Best Of
Re: Dual Solar Panels
Panel outputs don't need to be consistent across multiple networked Victron MPPT controllers for the controllers to both actively charge the same battery bank. If two or more charge controllers are in a ve.smart network, one of them is elected master and will direct the charge state on the other controllers to avoid conflicts. This is, of course, assuming both isolated sets of panels hit a high enough output voltage to trigger charging.Denny16 said:If the two Victron controllers are networked together, using the Victron phone App, priority will be given to the panels providing the most current. If both sets are close in output, then they can be combined to both charging the battery. It all depends on the battery charge state, and the current output of the PV panels, from what I understand.
Cheers
I've had a tiny trickle of watts coming in from my rooftop panel while external panels were throwing > 150+ watts at the same battery bank, meanwhile the stats from my Smart Shunt make it clear that the input amperage from both controllers is additive (e.g. controller 1 reports 10A output, controller 2 reports 3A output, Smart Shunt reports surplus of roughly 13A). Same behavior happens if I turn on my Victron IP22 while the MPPT controllers are charging via solar, and the MPPT controllers sync to the charging phase (bulk/absorption/storage) that the IP22 is in.
That said, you *do* want roughly similar panel outputs on the circuit north of each MPPT controller lest an underperforming panel become a bottleneck.
Re: From 320 Boondock to 400 Boondock - Maybe
As someone who literally upgraded from a 320 to a 400 two days ago, I’d like to chime in. The east-west sleeping was not an issue for us in the 320 do it’s not an issue in the 400.
We’ve spent two nights in the 400 so far (literally since the day we bought it. It’s a 500 mile journey home). We are absolutely amazed at how much better of an experience it is over our 320! Not even close. It’s absolutely luxurious. It’s far easier for two people to move around in. The full time dinette is a game changer. It’s like having a separate living area.
I’m actually very surprised at how much better it is. It has freakin central A/C and heat with a heat pump!!!! Our 320 used to be “moist” all the time, and that loud window A/C sucked. Not the case w the Cool Cat A/C. It’s quiet and keeps the inside nice and dry. And the Nautilus water management is so convenient.
Zero regrets upgrading to the 400.
Re: From 320 Boondock to 400 Boondock - Maybe
Thanks all who inputted. We have picked up our 2022 400 Boondock and are in planning stages to see the rest of the country we haven’t yet seen.
Re: For those towing with a Honda Ridgeline
The problem with adjustable hitches (as PXL has pointed out in other threads) is that they are noisey. I will be using mine to get it home and then buy/adapt a permanent one and save the adjustable for other trailers. Btw Walmart also has a good selection of hitches. YMMV
Re: Jenson Radio = = Related to Tow Vehicle Dash-Cam ?
My opinion only...
As consumers, I believe we also play a part here. By "constantly" selecting cheap products on platforms such as Amazon, we force prices downward as higher quality products lose market shares. Our consumerism practices are very focused on price rather than quality. "We" are making clear statements to the various industries that we prefer throwing away our cheap goods rather than paying more for better quality.
I also agree that corporate greed, and various policies have had big influence also.
And yes, I consider that I'm part of that very problem at times also.
As consumers, I believe we also play a part here. By "constantly" selecting cheap products on platforms such as Amazon, we force prices downward as higher quality products lose market shares. Our consumerism practices are very focused on price rather than quality. "We" are making clear statements to the various industries that we prefer throwing away our cheap goods rather than paying more for better quality.
I also agree that corporate greed, and various policies have had big influence also.
And yes, I consider that I'm part of that very problem at times also.
Re: Towing with a Honda Ridgeline
We have a 21 Ridgeline towing a 21 320S. Coming up on our 4th summer of camping and in my opinion the Ridgeline has served us very well. We do not tow in mountainous areas so I cannot comment there.
Love 320 is the same width as the Ridgeline so seeing vehicles behind traveling behind has not been a problem and quickly decided that rear camera not necessary. Bed sides are reasonably low and easy to grab things from the bed from the sides. Braking no problem with our Tekonsha Primus IQ brake controller. I'm a cautious driver so handling has never been an issue. Mileage ranges 13-15 litres/100km (15.5-18mpg). With the back seats folded up, we have more than enough storage space for the 2 of us that does not fit in the trailer.
Most of the time when towing, I forget there is a trailer behind us. Only when accelerating do I become aware of the 320.
Which reminds me, time to soon start booking those summer sites....
Love 320 is the same width as the Ridgeline so seeing vehicles behind traveling behind has not been a problem and quickly decided that rear camera not necessary. Bed sides are reasonably low and easy to grab things from the bed from the sides. Braking no problem with our Tekonsha Primus IQ brake controller. I'm a cautious driver so handling has never been an issue. Mileage ranges 13-15 litres/100km (15.5-18mpg). With the back seats folded up, we have more than enough storage space for the 2 of us that does not fit in the trailer.
Most of the time when towing, I forget there is a trailer behind us. Only when accelerating do I become aware of the 320.
Which reminds me, time to soon start booking those summer sites....
Re: Changing out the Alde fluid.
Update to my snail's pace glycol swap. I commented in the last month about ScottG's idea of forcing the glycol out of the trailer by disconnecting the hose at the point of the air bleeder valve. This connector holds the non-return valve. I pulled the plug on the glycol drain under the trailer, let it drain for a minute or so, and then pulled the hose holding the air bleeder/non return valve. Mistake #1: I pulled the hose from the end of the non return valve, and wound up spilling some glycol out of that hose. (I was saved by shop towels). At this point, there wasn't much draining from the glycol drain under the trailer. I attempted using a small air blower (the type you might use to inflate a small camping mattress) but there was not enough pressure to move any glycol. I tried the pump with the plugs recommended in the DIY glycol exchange file, but the plugs were not a good fit inside the hose. So.... I wrapped a clean towel around the end of the hose, and with two or three strong breaths blew the rest of the glycol around the system to the expansion tank, and it simply dropped out of the drain. I got 2.5 gallons of glycol into my bucket under the trailer. When I disconnected hoses from the convectors to inspect them for cleaning, there were only a few dribbles of glycol left in the system.
So: removing the glycol from the system at the point of the non-return valve is a perfectly good method. I'm assuming with a better "stopper" into the Alde hose, using some sort of air pump would be a possible if you don't like the taste of rubber hose. If I was smart enough to have taken the correct hose end off of the non return valve, I would not have spilled any glycol at all. The "stopper" may fit better into the non-return valve that would enable the pump to drive the glycol out.
I am also assuming I can partially refill the system with distilled water/glycol from this point. But, probably not completely. I'm guessing that after the expansion tank starts to fill, the water or glycol will begin to make its way to the air bleeder valve. Unless that can be plugged, it may be better to reconnect things and add water/glycol through the expansion tank.
Except for something to get the hose clamps off the drain plug and that one hose: an owner can get practically all the glycol out of the trailer with no tools if you don't mind using your own lungs. Of course, a pump or some other device with the proper air pressure would be a good thing!
The whole operation took less time than writing this comment did this morning.
Re: Blue led step light for 2021 TAB 400
I was able to add a motion sensor in series with the step switch circuit. One of the first things I did also. I really disliked the constant on with the step out but I do like the step light when needed.SLJ said:First thing I did was disconnect mine. Wrong color and not needed. Don't want anything on all the time.
Re: Blue led step light for 2021 TAB 400
Yoshi_TAB That looks familiar. I should of put the link in my previous post.
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/17065/motion-sensor-step-light#latest
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/17065/motion-sensor-step-light#latest