@TabbyShack, I think if you run the system dry with the pump prior to introducing AF, you have little risk of diluting the AF too much. If the AF comes out with a good stream from the faucets, showers, and toilet, then is should be of sufficient strength.
I personally find the blow method alone less effort the using AF, but I have an adapter to connect a compressor to the city water inlet. Easy peasy for me.
Also if the trailer is heated, leave the washroom door open enough to get warm air inside, this will help keep the black tank from freezing, since it is under the toilet above the floor, not under the trailer. cheere
As @pthomas745 mentioned the blowout method is great for those who are able to use their trailer year round and don’t want to deal with antifreeze. Just make sure you do a thorough job of blowing the system out. A particularly troublesome faucet is the shower on the 400.
Even after blowing the lines out I can sometimes hear gurgling. I ultimately use antifreeze anyway so it doesn’t matter in my situation but what helps is unscrewing the showerhead line and blowing the water out into a towel. The long vertical line is difficult for the pressure to push the water upward. Eliminating the showerhead portion helps.
It's 50 foot pounds to set the bearing. Then, without turning the hub, the nut is carefully backed away to permit the cotter pin to slide into the first available opening in the nut. There are other higher specs for other axles and bearings, but for this one, 50 is the magic number.
Castellated nut or nut retainer, the procedure is identical. You torque to 50 foot pounds and then without disturbing the hub you loosen the nut just enough to allow you to either pass the cotter pin through the first available slot or the first location where the retainer can be located. You should not be totally loosening the nut, just making enough clearance between it and the mating surface to allow it to turn freely. By doing this you are making sure that the races are seated and that there is not so much slop in the hub that the wheel will run cockeyed as yours has done. The suggestion to permit a 12 inch wrench or pliers with full hand force is a joke. Apparently, Dexter feels a need to accommodate woodshed mechanics. There is no way, zero, that anyone, not Mitchell Hooper, can accurately tighten to 50 foot pounds with pliers or a 12 inch wrench. Ridiculous. Your tire should be plenty convincing.
@vshumate No reason those areas cannot be used for storage of dense items. The radiators for the alde are behind the lift up storage area and the heat flows up from the gap behind that.
That's a good point, though I suspect it's not much of an issue with a low pressure system like the Alde glycol loop. That does highlight why auto manufacturers use spring clamps in the cooling system that sees higher pressures.
A DC-DC charger can be an excellent consideration, but things to keep in mind before buying a 60 amps charger like @WayneW is using ...
"It’s important to ensure a DC to DC charger does not exceed 50% of the
alternator’s output current (Ah). This will prevent the alternator from
overloading (which could reduce its lifespan and burn it out)."
"In general, most car alternators have an output rating between 40 to 120 amps. Older vehicles or smaller cars typically have alternators with lower output ratings, around 40 to 70 amps."
You'll need dedicated wiring between the alternator/dc-dc charger and
trailer batteries. Your standard 7-pin cable will not handle that amperage over the distance required.
This is an added expense, especially if you have someone else do the work.
The ALP may only put out 7.1 amps, but that's at 120V. A 30 amp smart charger will only draw around 3 amps at 120V while outputting 30 amps at 12V. You could comfortably go up to a 50 amp charger with the ALP or Ryobi generators.