Best Of
Re: A truly flat heated bed.
Update: 3.6" dia heat circulation fans mounted at rear cab speaker-access ports.
Reduces rear bay temps from 100's to 80F, monitored by remote thermometer.
All that heat finally going to the general room.
*(GDSTIME 2 Pack 92mm x 92mm x 25mm 12V Dual Ball Bearings DC Brushless Cooling Fan)
Concept testing fall 2023: how effective would this be? Wired remote thermometer used to monitor.
Drilled 3" air circulation holes in interior dividers.
Fan draws air from cooler floor and front cabs, rearward to hottest bay, up and back out over feet.
Permanent recessed mounting Spring 2024:
1/4" Luaun ply replica of the OEM speaker access panels, will be stained and polyurethaned later.
Furnished guards are necessary. My feet end up in this footspace.
Details of mounting. Coupling nuts used to enable machine screws from front.
Fan will be separated from faceplate by 1/2" cabinet plywood.
I cut and ground screw lengths down to 7/8" in front, 3/8" in rear.
During installation I used a 1.5" screw temporarily to reach across space and draw the two together.
Fan guard and machine screw heads WILL interfere with existing hinged wood storage lid.
Cross cut the wood storage lid mid-length, removed a 1/4" total to gain clearance, remounted in two separately hinged lengths to permit easier access.
Cut and ground down the coupling nuts to nest into the sides of fan assembly.
Ran a machine screw from good end to clear the cut threads.
Very tricky final installation:
Loosely hang fan by one screw, angle assembly into opening, push fan back to clear 1/2" ply cab thickness, rotate and force fit into the opening. Drift pin to align another hole and overlong machine screw to pull into place.
Best to fish any wires up this wall to the Alde location first, and then feed them to your final destination.
A fiberglass fish-rod was much easier than an earlier pass on another project using a metal fish tape.
Top: on-off switch on fused circuit
Below: testing 'blackout' flap over EMS readout. Since glued in a black plastic hinge that flips down or back up.
Reduces rear bay temps from 100's to 80F, monitored by remote thermometer.
All that heat finally going to the general room.
*(GDSTIME 2 Pack 92mm x 92mm x 25mm 12V Dual Ball Bearings DC Brushless Cooling Fan)
Concept testing fall 2023: how effective would this be? Wired remote thermometer used to monitor.
Drilled 3" air circulation holes in interior dividers.
Fan draws air from cooler floor and front cabs, rearward to hottest bay, up and back out over feet.
Permanent recessed mounting Spring 2024:
1/4" Luaun ply replica of the OEM speaker access panels, will be stained and polyurethaned later.
Furnished guards are necessary. My feet end up in this footspace.
Details of mounting. Coupling nuts used to enable machine screws from front.
Fan will be separated from faceplate by 1/2" cabinet plywood.
I cut and ground screw lengths down to 7/8" in front, 3/8" in rear.
During installation I used a 1.5" screw temporarily to reach across space and draw the two together.
Fan guard and machine screw heads WILL interfere with existing hinged wood storage lid.
Cross cut the wood storage lid mid-length, removed a 1/4" total to gain clearance, remounted in two separately hinged lengths to permit easier access.
Cut and ground down the coupling nuts to nest into the sides of fan assembly.
Ran a machine screw from good end to clear the cut threads.
Very tricky final installation:
Loosely hang fan by one screw, angle assembly into opening, push fan back to clear 1/2" ply cab thickness, rotate and force fit into the opening. Drift pin to align another hole and overlong machine screw to pull into place.
Best to fish any wires up this wall to the Alde location first, and then feed them to your final destination.
A fiberglass fish-rod was much easier than an earlier pass on another project using a metal fish tape.
Top: on-off switch on fused circuit
Below: testing 'blackout' flap over EMS readout. Since glued in a black plastic hinge that flips down or back up.
