Best Of
Re: Who has successfully slept with their head under the cabinets of a 320?
I usually hit my head once at the beginning of each year's first trip. That's all it takes to knock some sense into my brain. Unfortunately, my short term memory is programmed for one year max.
Re: Difficulty priming water system.
Hmmm. Looks like I'm a victim as well.
Re: Solar app shuts down with 60% full battery bank
Thank you Marceline. I will start me generator in the morning and run it all day with full sun. Hopefully this will take me to 100% and then I will synchronize.
Re: Solar app shuts down with 60% full battery bank
At 13.12v, the SOC (state of charge) of a lithium battery is about 40%. So your Smart Shunt is giving you an incorrect SOC. If your SmartShunt was reading 60% at some point, then your battery was likely dead dead dead.Busted_11B said:Here is a screen shot of normal operation, instead of 95% it was 60% and instead of "Inverting" it said off and battery low or something like that but also show almost zero Amps.
In the settings for the Smart Shunt there is a default setting that synchronizes the SOC to 100% when the SmartShunt is powered up. I think that what's happening is that either NuCamp or the dealers are dropping partially charged batteries into the campers, and the SmartShunt is treating that as 100%.
AFAIK the only solution is to get your batteries back up to a real 100% charge (13.6v) by whatever means and then go into the SmartShunt settings and manually synchronize it to 100% only when you're sure that the batteries are fully charged. My understanding is that the inverter consumes a fair amount of power, so to accelerate the charging process I'd turn it off. If you're not able to connect to shore power, I'd turn off everything that consumes a lot of power (like the fridge) and get as much sun as possible on the solar panels.
Re: Corrosion of Alde Convectors
Here you go. https://www.alde.us/our-products/rubber-hose-1/?from-filters=22-mm,assembly-parts-rubber,heating-systemsReenieG said:@DanWeitzel I saw that and that's why I questioned the specs on that hose, but... there are NO hoses on the Alde site. So I'm still in search mode.
Re: Corrosion of Alde Convectors
The brush used on the rubber hose cleaning was from Harbor Freight which was pulled through with a piece of rope. The brush used on the convectors is a 12 ga shotgun brush and associated rods for cleaning a shotgun barrel.ReenieG said:Looking through this updated thread again as I work on my Alde corrosion, I have a couple of questions for some of you. (I will create a new thread or add my total completed experience here when I get done)@grassgd where did you get that brush? Is it a fish tank cleaner brush or ? if you have a name or a link that would be helpful. TIAHas anyone replaced all of their hoses? I'm trying to find a good resource to do so, since IMO, while I'm doing a massive repair to the system anyway and want to avoid any leakage from something I may have not visually seen, it seems to me the whole system contains about 25ft or less of epdm hoses which may just be more prudent to start with new hoses and cut to length. Anyone? If so, please provide a link where you got your hoses from. That would be helpful. Also, there are a couple of elbows, one with the little metal thingy, not sure what it is called, so maybe that is salvageable or can be ordered as a part.Also, it appears this metal T-pipe and brass screw on drain cock is another part that could be replaced for the glycol floor drain which is rubber with a plastic red drain plug. Is that a correct part for that and has anyone replaced theirs? Or do some of you already have that in place? I'm leery of using some of these older parts when in fact I have everything out of the trailer now and this would be the time to upgrade it. TIAThis hose available at Tractor Supply looks like it might work but I'm not sure about the specs on this. Anyone?
Re: Vinyl wrap on my 2013 T@B!
That that looks fabulous! Great graphics! Try Krylon paint for the tub.
Re: Battleborn ‘add a battery’ diagram.
This is not correct. A single conductor of 4 AWG wire is rated 120A regardless of stranding. What does impact the current-carrying ability is if you have multiple 4 AWG wires in a single cable (or conduit) and they all have high currents passing through them. This is because the whole cable heats up and the insulation between the wires could fail. As long as your 4AWG wire is able to dissipate heat, you are good for 120A. The cable will feel warm to the touch.Grumpy_G said:There is a difference between solid core and various stranded wires, 4 awg solid core is rated for 120A but stranded variants go from 70A all the way down to 35A.
Re: Leaking Pex Connection. Do I Need a Tool?
@manyman297.
I'm not sure how long it will last, but I've repaired two small leaks from this type of connection. I have a pair of pinch pliers in my toolbox and just tightened up the existing clamp. They are inexpensive and tend to fit in tight spaces. It's been 2 or 3 years since I repaired the first leak and, so far, it hasn't returned. The pliers shown below are in stock at the Lowes near me for about $15.
I'm not sure how long it will last, but I've repaired two small leaks from this type of connection. I have a pair of pinch pliers in my toolbox and just tightened up the existing clamp. They are inexpensive and tend to fit in tight spaces. It's been 2 or 3 years since I repaired the first leak and, so far, it hasn't returned. The pliers shown below are in stock at the Lowes near me for about $15.
Re: 3d printed lock for TAB 400 shower control
@HedCount Thanks for providing the file. Got mine printed out…