Best Of
Re: battery not charging on shore power & still being drawn down
We will have a lithium battery placed in our CSS in the spring by nuCamp. Not sure the 8955 will fit or not, but, this is the info we received from the shop.
“The WF-8955-AD-WAGO Converter with Auto Detect is designed to work with both AGM and Lithium Batteries. When replacing the single AGM battery with a Lithium battery this converter will identify the lithium battery and function automatically. Here is a link to the vendor website regarding the converter and its specs. https://www.wfcotech.com/shop/power-centers/wf-8900-ad-series-power-centers/wf-8955-power-center-2/
We would run 2/0 wiring from the battery. We would run 4g red & white. The length or wiring is dependent on the location of the battery install. Options are in the tongue box or under the bed. Typically they are installed under the bed.”
So, maybe they have learned the OEM smaller wiring was a factor in the AD not working?
Re: Anybody use a Jack-E-Up Removable Jack
gspdx said:I use it. I like it and really appreciate being able to remove the jack when traveling. A few things to note:
- Because of the style of the hitch I found that this device wouldn't sit flush on my hitch/frame. So I bought some longer bolts - high strength - and some steel spacers to lift the device up.
- Due to lifting the device up it shortens the effective lift of the jack. Haven't had any issues yet due to this but wouldn't be surprised if it causes an issue trying to level at some point or even trying to unhitch from my truck.
- The plate of the jack "floats" inside the metal carrier and just locates on the 3 notches. It is not a big deal but good to understand that when installed the jack isn't bolted to anything so if you try to roll the trailer around it will move a bit.
I want to install the Jack-E-Up on our new 2021 400 Boondock and I see that I'll need the longer bolts and spacers. May I get what size bolts I'll need? I'm not familiar with bolt sizes and don't want to disassemble the jack, take the bolts down to a hardware store in this time of COVID, and try to figure it out with someone who may not know anymore about it than I do. I think it would be much easier and safer to order the longer bolts and spacers on-line. Also what should I use for spacers? I appreciate any assistance you can offer.
Re: battery not charging on shore power & still being drawn down
But nuCamp is installing a Power Center with auto-detect that won't necessarily work because they fail to install the other appropriate components for the auto-detect feature to work properly. It seems reasonable to me that the Power Center should work as designed without the need for modifications to the system - especially when neither nuCamp nor WFCO have any mention of the possibility that modifications may be required.
Installing the appropriate components and even changing the wire size to the battery isn't that big of a deal, it's the lack of documentation about those modifications and that they need to be done that's annoying. It's interesting that the WFCO Operator's Manual includes instructions on how to replace the entire converter section.
However, the whole lack of transparency for the DIY-person could be simply to require the modifications to be done at an authorized service center...
WFCO didn't say they wouldn't send me a jumper, they just sent me the response I posted. I'm still going to reply to their email and ask for one anyways.
Installing the appropriate components and even changing the wire size to the battery isn't that big of a deal, it's the lack of documentation about those modifications and that they need to be done that's annoying. It's interesting that the WFCO Operator's Manual includes instructions on how to replace the entire converter section.
However, the whole lack of transparency for the DIY-person could be simply to require the modifications to be done at an authorized service center...
WFCO didn't say they wouldn't send me a jumper, they just sent me the response I posted. I'm still going to reply to their email and ask for one anyways.
Re: Hygrometer for Battery Testing
Yes, my bad. I did the calculation for batteries in parallel. However, 6V times 230Ah is 1380Wh, a unit of energy. I agree with your conclusion. It appears that lithium is now less expensive per amp-hour than high quality FLA batteries. Yikes!AnOldUR said:Two 6V 230Ah batteries in series will give you 230Ah at 12V. Half of that is 115Ah of capacity.
6V times 230Ah = 1380 watts
1380 watts times 2 = 2760 watts
2760 watts divided by 12V = 230Ah
50% of 230Ah = 115Ah
None of that says you won't get a few day of boondocking from 115Ah.
Re: Thank you and kudos…
Replace control panel. Purchased new control panel from Alde ($270). Easy install.Sharon_is_SAM said:What was the fix?
OOOOH!! Sexy.....
New laminate, new sink, new faucet. Removed the propane stove (more on that later). Still need to make a trim piece for the front edge......
Re: Hygrometer for Battery Testing
I still use oil lanterns. They work really well. I can ride a horse, but the trailer is happier with the car. I've camped with a single 12v FLA and had usable power leftover across a 3 day cloudy weekend. Pay attention to what you are doing. Buy the equipment that best fits your needs.
The price of Lithium batteries is falling rapidly. Now, many come with built in Bluetooth battery monitors. That reduces cost significantly and makes the installation more simple. I think this is a sign of better battery technology on the horizon.
If you think Lithium will help your situation, then it's a good idea. The prices are not going up, waiting won't hurt. If the switch in battery technology won't gain much for you, then don't waste the money. Lithium is not for everyone no matter how much you play with the numbers.
I'm not against new technology. There are several things with NuCamp products that could benefit from moving to this century. For us, Lithium is not worth the cost because the only benefit is less weight. There is other, less expensive ways to reduce 30lb.
P.S. I have a hygrometer also.
The price of Lithium batteries is falling rapidly. Now, many come with built in Bluetooth battery monitors. That reduces cost significantly and makes the installation more simple. I think this is a sign of better battery technology on the horizon.
If you think Lithium will help your situation, then it's a good idea. The prices are not going up, waiting won't hurt. If the switch in battery technology won't gain much for you, then don't waste the money. Lithium is not for everyone no matter how much you play with the numbers.
I'm not against new technology. There are several things with NuCamp products that could benefit from moving to this century. For us, Lithium is not worth the cost because the only benefit is less weight. There is other, less expensive ways to reduce 30lb.
P.S. I have a hygrometer also.
Re: How to add Victron controller 2016 320S?
Here's how installed mine between the SAE port on the outside of the tub and the battery.chrispitts said:Thanks to you both. I figured as much - but never safe to make assumptions. Thanks for the confirmation. (I'll try and wire the controller between the SAE port and the battery. There's enough room in the tub for me to place a small vertical panel to house the controller)
Re: Hygrometer for Battery Testing
All a bit tongue-in-cheek, folks. Although I rarely camp with electrical hookups, I do have the propane fridge. I rue the day when I need to replace it, but can't because they don't make them anymore. At that point I'll likely need to go to a two-way, and upgrade to lithium ion so I have the juice to run it.
I'm pretty sure there is a conspiracy at play here! ;-)
Re: Hygrometer for Battery Testing
2 6V batteries at $170 each x 2 = $340.00 $340 divided by 115ah usable capacity = $2.96 per ah.
1 300ah Renogy at $850.00 divided by 295ah usable capacity = $2.88 per ah.
1 300ah Renogy at $850.00 divided by 295ah usable capacity = $2.88 per ah.