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TAB 400 door lock problem
So, I got my new Tab 400 home. Locked the trailer and gave the door a gentle tug to make sure that the door was indeed locked. This was a gentle tug, mind you, and yet the latch slipped out of the first (large) opening in the strike plate and lodged against the second (small) opening in the strike plate. Hmm. So I opened the door, entered the camper, and observed the lock from inside while my wife locked the door from outside and then repeated the gentle tug. From inside, I noticed that the latch barely extends within the large opening in the strike plate, and the gentle tug is sufficient to allow the latch to slip out of the strike plate. Obviously, this is a real security concern. I don't see any way to repair the problem without shimming the strike plate so that it moves closer to the latch, thereby allow the latch to extend further into the larger opening in the strike plate. I'm hoping that someone has had a similar issue and knows of a quick and easy fix so that I don't have to drag the trailer two hours back to the dealer. Anyone had personal experience with the problem? A solution?
In addition, I'd really like to replace the lock with one that has a bolt. However, these locks are not standard RV type locks (I located them on the product inventory of a lock manufacturer in Italy) and it seems pretty clear that a special lock will be required. Anyone have any experience in replacing the TAB 400 door lock?
In addition, I'd really like to replace the lock with one that has a bolt. However, these locks are not standard RV type locks (I located them on the product inventory of a lock manufacturer in Italy) and it seems pretty clear that a special lock will be required. Anyone have any experience in replacing the TAB 400 door lock?
https://youtu.be/1HyAq3tLXlw
Re: Hail Protection / Solar Panels
We would use the rug from the tent.
Re: Surge Protection
gg144 check this video out. 
http://youtu.be/O5eP2pCf4zM
http://youtu.be/O5eP2pCf4zMRe: Water Pump
Ok, thanks on the additional areas you covered. It's so incredibly difficult to get back there. I finally attached a hook to the wall to hold the door open so I didn't have to use my head!
Re: Any Subaru outback owners out there?
splatmatt said:. . . my next vehicle won't be a Subaru, not even the new Ascent. It will most likely be a Tacoma or the Nissan Frontier (only because you can still get the Frontier with manual transmission in a crew cab V6). After towing and reading obsessively about tow vehicles, it seems everyone complains about the automatic transmissions in general. Some are AT's are better performers for towing, but a manual transmission is more appealing to me because the direct control with how the engine power is transmitted to the wheels without dealing with a computer trying to time everything properly.
I hear you. Was a manual transmission guy for decades and towed two sailboats and untold U-Hauls with manual transmission pick-ups. In 2017 switched to an automatic (no manual option) and do like it a lot. As "they say" these are not your father's automatics.
Am still learning how to best use the tow/haul and manual override features. With each trip I've gained greater understanding and control of which gear the automatic is in and success in manually causing an up/down shift when I feel it is needed (not when the best MPG computer thinks) for confident vehicle control. And don't forget the big plus of no clutch to play with during slow crawling trailer parking or being able to stay in cruise control while shifting.
Take a ride-along with an experienced Canyon/Colorado truck owner while towing . . . you will be surprised.
Am still learning how to best use the tow/haul and manual override features. With each trip I've gained greater understanding and control of which gear the automatic is in and success in manually causing an up/down shift when I feel it is needed (not when the best MPG computer thinks) for confident vehicle control. And don't forget the big plus of no clutch to play with during slow crawling trailer parking or being able to stay in cruise control while shifting.
Take a ride-along with an experienced Canyon/Colorado truck owner while towing . . . you will be surprised.
Re: Plastic Brackets on FanTastic Fan Vent Lid - Ultra Breeze U1400 Cover Installation (Title Edited)
Well, @JEB and @rajamar , the verdict is in...........the Aero-flo cover does NOT fit over the latest version of the Fan-Tastic vent base. The primary problem is the design of the plastic bracket on the Fan-Tastic vent base. Specifically, as depicted below, the angled portion of that bracket prevents the Aero-flo from completely seating over it.
