@Yoshi_TABhere's a link to the Victron webpage. Unless it goes from best to worst, there's no rating of methods that I can find anywhere on the page. The only comment is on the last method saying that there could be a slight difference in individual battery currents. Strange because most of the wiring diagrams I found use that method.
I wish I had found this post before I installed the rear-view camera on my T@B 400! After removing the cloth-covered panel behind the bed, I found a big bunch of differently-colored wires and this diagram matches what I saw. I ended up splicing into the running light wires to power the camera.
In my 2021 320S I did not replace the WFCO converter. I let it supply DC when on shore power and just switch my two 100AH lithiums off. The lithiums get charged with a Victron smart charger connected to shore power. When I disconnect from shore power I just switch the batteries back on. The Victron charger is cheaper and more reliable for charging lithiums than the installing a newer WFCO auto sensing converter. Don't really have a use for an inverter as only the AC runs off 120V and we spend most of our time here in the Northeast outside anyway and don't use it.
The two things to consider when sizing wire is how much current it will carry and the distance run (both ways). Do you (or plan to) have an inverter? If so, that will impact the size? If you do not have an inverter, you can go with smaller AWG wire. If you do not have an inverter, your TAB max. current capacity is probably only 30 amps and you can size your wire for that current. If you have an inverter, the first thing to do is size your fuse based on the wattage of your inverter, then size your wire based on the fuse size and distance run.
So, while bigger never hurts, it may not be necessary.
I used 2/0 AWG only because I have an inverter in my circuit. If you don't have one, you can get by with much smaller wire. An inverter circuit needs to be protected with a high amp fuse (depending on the size of the inverter...225A/2000W in my case). If you do not have an inverter you do not need the large of wire.
I used 10AWG for all other circuits (than inverter), which for 30 amps is fine.
When I installed an inverter in my '21 Tab 320 I simply added an additional breaker to control the converter. I would leave the breaker off when not using shore power. This would allow me to turn on the inverter when needed. When, and if, I connected to shore power it was as simple as flipping the breaker to allow for charging by shore power. Most of the time I just left it off as I could charge sufficiently with solar power.
Checking for air in the lines, an air lock, is quite simple. Simply turn on the Alde and either turn the heat on or just set the pump to "cont" in the Alde settings. If the glycol in the reservoir chugs vigorously then you do not have an air lock. If it does not move or moves very sluggishly then you have air in the lines.
I have a 400 and not a 320 so I am not familiar with the number and locations of the manual bleeder valves. You will have a few of these in addition to the auto bleeder that is located right at the Alde unit. It's a good idea to locate all the manual bleeders on your trailer just for general knowledge and in case you ever have to bleed the air out. The only time I've had to do it is when I changed out my glycol. But it is easy to do. With the glycol pump running you simply open the valve slightly until the air escapes and fluid comes out.
This error can be caused by the Alde having an air block in the lines so I would do a quick check on that issue. It seems that it can also be caused by something on the 12v side. Here is another discussion that covers the 12v issue and a fix for that.
My dealer noticed the tire wear when I had my bearings serviced in November. We then went on a 7K road trip which added to the wear. I came across this thread after we got back and went through the procedure with Dexter with no problem. Dexter is covering the axle, two tires and 1.5 hours of labor. They shipped the axle to my dealer and I just had it installed two weeks ago. The dealer didn’t have the Boondock tires in stock, so I will be making another trip out for that.
The install is pretty straightforward: 4 bolts hold the axle and the wiring for the brakes needs to be spliced in. Toughest part is holding the (heavy) axle in place to do the work - guess it will depend on your shop’s setup.
Well, Dexter lives up to its reputation for OUTSTANDING customer service. I submitted an online claim this morning, simply providing a photo of each un-evenly worn tire, and at 4:30 the same day received an email saying they'll cover everything, just tell them where to send it...Wow. Now in a perfect world, we wouldn't need to replace the axle, but since we do, it sure is nice to have a company really stand behind their product.
From Dexter: After review of the information and pictures provided, Dexter authorizes to replace the axle, a total of 1.5hr labor and 2 tires.
Please reply to this email with the complete shipping address (name, address and phone number) for the replacement parts. Please note the receiving facility will need access to a forklift as well as someone available during normal business hours.
As Dexter does not ship tires please provide an invoice for the tires once the replacement is complete. Dexter will reimburse up to $500 per tire for the replacement cost.