Best Of
Re: Post up some shots of your T@B set-up at the camp site! #3
Set up at Taborado 2024 in Palisade, CO!
Re: Need Advise Pulling T@B 400 BD with 24 KIA Telluride.
I've found this $11 purchase to be awesome for chains.....been using them for years.
Re: 2020, 400 bathroom mod
Beautiful work! I like that you thought to add some bit of insulation to the wall while it was all apart.
The plumbing bit in a cramped space led me to just ditch the whole sink assembly in favor of more hanging towel rods.
The plumbing bit in a cramped space led me to just ditch the whole sink assembly in favor of more hanging towel rods.
Re: Shutoff valve for the showerhead on 2021 TAB 400 Boondock
@ScottG Yes, completely off when off.
Re: Floor Buckling in kitchen area
Thanks Sharon. I'll take a better look when I'm back at my trailer in a month
Re: Kink in Alde hose
Well, that is.....something.
The 22mm hoses that Alde uses are the most basic EPDM hoses you can buy. Since there is no "pressure" in the glycol loop, they are unreinforced hoses.
Alde does have a couple of "bend" hoses on their page, but you really have to dig through their web page.
That is a 90...and I think there are a couple of different shapes.
I replaced a couple of 90 degree bends, and added slightly longer hoses in a couple of places. I removed that elbow with the bleed valve in my 2017. Seeing as how I would have to disassemble my trailer to make adjustments, I didn't see any point in leaving it there. The next time I replace the glycol, I may add a newer model of the bleeder in a more reasonable spot.
This is the type of hose I bought for the changes I made. These are "reinforced", and you need either 7/8th or 22 MM sized hose. This stuff was a bit more flexible than the original Alde hose. I know this can probably be found at many sources, so shop around.
I bought 90 degree bends from here. This search was for "45 degree 22mm epdm". There are more like this.
Re: Alde not turning on
To answer your two questions, the red wire that came loose has a half inch long solid silver colored metal tip, same as the black wire. These push into mating openings in the plug and I assume are simply a tight friction fit. When fully inserted they make contact with the circuit board contacts.
I don't know the answer to your last questions. Until now I've had no experience with Alde wiring. What I can attest to is that if this particular cable is not making contact with its circuit board there is no power to the Alde unit, to the WFCO fuse block nor to the control panel.
Thank you again for your attention to my earlier questions @pthomas745!
I don't know the answer to your last questions. Until now I've had no experience with Alde wiring. What I can attest to is that if this particular cable is not making contact with its circuit board there is no power to the Alde unit, to the WFCO fuse block nor to the control panel.
Thank you again for your attention to my earlier questions @pthomas745!
Re: Alde not turning on
Thanks so much @Grumpy_G and @pthomas745. I managed by sheer coincidence to find the source of the dead Alde. It was a disconnected power wire in the black wiring/communication box on top of the unit. I've attached 2 photos of what I found and also 1 showing where I found and checked glass fuses. One is obvious but the other is hidden in the green fuse case I've pointed to. By the way, @pthomas745 is correct that there is a white ground wire leading to the BB battery negative terminal.
T@B 400 Alde corrosion
I'm in the process of fixing the Alde corrosion issue on my 2020 tab 400 BL. Because there doesn't seem to be much information here for the 400. I was asked to post my progress here in hopes it could be useful to other owners.
I noticed a bulge on the hose that houses the check valve in the Alde compartment last week. Knowing what this means, I started slowly disassembling areas that have convectors, starting with the bed. I changed the fluid (yellow with yellow) last spring, 3 years after purchase. 1 year late, because I didn't know you were supposed to do it every 2 years. My mistake. Though, given the degree of corrosion, I doubt it would have mattered.
Mark Turney's hypothesis about hoses under downward pressure being far more susceptible to extreme corrosion, seems to be spot on.
I then moved to the one under the wetbath. I was able to get the left hose off and clean it. Then reinstalled the hose further out on the stub. So there's less surface area (in theory) being exposed to the glycol. I haven't tried the right side yet, but I'm not sure I'll be able to get it off. So I'm saving it for later.
Next was the kitchen. Pop off the plastic covers, back out the screws (Roberts head) and removed the boards. This one is almost pristine.
Now I'm to the dinette. Having to dismantle this area took some effort. I'll probably check the convectors on either side. Then deal with the center.
There's a lot going on behind the center dinette. So I need to really think about how I'm going to go about removing the top. Since it seems to be more than just screws holding it together.
And this is where I'm at now. I'll post more pictures and info on my experience as I get further along.
I noticed a bulge on the hose that houses the check valve in the Alde compartment last week. Knowing what this means, I started slowly disassembling areas that have convectors, starting with the bed. I changed the fluid (yellow with yellow) last spring, 3 years after purchase. 1 year late, because I didn't know you were supposed to do it every 2 years. My mistake. Though, given the degree of corrosion, I doubt it would have mattered.
Mark Turney's hypothesis about hoses under downward pressure being far more susceptible to extreme corrosion, seems to be spot on.
I then moved to the one under the wetbath. I was able to get the left hose off and clean it. Then reinstalled the hose further out on the stub. So there's less surface area (in theory) being exposed to the glycol. I haven't tried the right side yet, but I'm not sure I'll be able to get it off. So I'm saving it for later.
Next was the kitchen. Pop off the plastic covers, back out the screws (Roberts head) and removed the boards. This one is almost pristine.
Now I'm to the dinette. Having to dismantle this area took some effort. I'll probably check the convectors on either side. Then deal with the center.
There's a lot going on behind the center dinette. So I need to really think about how I'm going to go about removing the top. Since it seems to be more than just screws holding it together.
And this is where I'm at now. I'll post more pictures and info on my experience as I get further along.
