Best Of
Re: extra negative wire crimped to main on battery?
I have a ‘23 Tab 400. The factory install was a single LiFePo4 battery and the white wire was attached directly to the battery negative. I have since upgraded my install to a 4 battery bank with smart shunt. I connected the white wire to the negative bus bar.
The white wire is NOT (at least in this instance) and “extra” ground wire. It simply is the negative side of the 12v system which operates the Alde as @kevmon mentions from the install manual.
Here is a photo where you can see both the red (positive) and white (negative) wires that are connected to the 12v plug to provide power to the Alde.
The white wire is NOT (at least in this instance) and “extra” ground wire. It simply is the negative side of the 12v system which operates the Alde as @kevmon mentions from the install manual.
Here is a photo where you can see both the red (positive) and white (negative) wires that are connected to the 12v plug to provide power to the Alde.
Re: extra negative wire crimped to main on battery?
I'm not an expert, but I'll absolutely verify my wires beyond a tracing guesstimate. Having said that, based on the information I have, it appears to be a ground for the Alde on my Tab 320. Alde doesn't have an installation manual for the 3020 on their US website but does on the UK one. I assume the DC circuit is the same. In that manual, it states:MuttonChops said:Confused Here.B0atguy said:
I have a 2024 400 , and it also has that white Alde wire going directly to the negative terminal of the battery .
Adding an Alde specific ground wire was a 'recommended fix' for blown fuses on the 3010 model Alde.
I'm very confused why nüCamp is installing an extra ground connection on the newer 3020 Alde units. My 2018 has the 3020 and NO extra ground wire - - - and I've never had an Alde Fuse failure.
I question the "wire tracing method used".
Most likely my WAG would be the extra ground wire is related to the Solar Panels & Controller.
"The 12-volt supply to the boiler must be routed directly from the battery via the vehicle’s main switch"
The 16 AWG wire from the Alde is the only 16 AWG I see in the tub. This also fits BOatguy's direct connection in the 400. I will make sure to verify before doing anything.
The solar wires on my 320 enter the trailer completely separate from junction box items—at a different entry point. It is straightforward to see that this is not related to solar--that I am 100% sure about. I highly doubt they would attempt to use 16 AWG for the solar controller connections.
Finally, I've done something pretty extraordinary to understand this better. I've emailed NuCamp. lol.
Re: Newbie question about 3-way Fridge
Don’t pre cool on battery as it will draw down to a dead battery in short order. And, best not tow using the battery to cool.
Most users cool down on shore power. You can cool down on propane and start with some pre cooled/frozen bottles of water to hasten the cool down.
Re: Charging LiFePO4 Batteries
You can get a NOCO 4 bank charger that would work . Either a Genius 2x4 (2 amps each x 4 bank= 8amps ) , or a Genius GENPRO 10x4 (10amps each x 4 bank= 40amps ).
The 2x4 is pretty cheap (like $199.95) and for a slow charge like a trickle .
The 10x4 is more robust and more expensive ($424.95) and more like a fast charger .
You can hook these up to 48volt systems that use 4 - 12v batteries x4 in series , and they work perfect . We use these all the time in the boat industry , also with a lot of Lithium battery conversions. (48v trolling motors, large stereo systems , etc) .
The 2x4 is pretty cheap (like $199.95) and for a slow charge like a trickle .
The 10x4 is more robust and more expensive ($424.95) and more like a fast charger .
You can hook these up to 48volt systems that use 4 - 12v batteries x4 in series , and they work perfect . We use these all the time in the boat industry , also with a lot of Lithium battery conversions. (48v trolling motors, large stereo systems , etc) .
Re: jockey wheels on the AL-KO frames
If you loosen the red clamp lever several turns the entire assembly should be loose. The crank with the outer tube should lift out the top or push out the bottom as you crank the wheel tube up inside.
There is a metal piece that protects the tube from being damaged by the clamp screw that possibly has been pushed in too far and is blocking the outer tube from passing through. You should be able to pull the top half out and look in the hole. It's a pretty simple assembly...
There is a metal piece that protects the tube from being damaged by the clamp screw that possibly has been pushed in too far and is blocking the outer tube from passing through. You should be able to pull the top half out and look in the hole. It's a pretty simple assembly...
Re: extra negative wire crimped to main on battery?
I have a 2024 400 , and it also has that white Alde wire going directly to the negative terminal of the battery . My 24 also came the Victron bluetooth shunt to monitor SOG parameters . Its weird to me that this white wire would go directly to the battery negative instead of the Victron shunt side. I just installed 4 100AH Renogy smart heated batteries in parallel (400AH) , to replace the single 100AH Battleborn , and was unsure about that single white wire from the Alde. I hooked up that wire directly to the negative side of the battery bank just to be safe. Not sure exactly what its purpose is for Alde , so I left it where it is from the factory . If its to prevent voltage spike's , it makes sense that it should go direct to the battery negative.
Re: Glycol change service costs
We have tons of info on the Glycol Exchange, and the 6 year long process to figure out how to do it. I caution everyone watching YouTube videos about the Alde in European Aldes: they use ethylene glycol antifreeze, which absolutely cannot be used in the US Aldes. The constant comments about the "5 year antifreeze" all seem to come from the European videos. So...good idea of the process in the video, but that is all!
This link takes you to the comment on the "DIY Glycol Exchange File" which explains the simple tools and the process.
This thread is the "Changing out the Alde Fluid" files. The six year process to figure out the Alde, how it really works, and how to change the glycol yourself. Plenty of other owners have done this, and they brought back photos and their own little modifications to the basic idea. Not all the trailers are as easy as others. There is more than one way to make the swap. The link goes to the last page of the thread, and you can skim backwards to find the pictures of other owner's DIY days. Tons of information and education about the Alde, the glycol, etc.
This link goes to another way to get the glycol out of the trailer: using a shop vac to suck it out. Many owners have done this, too.
Battle Born Batteries Earthday Sale
I don't work for BB and receive no compensation for this post. It is just a PSA. If you are in the market for BB batteries, this is the best sale I've seen. Good through April 26th:
100 AH
$825 Standard
$849 Heated
https://battlebornbatteries.com/
100 AH
$825 Standard
$849 Heated
https://battlebornbatteries.com/
Re: 2006 T@B Clamshell - Cylinder for lock system was drilled out, can't find a replacement
Many parts for the Dutchman built T@Bs are available from UK based "caravan" dealers. The T@B and Tabbert brand have long been popular in Europe and parts are widely available. When T@Bs first came to the US many parts were imported for the builds.