Best Of
Re: 3 Way Refrigerator Testing and Performance
I may end up there, but I'm going to play with the 3 way a little more first. I am retired and like a challenge to keep me thinking anyway.Denny16 said:@grassgd, I think the best option is to upgrade to a 100AH lithium battery, which your existing 120-watt solar should keep up with. Then (this ismrhe hardest part), part ways with the 3-way fridge, and install the new AC/DC Isotherm Cruise compressor fridge, nüCamp is currently using in the TaB320. The 100AH lithium will power this fridge quite easily, and your existing solar setup should be able to makeup the draw from the fridge’s overnight draw. Then you can get some sleep, knowing your food is safe.
Cheers
With the testing I did, the unit can perform well on hot days, I saw that. I just need to understand what causes it to not perform well on other days or times.
There are many larger 3 way units in larger RV's that have more controls on them and I assume they perform well - or maybe the have the same problem, I don't know. Apparently these larger unit have a better natural draft with the hot air exiting the roof and not on the side at the very top of the unit like on the T@b 320s. My testing showed increasing the flue height with the temporary exhaust flue helped alot without adding fans or baffles, etc.
Re: Alde leak under the shower pan.
Unfortunately my older iPhone camera lost its ability to focus on any near field object. I'll try to get another device to get a photo of it. Thanks for responding. I'll check the links you provided.
Re: Low batteries- Gloso trips when I try to charge
Hi,
Reviving this old thread on the undersize Gloso as my 360CS (June build) is suffering from the same issue.
The WFCO is putting out over 40 amps and the Gloso keeps tripping during a charge cycle. Our CS (non Lithium upgrade) did come with 4 AWG wiring, so upping the Gloso to 60 is no issue.
I'm going to e mail NuCamp support to see if they have an explaination of why they only put a 40 A breaker in.
Reviving this old thread on the undersize Gloso as my 360CS (June build) is suffering from the same issue.
The WFCO is putting out over 40 amps and the Gloso keeps tripping during a charge cycle. Our CS (non Lithium upgrade) did come with 4 AWG wiring, so upping the Gloso to 60 is no issue.
I'm going to e mail NuCamp support to see if they have an explaination of why they only put a 40 A breaker in.
Re: Different Battery Voltage shown in Victron components?
Thanks for this. The camper is pretty much brand spankin' new—a 2025 bought a couple of months ago. The VE.Bus isn't a dongle, but a hardwired unit. No sign of water or anything like that that. And I'm going to assume that NuCamp installed everything with the correct wiring sizes...AnOldUR said:My guess would be a voltage drop from the VE.Bus Smart Dongle. Could be wire size or a bad connection somewhere. I had a situation where water got into an inline fuse holder. It resulted in corrosion causing a lower voltage reading. I'd suggest checking all the connections before digging deeper into a cause.
Re: Looking for axle info for bearing/seal replacement for 2022 T@B 400 BD
When I looked at the Dexter chart again it looks as though it can't be anything other than what you are betting on. Our trailer would not be on a 3k axle and the 4.4k axle has a 6 bolt hub. Ours is 5 bolt. So either the 4k(10F) or the 3.5K (unlikely).
Unless someone believes that other model year 400s had something other than a Dexter axle.
I think the bearings are readily available so what I did the first time was just pull the hub and the bearings and take them to the auto part store with me.
Unless someone believes that other model year 400s had something other than a Dexter axle.
I think the bearings are readily available so what I did the first time was just pull the hub and the bearings and take them to the auto part store with me.
Re: SOC vs Voltage and Solar issues
This is a handy chart for LiFePo4. 
Re: Low voltage from rooftop solar panel - looking to confirm diagnosis
If your AGM is fully charged (or close to it) the solar controller isn't going to send any current to the battery. Try running your battery down a bit and then do your testing.
Re: Smartshunt reading not the same as camper panel (Voltages)
This is fabulous and extremely helpful! We are going to work on this this weekend. Thank you again!! Will report backBayliss said:@Stilley, as @Sharon_is_SAM noted, there should only be ONE wire between the shunt post labeled "TO BATTERY MINUS" and the negative terminal of your battery.
Therefore, remove the second wire (the one that runs between the "TO BATTERY MINUS" Shunt post and the battery negative ("-") side of the blue MPPT Solar Controller) from that shunt post and move it to the shunt post that is labeled "TO SYSTEM MINUS." Assuming everything else is connected correctly, that should resolve the issue.
I am a more visual person, so I am including a diagram of how my electrical system is connected for reference only. In the diagram, my Shunt is depicted in the right-center area of the diagram. Your specific setup is different than mine, but if you follow the lines for the connections, you will see what I have described above.
