Best Of
Re: Charging Battery with TV
Forgive me if I beat a dead horse here. I think that there are many sources of disinformation as relating to the charging line from trailer to TV.
First, an alternator puts out current independent of its rpm's. It puts out amperage in proportion to the input voltage to the rotor windings. Most modern alternators are capable of big (40-50A and over) power at idle. The only impediments are engine hp and voltage input. Voltage input is commonly managed by both the regulator (internal) and ECU. It's safe to say the ECU will limit input voltage to the alternator based upon software that is designed to maximize mpg's and engine idle characteristics as well as heat management. I'd bet a buck that pretty much any modern auto is putting out enough amperage even at an idle to make your trailer battery dance.
As I've preached for eons, the primary source of poor charging performance of the trailer charging circuit can be traced 90 times out of 100 to the wiring between the TV and trailer, more specifically, the ground circuit.
Folks run dedicated cables from the TV battery to the charging line on the trailer as a matter of course. 10 gauge is a common size for that. But the most important and overlooked wire is always the ground. Many OE trailer harnesses have 16 or (horrors!) 18 gauge wires for lights. Okay. Few SUV's come with factory 7 way harnesses. So tap the 4 way harness for lights and add a brake and charging line! Right? The 4 way harness is where the ground resides and is not equipped to handle the amperage. Let's remember that the dedicated hot line for your charge circuit must be sized to handle 20-30 amps. Fine. But the ground circuit must also handle that same 30 amp potential....plus another 10 or so for brakes.....and another 10 or 15 amps for lights.....the entire amperage load of ALL combined circuits must return to the TV on 1 wire. The ground. 95% of all trailer grounds come back to the TV and terminate through a sheetrock screw in a fender panel. Wrong.....
Do yourself a favor and try a simple test: get a 10 gauge ground wire (white or black) and run it directly from the TV battery ground to the trailer ground. Assuming you have a 10 gauge hot wire you'll see your charging voltage increase by 10% and the amperage go up by 50%.
I have been pulling teardrops for 3 years using dedicated 10 gauge ground lines from the TV 7 way to the battery. I can charge my battery at the same rate my TV battery charges. Allowing for absorbtion differences between the automotive battery and its deep-cycle cousin, they should (and will) charge at exactly the same rate and amperage.
Whenever you put 2 (or more) batteries in a parallel circuit together, the regulator will essentially "see" an average of the state of charge between them and respond accordingly. If your trailer battery is much lower (voltage) than your TV battery, it will draw power from it. That in turn will prompt the alternator to produce more power, again, within the parameters of the regulator and possibly, the ECU software.
Ground wire, people. Ground wire. It's not your alternator.....
WilliamA
First, an alternator puts out current independent of its rpm's. It puts out amperage in proportion to the input voltage to the rotor windings. Most modern alternators are capable of big (40-50A and over) power at idle. The only impediments are engine hp and voltage input. Voltage input is commonly managed by both the regulator (internal) and ECU. It's safe to say the ECU will limit input voltage to the alternator based upon software that is designed to maximize mpg's and engine idle characteristics as well as heat management. I'd bet a buck that pretty much any modern auto is putting out enough amperage even at an idle to make your trailer battery dance.
As I've preached for eons, the primary source of poor charging performance of the trailer charging circuit can be traced 90 times out of 100 to the wiring between the TV and trailer, more specifically, the ground circuit.
Folks run dedicated cables from the TV battery to the charging line on the trailer as a matter of course. 10 gauge is a common size for that. But the most important and overlooked wire is always the ground. Many OE trailer harnesses have 16 or (horrors!) 18 gauge wires for lights. Okay. Few SUV's come with factory 7 way harnesses. So tap the 4 way harness for lights and add a brake and charging line! Right? The 4 way harness is where the ground resides and is not equipped to handle the amperage. Let's remember that the dedicated hot line for your charge circuit must be sized to handle 20-30 amps. Fine. But the ground circuit must also handle that same 30 amp potential....plus another 10 or so for brakes.....and another 10 or 15 amps for lights.....the entire amperage load of ALL combined circuits must return to the TV on 1 wire. The ground. 95% of all trailer grounds come back to the TV and terminate through a sheetrock screw in a fender panel. Wrong.....
