Best Of
Re: DIY Replacement for Inner Windows Shade/Screen
I've reviewed the Horrex installation manual for installation of a screen/shade unit. For replacement of a damaged unit for the front window on a T@B 400 it is apparent that there are at least two Z-clips at intermediate locations along top and bottom frame pieces and a screw at each corner into the wall. The four screws are easy to remove but I would like to know how to free top and bottom frame pieces from the grip of the Z-clips. Has anyone done a removal and can offer advice on how to do this? Thanks.
Belay that request, I just figured it out!
Belay that request, I just figured it out!
Re: ‘22 Tab 400 fresh water drain won’t drain
Nucamp customer service emailed me back and suggested compressed air through the fresh water drain. Took a few tries but it dislodged some foreign objects (looked like some very small animal eggs full of very bad smelling white stuff which might be another problem) but the fresh water drain started draining again right away. They recommended not using compressed air through the overflow because that could improperly pressurize the system. Thanks for the help everyone. Wanted to be sure to post the solution here for others.
Re: Upgrading to LiTime 12V 230Ah from Harris AGM - How to? [2020 T@b400]
So I got the battery hooked up, and both the Victron MPPT 75/15 and BMV-712 settings sorted... I think.
Yesterday I never really saw a voltage above 13.35 or so, but today it has gone above 13.55. It has been disconnected from shore power since yesterday morning (stock non-lithium WFCO). Today I reset the BMV-712 100% SOC setting when the battery was in the mid-13.5s.
I'd be forever appreciative if someone could look over the settings below just to confirm they are correct. I used LiTime's settings, though their terminology is a bit different, and the email they sent is slightly different than other references (both printed and their website).
In going through this conversion, I am puzzled by one thing. Although I understand the 'flat' discharge rate of Li batteries (and the consequent ambiguity of the State-of-Charge % indication), I am confused by LiTime's following statement in regard to controller settings:
"1) Based on theCharacteristics of LiFePO4 batteries, the voltage measured by all LiFePO4 batteries during charging/discharging is not the real voltage of the battery. Therefore after charging/discharging and disconnecting the battery from the power source, the voltage of the battery will gradually drop/increase to its real voltage.
2) After this battery is protected from overcharge, the tested battery voltage (not the real voltage) will be lower than the real voltage. To calculate the SOC(%) add 0.5 to 0.7v to the tested battery voltage."
I get that the voltage needs to stabilize (or whatever), but it would seem that the charge controller settings are thus based upon numbers that are not necessarily accurate, and in fact may be either lower (or higher) than recommended. In regard to the last bolded sentence, is this something that I would take into consideration when programming the BMV-712?
Also, I assume I should do a load test, i.e. fully charge and then run the battery down (solar charge of) until the BMS shuts it off, to confirm that all the cells are relatively OK (i.e. that it gives roughly 230aH)?
Thanks for any clarity on all this, I just want to make sure the system is working before I take it to storage.
-Jeff
Yesterday I never really saw a voltage above 13.35 or so, but today it has gone above 13.55. It has been disconnected from shore power since yesterday morning (stock non-lithium WFCO). Today I reset the BMV-712 100% SOC setting when the battery was in the mid-13.5s.
I'd be forever appreciative if someone could look over the settings below just to confirm they are correct. I used LiTime's settings, though their terminology is a bit different, and the email they sent is slightly different than other references (both printed and their website).
In going through this conversion, I am puzzled by one thing. Although I understand the 'flat' discharge rate of Li batteries (and the consequent ambiguity of the State-of-Charge % indication), I am confused by LiTime's following statement in regard to controller settings:
"1) Based on theCharacteristics of LiFePO4 batteries, the voltage measured by all LiFePO4 batteries during charging/discharging is not the real voltage of the battery. Therefore after charging/discharging and disconnecting the battery from the power source, the voltage of the battery will gradually drop/increase to its real voltage.
2) After this battery is protected from overcharge, the tested battery voltage (not the real voltage) will be lower than the real voltage. To calculate the SOC(%) add 0.5 to 0.7v to the tested battery voltage."
I get that the voltage needs to stabilize (or whatever), but it would seem that the charge controller settings are thus based upon numbers that are not necessarily accurate, and in fact may be either lower (or higher) than recommended. In regard to the last bolded sentence, is this something that I would take into consideration when programming the BMV-712?
Also, I assume I should do a load test, i.e. fully charge and then run the battery down (solar charge of) until the BMS shuts it off, to confirm that all the cells are relatively OK (i.e. that it gives roughly 230aH)?
Thanks for any clarity on all this, I just want to make sure the system is working before I take it to storage.
-Jeff
Re: Leaking shower drain question
Ah ha! Fingered it out!
Turns out there was not a good seal around the drain basket and the shower floor itself. Figured this out by covering the center of the drain with gorilla tape but left the outer edge of the drain assembly uncovered. Poured some water and could then see water coming down over the flange (green arrow).
Popped the drain out of the shower, re-did the silicone and that stopped that leak and then I was able to really tighten down the connector fitting (yellow arrow) and that stopped the seeping there.
Think I'm all good. W00t!
Re: Pump Runs But No Pressure/Water
dsfdogs said:@Jfrei , @Horigan I too have had the compressed hose situation! It was caused when I turned on the pump but forgot to switch the Nautilus settings to "dry camp". No plug in the air vent.
@Jfrei the air vent/overflow is a small white 90* elbow about 1/4" diameter to the upper right of the tank drain levers.
Thank you!
Re: Which way have you found best for sleeping in a Tab 320s. Non-CS
Can't stretch out wheel to wheel and don't want to crawl over each other. No way I'll sleep with my head under the cabinets. Twin beds front to back works perfect for us.
Re: ‘22 Tab 400 fresh water drain won’t drain
Check the fresh tank overfill/vent. If it is clogged by a mud dauber/bug nest, you may not be able to drain.
If it is clear, can you use a compressor hose to displace any debris that has accumulated?
Lastly, is it possible the tank drain valve has malfunctioned and is stuck closed?
Re: Pump Runs But No Pressure/Water
Good information, thanks!dsfdogs said:
Re: Roof fan cover
THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THE GREAT DIRECTIONS!
Leaving on August 28, for Alaska.
Leaving on August 28, for Alaska.
