Best Of
Re: T@B 400 Alde corrosion
I now have all the convectors removed except the one under the wetbath. I coated the stubs with the miracle paint and will leave them to dry overnight.
The passenger side was easy. The hose was too long, pushing down on the stub. I may have to cut some off the end so everything fits properly. I'll see how it all looks first.
The center top was attached with pocket screws from the inside and you can't remove it in one piece because the wires are screwed to the back face. So I did what I had to. That's all I'll say about that.
The hose on one side wasn't quite "straight on". So it needed cleaning.
The front hoses had a surprising amount of glycol still in them and it made a bit of a mess. I'm seriously thinking about putting another low point drain up front. IF I'm able to find a suitable location. Tomorrow I'll slowly start putting things back together and figuring out a couple access panels so I can keep a better eye on things.
It's a big, messy job, but it's not hard. Now if something went bad on the actual Alde unit. That's probably something I'd nope out on. Hopefully these pictures will help other 400 owners that may run into this issue in the future.
The passenger side was easy. The hose was too long, pushing down on the stub. I may have to cut some off the end so everything fits properly. I'll see how it all looks first.
The center top was attached with pocket screws from the inside and you can't remove it in one piece because the wires are screwed to the back face. So I did what I had to. That's all I'll say about that.
The hose on one side wasn't quite "straight on". So it needed cleaning.
The front hoses had a surprising amount of glycol still in them and it made a bit of a mess. I'm seriously thinking about putting another low point drain up front. IF I'm able to find a suitable location. Tomorrow I'll slowly start putting things back together and figuring out a couple access panels so I can keep a better eye on things.It's a big, messy job, but it's not hard. Now if something went bad on the actual Alde unit. That's probably something I'd nope out on. Hopefully these pictures will help other 400 owners that may run into this issue in the future.
Re: Need Advise Pulling T@B 400 BD with 24 KIA Telluride.
@MuttonChops, thank you for that insight. It's interesting that campgrounds I've contacted in our area of coastal Maine appear to be anticipating customers coming in with electric vehicles and are charging them an extra fee as though expecting the customer to want to charge the vehicle and also use camp power for their camper. Hopefully that means that they have provided a robust enough electrical grid throughout the campground to handle increased use. As EVs proliferate, campgrounds and RV parks will have to have electrical infrastructure in place and policies applicable to these situations, or they'll have to turn away potential customers.MuttonChops said:@Bill&Suze
FYI:
Campground electrical utilities are in general power source sized for 70-80% of available power 'outlets' being used. Additionally many campground Rules state that a single camp site can use one of the available power source 20/30/50 Amp not two or three.
Yes, folks do use multiple Amperage connections just be aware it is not 'best practice' and during peak demand could be a factor in full campground brown outs or system shutdown.
Re: T@B 400 Alde corrosion
I'm going to try and post pictures as I go to make things a little easier for me.
To get to this I had to remove the fabric board and the plywood piece behind that. I backed out the pocket screws (Roberts head again). Removed the two, 2" Phillips screws that I assume went into the frame. The convector and wiring harness are screwed in from the back. You'll need some kind of low profile ratcheting tool to get these out.
I happened to have this already. It did work, but barley. Quite a bit of glycol did come out from the front hose. So try to put what towels you can under it.
Pieces I've had to remove so far, JUST to get to the convectors.🤨
To get to this I had to remove the fabric board and the plywood piece behind that. I backed out the pocket screws (Roberts head again). Removed the two, 2" Phillips screws that I assume went into the frame. The convector and wiring harness are screwed in from the back. You'll need some kind of low profile ratcheting tool to get these out.
I happened to have this already. It did work, but barley. Quite a bit of glycol did come out from the front hose. So try to put what towels you can under it.
Pieces I've had to remove so far, JUST to get to the convectors.🤨
Re: Post up some shots of your T@B set-up at the camp site! #3
Set up at Taborado 2024 in Palisade, CO!
Re: Need Advise Pulling T@B 400 BD with 24 KIA Telluride.
I've found this $11 purchase to be awesome for chains.....been using them for years.
Re: 2020, 400 bathroom mod
Beautiful work! I like that you thought to add some bit of insulation to the wall while it was all apart.
The plumbing bit in a cramped space led me to just ditch the whole sink assembly in favor of more hanging towel rods.
The plumbing bit in a cramped space led me to just ditch the whole sink assembly in favor of more hanging towel rods.
Re: Shutoff valve for the showerhead on 2021 TAB 400 Boondock
@ScottG Yes, completely off when off.
Re: Floor Buckling in kitchen area
Thanks Sharon. I'll take a better look when I'm back at my trailer in a month
Re: Kink in Alde hose
Well, that is.....something.
The 22mm hoses that Alde uses are the most basic EPDM hoses you can buy. Since there is no "pressure" in the glycol loop, they are unreinforced hoses.
Alde does have a couple of "bend" hoses on their page, but you really have to dig through their web page.
That is a 90...and I think there are a couple of different shapes.
I replaced a couple of 90 degree bends, and added slightly longer hoses in a couple of places. I removed that elbow with the bleed valve in my 2017. Seeing as how I would have to disassemble my trailer to make adjustments, I didn't see any point in leaving it there. The next time I replace the glycol, I may add a newer model of the bleeder in a more reasonable spot.
This is the type of hose I bought for the changes I made. These are "reinforced", and you need either 7/8th or 22 MM sized hose. This stuff was a bit more flexible than the original Alde hose. I know this can probably be found at many sources, so shop around.
I bought 90 degree bends from here. This search was for "45 degree 22mm epdm". There are more like this.
Re: Alde not turning on
To answer your two questions, the red wire that came loose has a half inch long solid silver colored metal tip, same as the black wire. These push into mating openings in the plug and I assume are simply a tight friction fit. When fully inserted they make contact with the circuit board contacts.
I don't know the answer to your last questions. Until now I've had no experience with Alde wiring. What I can attest to is that if this particular cable is not making contact with its circuit board there is no power to the Alde unit, to the WFCO fuse block nor to the control panel.
Thank you again for your attention to my earlier questions @pthomas745!
I don't know the answer to your last questions. Until now I've had no experience with Alde wiring. What I can attest to is that if this particular cable is not making contact with its circuit board there is no power to the Alde unit, to the WFCO fuse block nor to the control panel.
Thank you again for your attention to my earlier questions @pthomas745!