Additionally, the Aero-flo mounting slots are both too small to fit over the plastic brackets and the width of the Aero-flo base is not wide enough to extend far enough to reach the brackets on the opposite side of the Fan-Tastic base. As shown below, although one corner of the Aero-flo can be aligned with one plastic bracket (red arrow), it does not align with the other bracket on the same side (green arrow.) Also, due to the insufficient width of the Aero-flo cover, the opposite side of the base butts up against the stock Fan-Tastic vent lid. I am guessing that Dometic re-designed their base (by adding the plastic brackets) not only to easily attach their after-market cover, but to prevent/deter the attachment of competing covers. However, as I mentioned earlier in this thread, Creed at nüCamp indicated that the plastic brackets will work with a MaxxAir cover. I have not independently confirmed that.
I have returned the Aero-flo cover. However, I am not completely disenchanted with this outcome. Although it would definitely be nice to have the additional cover to keep out the rain while the vent is wide open, my wife and I really did not like the look of the Aero-flo on the roof of my camper. It just seems too bulky and extends too high up on the roof. Were it to be designed to fit the Fan-Tastic brackets, it would have to be wider, which would only exacerbate the bulky look. Since the Fan-Tastic and MaxxAir (standard version) covers are even bulkier and taller, I am not interested in installing either of those. Therefore, I will be sticking with the stock cover, which I think will be fine, even when it rains. (Greg)
Additionally, the Aero-flo mounting slots are both too small to fit over the plastic brackets and the width of the Aero-flo base is not wide enough to extend far enough to reach the brackets on the opposite side of the Fan-Tastic base. As shown below, although one corner of the Aero-flo can be aligned with one plastic bracket (red arrow), it does not align with the other bracket on the same side (green arrow.) Also, due to the insufficient width of the Aero-flo cover, the opposite side of the base butts up against the stock Fan-Tastic vent lid. I am guessing that Dometic re-designed their base (by adding the plastic brackets) not only to easily attach their after-market cover, but to prevent/deter the attachment of competing covers. However, as I mentioned earlier in this thread, Creed at nüCamp indicated that the plastic brackets will work with a MaxxAir cover. I have not independently confirmed that.
I have returned the Aero-flo cover. However, I am not completely disenchanted with this outcome. Although it would definitely be nice to have the additional cover to keep out the rain while the vent is wide open, my wife and I really did not like the look of the Aero-flo on the roof of my camper. It just seems too bulky and extends too high up on the roof. Were it to be designed to fit the Fan-Tastic brackets, it would have to be wider, which would only exacerbate the bulky look. Since the Fan-Tastic and MaxxAir (standard version) covers are even bulkier and taller, I am not interested in installing either of those. Therefore, I will be sticking with the stock cover, which I think will be fine, even when it rains. (Greg)
Re: Upgrading to a TaB 400
Eji said:. . . have enjoyed my T@b 320 S every month and now I want upgrade to a 400. . . .
While the 400 provides more space it's difficult for me to call it an upgrade. The 400 has the same materials and build quality and same nuCamp company support. You're just getting a bigger trailer with more interior space but also higher towing costs, higher insurance rates, higher cost awnings/tents, and maybe need for bigger tow vehicle.
A mix of trade-offs. A different style of RV Camping - - - not an upgrade - - -
A mix of trade-offs. A different style of RV Camping - - - not an upgrade - - -
Re: How old was your Alde 3010 when it stopped working?
It's most likely the thermal fuse on the Alde circuit board. You can test it by making a jumper with some wire and alligator clips. I found new thermal fuses online and had a friend solder it in. Under 10 dollar fix, Alde will tell you to buy a new circuit board for a couple hundred bucks.
More info in this thread:
Tire pressure checking
Don't know if this has been discussed before, but leave it to me to be redundant if it has. Anyway, as we are preparing for our first outing to escape the snow, I dutifully began checking the tire pressures only to have one valve decide to let more air out than I could put in. I quickly put the cap back on and ran to an auto parts store and bought a tire valve extraction tool. A couple of turns with it and all was well. Something to be aware of, I guess. The little valve in the stem had worked itself loose is all. I now have a new tool to take with us. Only cost $5.00 and saved a lot of potential grief!