Not all wire is created equal. Here is an image of the specs for the wire I used for my installation. Comparing solid vs stranded wire really isn't that helpful. Most are going to use a stranded wire for the flexibility that it offers in installation.
I've posted a parts list and the Dexter Axle Service Manual here. The parts list is based on a 2015 "320"--maybe someone can confirm if the 400s use the same wheel.
Correct @Maple_Geek, whilst fuses and circuit breakers are primarily designed to prevent wires from overheating or shorting, and causing a fire, they also protect the equipment (batteries) attached from shorting out also. A fuse/breaker should be sized for the wires being connected. The wires are sized based on the load they draw (voltage and amps) from the power source. You do not need to size the wires based on the max load available from a battery (or other power source, doing this would make wires way larger than necessary.
For solar charging setups, best practices are to put a fuse between solar panels and controller and a second between solar connector and battery. That said, nüCamp in their original solar setups on 2018/2019 TaB. 400s did not have a fuse between solar panel and the Victron controllers, nor did they put a fuse between the SAE port and battery on units that had a SAE port.
Sometime after 2020, when the made solar charging and SAE ports standard on Boondock models, they added the additional fuses. This, I feel was the correct way to go. Adding additional fuse protection does not hurt snd can only help.
Adding a larger battery bank (lithium setups) and larger power inverter, only requires the the cables (wires) between the battery bank and inverter (based on wire run length snd watt/amp load) be properly sized for the max load the inverter can provide, based on 120VAC 15-amp loads. Also, appropriately sized fuses are required between battery and inverter. For example, a 3K watt inverter installed using 2-3 foot wires, would normally use a 2/0 cable, which can handle 200 amps with a short wire run. A typical 3K inverter’s max load is 200 amps. Adding larger wires lie, 4/0, will give some additional protection, but is adding unnecessary weight and makes installing the cables in short runs much more difficult and is not really necessary on our small TaBs. For the nüCamp factory install of the 4 100 amp lithium battery/3K inverter package, nüCamp uses 2/0 cables to connect the inverter/charger to the battery bank.
I hope this clears a few things up. DC wire size is based on voltage/load requirements and wire run length. There are numerous charts available to show the recommended wire size based on max load. cheers
It’s May and camping season has begun! Mr and Mrs 2Cougs and myself are unable to attend this month. Others of course are welcome to meet! The next scheduled breakfast will be September 14. Happy camping everyone!
@VinneyTaB I referenced the Dexter hub/bearing/seal installation instructions and purchased seals from eTrailer. I have not replaced my bearings or races since they are in good shape. Plenty of good procedural videos out there. Here is the one by Dexter.
@Clifco and @Maple_Geek let me know how the clear nail polish works out. After 4 years of use our 2021 400's porch light finally started to have the dreaded black streak.
Small diversion here: I've always thought that inverters in the 1000-1200 watt range to be somewhat useless for their size. 1000 watts is way more power than you need to run the TV or other entertainment equipment, but not enough to run a microwave, hair dryer, some coffee makers, etc. It will run a cock-pot and a few other devices in the 600 watt range. My thoughts are to install either a good true sine wave 400-500 watt inverter or move up to a 2000 watt true sine wave inverter. Now back to the regularly scheduled program.
They were 4 gauge cables about 2 feet long. That's sufficient to handle the current from the charger, which is at the end of a 2-foot long 4 gauge cable. They connect at the existing distribution studs.