Re: Wiring Question
Edit: when I reread the original post I realized the larger wire size mentioned was 10Gauge. A WAGO won’t work on a wire that large. Sorry for sharing poor information…
I've started using WAGO connectors @norwood. They can be used to join wires from12-24 Gauge, in either 12V or 120V applications. I think they'd be perfect for the splice you're looking to do. No more worries about mismatched wire sizes slipping out of a wire nut. NuCamp now uses them in the T@Bs too.
You can find them at most hardware stores or even on Amazon.
WAGO 221-413 Lever-Nuts 3 Conductor Compact Connectors 500 PK: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Re: Do I have a Boondock??
Yes Sharon, it would be. We added the pitch Boondock axle to our TaB, and had to get a small step stool to make up the difference in height.
cheers
cheers
Re: 2 way 12V fridge reviews?
Bing hi, hat kind of load did you have on that battery? We went almost four days and three nights on our TaB400 200 amp AGM battery, running the 12 VDC fridge the whole time and had the TaB under a small shade tree, so the solar only got partial sun, and our battery was recharged by mid day here I. nor Cal during a early Spring trip.
cheers
cheers
Re: Wiring Question
OR a better solution - you could buy the larger WAGO lever-nuts that fit 10awg.Horigan said:Wago would be a good option. You can trim some of the strands on the 10 AWG to make it effectively a 12 AWG to fit the Wago connector.
https://www.amazon.com/221-613-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Compact-Connectors/dp/B085ZQKQD2/ref=sr_1_7_sspa?crid=11JLKI73TW3N6&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.qLn1sGhuOUUPqskpd8XRGalNQnWQioUYkcTQCag4Q2xZoHXChyNIfeLyg14PPxRokjn4e0EJ1WFeO429RqvB5WAHb1u3gzavlYwnlCbvNAEaNnAoVajP_Fkdo6u8_WGCno2nfSCtA26VN3k3SaC6_1AVOH9pndwQy74Uu6Z0Q7LQoEiwxVIZ-oxACDmaOQH1VsFHmPEcAeLoY9HTGpf0MOLIqVooAdNV74JVGCvpwwWA7esHjmr0R3GCIrZEvsyuwn6YBbjQZKNbglMCr-OGXClTz8RN1LCBTfw4jZlbr1Q.ij4_dvX_Z3V0D_eD39AKMMrd3tWkCkgx_jDXUUmrXlU&dib_tag=se&keywords=wago+221-613&qid=1712540440&s=industrial&sprefix=wago+221-613,industrial,378&sr=1-7-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&psc=1
You should make sure you know which circuit you are tapping. The 10 awg is a 30 amp circuit. Possibly the refrig or solar. The 18awg is possibly a 7.5 amp fuse for the lights or LP detector.
Re: 400 - stinky slinky storage ?
Thanks for the ideas !
The one under the tonque might work , not sure if the spare is in the way ?
Trying to avoid storing it in the front tub . But is an option in a 5 gallon bucket .
Dont know if we have room inside to mount an internal tube style ? Will have to check.
Was hoping I could mount an external tube style in the back somewhere .
The one under the tonque might work , not sure if the spare is in the way ?
Trying to avoid storing it in the front tub . But is an option in a 5 gallon bucket .
Dont know if we have room inside to mount an internal tube style ? Will have to check.
Was hoping I could mount an external tube style in the back somewhere .
Re: 400 - stinky slinky storage ?
Divergent thinking... we opted to keep the hose and connectors in a 5-gallon bucket inside the front tub. I bought a screw on lid for the bucket from the hardware store.
Re: 400 - stinky slinky storage ?
on our 2019 400 the hose is stored in the back where I think you are thinking of putting it. It works well for us though your under-bed area my be configured differently.
Re: 400 - stinky slinky storage ?
I installed ours directly behind the front stabilizers. I like that it is inconspicuous and that it is also close to the grey and black water valves.
Re: Torque specs for T@B 320
Guess I'm the only one to disagree about anti-seize. I have put it on every threaded item I've encountered for well over 50 years. I have experienced excellent results, and never seen a problem using it.