Do yourself a favor and try a simple test: get a 10 gauge ground wire (white or black) and run it directly from the TV battery ground to the trailer ground. Assuming you have a 10 gauge hot wire you'll see your charging voltage increase by 10% and the amperage go up by 50%.
I have been pulling teardrops for 3 years using dedicated 10 gauge ground lines from the TV 7 way to the battery. I can charge my battery at the same rate my TV battery charges. Allowing for absorbtion differences between the automotive battery and its deep-cycle cousin, they should (and will) charge at exactly the same rate and amperage.
Whenever you put 2 (or more) batteries in a parallel circuit together, the regulator will essentially "see" an average of the state of charge between them and respond accordingly. If your trailer battery is much lower (voltage) than your TV battery, it will draw power from it. That in turn will prompt the alternator to produce more power, again, within the parameters of the regulator and possibly, the ECU software.
Ground wire, people. Ground wire. It's not your alternator.....
WilliamA
Re: Tab 400 - Weight-Distribution Hitch Not Recommended Due To C-Channel Construction
Just weighed mine. All tanks dry, propane tank removed.460 pound tongue weight.
Re: Successfully eliminated “P” trap under sink with Hepvo valve
Note the Hepvo is a couple dollars cheaper directly from their website, here: http://hepvo.com/buy-now/
Re: How old was your Alde 3010 when it stopped working?
Back in business. New Aide circuit board and new Progressive converter installed by repair shop. The thermal fuse on the board was good on only one side, and I upgraded the converter.
I had never tested the output of the converter itself, they said it may have been putting out 17.6 volts the whole time. It may have been part of the bad batch of 2015 converters, too, who knows?
I was a major rookie back then, Alde switches, frying my first battery, listening to other people on how to back up, etc. Thanks all!
I had never tested the output of the converter itself, they said it may have been putting out 17.6 volts the whole time. It may have been part of the bad batch of 2015 converters, too, who knows?
I was a major rookie back then, Alde switches, frying my first battery, listening to other people on how to back up, etc. Thanks all!
Re: 2019 Black Tank Flush Fitting
When I dump the black tank I empty it completely, hook up the dump station hose if they have a decent fitting, then let the interior nozzle flush do its thing with the valve open. I also close the black tank valve during this process, continue to let the nozzle work it’s magic, let water build up inside the black tank and then open the valve to allow the water volume to remove any additional affluent that might have been missed earlier. I repeat this process a couple of times and am confident that the tank is sufficiently cleaned out.
I dont worry too much about this process (hooking up to the tank cleaning nozzle) if we have been traveling with material in the tank as the highway does a great job of stirring things up. We also religiously use dish soap and some Downy fabric softener after the tank is dumped and it keeps the tank surface slippery for easier cleaning after breaking camp.
I dont worry too much about this process (hooking up to the tank cleaning nozzle) if we have been traveling with material in the tank as the highway does a great job of stirring things up. We also religiously use dish soap and some Downy fabric softener after the tank is dumped and it keeps the tank surface slippery for easier cleaning after breaking camp.
Re: Fantastic/Dometic Fan vent cover stuck open.
I called Dometic/Fantastic company and they’re sending new parts free under 2 yr warantee. Very helpful. They said after 2 yrs, warantee still good up to 7 yrs but with small service fee. I think she said $15. Terrific, thanks everyone.
Re: 2019 Black Tank Flush Fitting
I have a label at my black tank flush that says the discharge gate valve must be open in order to use the black tank flush. I hook a hose to the black tank flush and let it “whirl” away.
Re: 2019 Black Tank Flush Fitting
The 400 comes with a proper black tank flush, where there are jets inside the tank. It is not a “T” in the vent. To use, close both waste gates, and fill the black tank, discharge & repeat, as needed. I would assume that some of the leakage is back pressure from a 3/4” hose to what ever tiny diameter hose is on the jets...just my thoughts on the matter, I have a 320...
Re: TaB 400 Dinette Table Modification
Chris
Sounds good Chris. I have another mod I’m working on - top secret 😀
Happy Camping
Pete
Sounds good Chris. I have another mod I’m working on - top secret 😀
Happy Camping
Pete
Re: Best Weight Distribution Hitch for T@B 400?
I am fairly new to all of this, I wonder if the dealer just did not feel like putting a WDH on...I am curious to know what the best WDH for a 400 is...I still might be interested in having one installed.