**********
IMPORTANT: Since you stated that you are not fully familiar with electrical work, for safety's sake I would recommend that before you move any wire(s), disconnect the wires attached to the 12V battery posts before doing anything with the Shunt connections.
TIP: Whenever you remove/reattach 12V battery wires, remember this simple rule: "Negative OFF first, ON last." As you can see in the second photo below, I wrote that rule on the negative ("-") battery wire on my trailer so I don't forget.
In other words:
When removing the battery wires - - disconnect the negative ("-") first, then disconnect the positive ("+") cable.
When connecting the battery wires - - connect the negative ("-") side first, then connect the positive ("+") side.
AND, whenever holding a wrench/socket wrench to add/remove the battery wires, make sure you do not accidentally allow the metal tool to touch both the "+" and "-" battery posts at the same time, or very bad things will happen!
Good luck!!
P.S. Add a description of the year and model of your trailer to your signature line. It will help forum members a great deal to have that information available. You can take a look at my signature line, or those for other members, for examples of the type of information that is helpful
Re: Smartshunt reading not the same as camper panel (Voltages)
@Stilley, as @Sharon_is_SAM noted, there should only be ONE wire between the shunt post labeled "TO BATTERY MINUS" and the negative terminal of your battery.
Therefore, remove the second wire (the one that runs between the "TO BATTERY MINUS" Shunt post and the battery negative ("-") side of the blue MPPT Solar Controller) from that shunt post and move it to the shunt post that is labeled "TO SYSTEM MINUS." Assuming everything else is connected correctly, that should resolve the issue.
I am a more visual person, so I am including a diagram of how my electrical system is connected for reference only. In the diagram, my Shunt is depicted in the right-center area of the diagram. Your specific setup is different than mine, but if you follow the lines for the connections, you will see what I have described above.
**********
IMPORTANT: Since you stated that you are not fully familiar with electrical work, for safety's sake I would recommend that before you move any wire(s), disconnect the wires attached to the 12V battery posts before doing anything with the Shunt connections.
TIP: Whenever you remove/reattach 12V battery wires, remember this simple rule: "Negative OFF first, ON last." As you can see in the second photo below, I wrote that rule on the negative ("-") battery wire on my trailer so I don't forget.
In other words:
When removing the battery wires - - disconnect the negative ("-") first, then disconnect the positive ("+") cable.
When connecting the battery wires - - connect the negative ("-") side first, then connect the positive ("+") side.
AND, whenever holding a wrench/socket wrench to add/remove the battery wires, make sure you do not accidentally allow the metal tool to touch both the "+" and "-" battery posts at the same time, or very bad things will happen!
Good luck!!
P.S. Add a description of the year and model of your trailer to your signature line. It will help forum members a great deal to have that information available. You can take a look at my signature line, or those for other members, for examples of the type of information that is helpful
Therefore, remove the second wire (the one that runs between the "TO BATTERY MINUS" Shunt post and the battery negative ("-") side of the blue MPPT Solar Controller) from that shunt post and move it to the shunt post that is labeled "TO SYSTEM MINUS." Assuming everything else is connected correctly, that should resolve the issue.
I am a more visual person, so I am including a diagram of how my electrical system is connected for reference only. In the diagram, my Shunt is depicted in the right-center area of the diagram. Your specific setup is different than mine, but if you follow the lines for the connections, you will see what I have described above.
**********
IMPORTANT: Since you stated that you are not fully familiar with electrical work, for safety's sake I would recommend that before you move any wire(s), disconnect the wires attached to the 12V battery posts before doing anything with the Shunt connections.
TIP: Whenever you remove/reattach 12V battery wires, remember this simple rule: "Negative OFF first, ON last." As you can see in the second photo below, I wrote that rule on the negative ("-") battery wire on my trailer so I don't forget.
In other words:
When removing the battery wires - - disconnect the negative ("-") first, then disconnect the positive ("+") cable.
When connecting the battery wires - - connect the negative ("-") side first, then connect the positive ("+") side.
AND, whenever holding a wrench/socket wrench to add/remove the battery wires, make sure you do not accidentally allow the metal tool to touch both the "+" and "-" battery posts at the same time, or very bad things will happen!
Good luck!!
P.S. Add a description of the year and model of your trailer to your signature line. It will help forum members a great deal to have that information available. You can take a look at my signature line, or those for other members, for examples of the type of information that is helpful
Re: Recommended 4 way foldable lug wrench, torsion wrench and scissors jack - 2022 Tab 320 S Boondock
@TourDeForth @TerryLee
Just be sure to check the stabilizer tool. I thought it should be the same size socket at the spare tire lowering nut...but on my 2021 it is not.
Just be sure to check the stabilizer tool. I thought it should be the same size socket at the spare tire lowering nut...but on my 2021 it is not.