30 Amp) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015Y9MX38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_mPnCCbJVBDDH3
PROGRESSIVE INDUSTRIES SSP-30XL Surge Protector with Cover (30 Amp) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015Y9MX38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_mPnCCbJVBDDH3
Re: Alde Water Heater
@AJLilchick, please read the Alde manual. But in the meantime, there are 2 ways to fill your Alde water tank - using a hose vs using water from your fresh water tank.
1. Hook your water hose up to the City Water Connection, open your taps and flush the toilet to get out all the air from your plumbing. (Watch so you don’t overflow your gray tank if you let it run too long.). The action of opening your hot water calls water into the Alde tank. Let your hot water run until there is no longer any air coming out and the flow comes out steady. Your Alde water tank should be full at that point. Caution, do not be tempted to run your water pump with the city water connection in use. The water via hose is already pressurizing the plumbing system and you can damage your pump.
2. To fill your Alde water tank when you do not have a city water connection, fill your Fresh Water Tank using the fill port on the driver’s side. After it is filled, turn on the pump. The pump will pressurize and you will hear it run then settle down. When you next open a tap, flush or shower, your pump will run to provide water. Next get the air out by opening taps and flushing the toilet.
And, again, opening the hot water will call water into the Alde water tank as above. This is a far less efficient way to de-air and fill your Alde tank, so when you can, use #1.
1. Hook your water hose up to the City Water Connection, open your taps and flush the toilet to get out all the air from your plumbing. (Watch so you don’t overflow your gray tank if you let it run too long.). The action of opening your hot water calls water into the Alde tank. Let your hot water run until there is no longer any air coming out and the flow comes out steady. Your Alde water tank should be full at that point. Caution, do not be tempted to run your water pump with the city water connection in use. The water via hose is already pressurizing the plumbing system and you can damage your pump.
2. To fill your Alde water tank when you do not have a city water connection, fill your Fresh Water Tank using the fill port on the driver’s side. After it is filled, turn on the pump. The pump will pressurize and you will hear it run then settle down. When you next open a tap, flush or shower, your pump will run to provide water. Next get the air out by opening taps and flushing the toilet.
And, again, opening the hot water will call water into the Alde water tank as above. This is a far less efficient way to de-air and fill your Alde tank, so when you can, use #1.
Re: Draining gray and black tanks
Since I don't have the black tank, I can't be a lot of help on the best procedures. I do, however, carry a small bottle of bleach, as well as a spray bottle mixed with water and bleach to keep things sanitized. When I drain the gray water tank, or any time I do anything near the sewer, I spray everything down and wipe it off before storing. A good pair of rubber gloves also comes in handy.
