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Re: Battleborn ‘add a battery’ diagram.
I contacted NuCamp support about adding a second 100 ah Battleborn battery to my 2023 400. Will the 4 gauge wiring and 150 amp fuse handle this additional battery?
Here is their response:
"Yep, that will be fine as you are just adding a second battery for capacity - the voltage will not change.
So you will want to make sure to wire the new battery in parallel - this will keep the same voltage (12V), but double the amp hour capacity.
You are essentially just adding more battery amp hour capacity, and not changing the flow / voltage that comes from the battery/ies."
Re: Glycol questions
That’s a good point, Scott. The caution from the Alde rep. about the tank overflowing did make me think.
Also, Robermcm wrote earlier that Truma told him, “the ‘double Alde glycol drain flush’ uses a pull method on one side…Pull old fluid out, let the new fluid siphon in.” The mention of pulling the old fluid out makes me wonder if there’s something I’m missing.
The bottom photo below shows the expansion tank located behind the toilet in my 2022 320 CSS. If I understand the system correctly the center line from the tank, which drops straight down under the bathroom floor, is the outflow.
The top photo is under the driver’s side bench just behind the bathroom. The red arrow points to the same outflow line. It comes from from under the bathroom floor, takes a 180 degree turn (above the arrow) and then passes over the drains, which are circled. This line continues along the length of the bench and enters the Alde unit at the back of the cabin. So as far as I can tell there is nothing but maybe 6’ of line between the tank and the drains on the outflow side of things. (The green arrow is pointing to the inflow line coming from the convectors and running under the bathroom floor to the expansion tank.)
I’m assuming that if I can pump the glycol as far as the expansion tank by pushing it from the drain closest to the Alde through the unit and then through the convectors to the tank it should come out of the drain closest to the tank by gravity without an overflow problem - unless I pump too fast or something plugs the tank drain or the outflow line. Does this make sense?
At this point I’m torn between trying this or just following the existing DIY method with the adaptors in the expansion tank. I guess my biggest worry is wasting a couple of gallons of expensive glycol in a failed effort!
Re: Post up some shots of your T@B set-up at the camp site! #3
Gualala, California
Re: Glycol questions
As mentioned elsewhere, this seems a bit clumsy compared to a simple shutoff located between the two drains. I diagrammed my system and concluded the new glycol should be pumped into the innermost drain, while the old glycol comes out of the outermost one. There is only about 1 1/2” of space between the two drains, but I experimented with a pair of needle nose vice grips that seem to squeeze the tubing tight enough to keep the glycols from mixing.Robermcm said:Score! I wrote to Truma Elkhart about the bottom fill glycol replacement process and received the important (and oh so obviously easy) tip on how they do it…..ScottG said:Good morning Rob,
For that double drain, they put a clamp in the top middle in between the two drains. One side is where the new glycol is run in and the other side is where it comes out. It is still a good idea to keep an eye on the reservoir while this process is being done to make sure that there is not a blockage and the reservoir is overflowing.
Hope this helps, have a wonderful day!
Best Regards,
Matalyn Prusinski
Sr. Customer Care Associate
As far as I can tell no one here or on the Airstream forum has tried a DIY glycol replacement using the two drain system. I imagine interest will grow as owners of newer models deal with this. I may give it a try following Scott’s DIY instructions, but using the hand pump attached to the drain and not the adaptors in the expansion tank. Just mulling over whether there might be problems I haven’t thought of.
Re: nuCamp Newsletter
Re: 2023 400 with the 400 ah Lithium mod. Victron Inverter.
I went with 4 Renogy , smart heated 100ah batteries x 4 = 400ah . I already had 2 of them from my previous camper , so instead of buying 3 more battleborns , I bought 2 more Renogys . Also installed a Renogy 3000w inverter / charger . Just waiting for the new Renogy ONE core monitor panel to show up , and have to mount the Renogy inverter remote . Will be installing the Renogy One, and Renogy inverter remote in the panel next to the Jensen audio system .
I uses 4/0 gauge wire , with 300amp ANL fuses . Not sure if I need to upgrade to 400 , but 300 is working fine so far.
I wish I trusted 2/0 gauge wire , because ........holy cow is that 4/0 HARD to work with for short runs. I suspect 2/0 would have been fine , but the factory uses 4/0 , so ........
Oh, the blue wires are CAT6 data cables for the smart battery function, so the batteries can "talk to each other" , then through the bluetooth BT-2 module , it will show me all the data through the Renogy App . Because they are "smart", no external shunt is needed . Its all done through the BMS's .
Will take some pictures of the monitor / inverter remote install when I get that done too .
Re: 2023 400 with the 400 ah Lithium mod. Victron Inverter.
Re: Undersize charging wire, WFCO to batteries, Upgrading to lithium in 2019 T@B 400
Re: Black dripping Porch light gasket?
I ordered it from nuCamp via Princess Craft. It was an exact replacement.
They ask for your model/year info, but also a photo to make sure it's the same part.