Best Of
Re: solar vs generator
If this helps, here is why I elected not to buy a generator:bobncathy said:Thank you PXLated and Scott! I have read a lot but much of the terms I am not familiar with yet, and I haven't found a comment that states a preference of one over the other and for what reasons they prefer that. Trying to learn, but, wow! I'm a bit confused....
1) We treat the T@B more like a nice tent (ok, a really nice tent...) We've yet to use the A/C, and don't have a need to run any other dedicated 120V appliances.
2) To be effective as a battery charger, I would likely need to run the generator for several hours.
3) I didn't want to carry a generator, or the gas to run it.
4) I'm selectively frugal and a bit lazy. Generators are more expensive--and require more maintenance--than solar panels.
I also gathered input from across the spectrum. On one extreme, jkjenn's comprehensive power consumption spreadsheets gave me a bead on how much juice I needed. On the other end, PXL's real world experience full-timing with a 120 watt panel and a basic battery convinced me it didn't have to be complicated.
As I implied before, the first thing you need to do is figure out your particular needs. If you are new to camping, or even just new to the T@B, this can be a bit difficult until you settle into your own routine. Good luck!
Re: Water leak & mold inside at the back of my TAB Q MAX
I have an update. Evidently the screws on the top of the trailer that are only visible from a top view, leaked. And water slid down the back to the above described issue. The screws were placed into the red trim & body. Those strips were meant to move and they didn’t because of the screws. So the red strips, two backs & a front were damaged as well by the screws. Finally the calking was not present anymore. As you know we purchased out trailer new in 2017. After talking to NewCamp several times via email (as did the RV repair facility), their decision was that it was not a warranty problem. It was a maintenance issue. Thanks to all for your help and knowledge.
Re: Anything missing from this wiring diagram for a TaB 320S lithium, inverter & solar port upgrade?
Hi Toshi_Tab,
1. The breakers are being used as simple disconnects rather than breakers. This is to comply with NEC 2020 Article 690.13, which may not be needed for RV's but seems like a good and simple to implement idea, just in case. It's also nice to quickly disconnect solar sources from the system to measure the draw on other RV components, such as furnace or fridge. The code states "Means shall be provided to disconnect the PV system from all wiring systems including power systems, energy storage systems, and utilization equipment and its associated premises wiring." Links:
https://up.codes/s/photovoltaic-system-disconnecting-means
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HOXnWXvLXko
2. The charger is dedicated to circuit no. 2 on the Lynx distributor with a dedicated 40 amp midi fuse. The charger is capable of 30 amps, but I manually adjusted the settings to 20 amps max, as it's plugged into a 20A 110 outlet in the RV (when on shore power), and it also runs much cooler at 20 amps versus 30. If I'm at home, I can run a 10 gauge extension cord from our home's 30 amp washer/dryer room outlet to the RV and run the charger at 30 amps, but there's little need as 20 amps charges plenty fast.
3. The cooling fan is for the solar controllers and battery compartment. It's easy to install, cheap and programable per the video below. The solar chargers are supposed to run at temps below 100F for best efficiency. The fan is set to turn on at 90F. Since we don't know how hot it may get inside the battery compartment when running the Alde heater on a cold night all night long, a fan seemed like a good idea. But at night there's no solar charging, so that issue is gone. And during the day when we may use the inverter and cause battery heating, the Alde should be off. And even if it gets over 100F, the BMS in the battery has internal low and high temperature protection. So far, running the heater at 80F for a few hours has not caused a heat problem in the battery compartment. We'll monitor the temperature closely on our first few trips and see if the fan ever turns on, and if so, how well it works.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=srxYjc9nJao
FYI, the charger and inverter are in a separate compartment away from the solar controllers and battery. The charger only puts out moderate heat at 20 amps, as mentioned above. And the inverter, even running a hair dryer at 50 amps (low heat setting) for 5 minutes, surprisingly puts out negligible heat.
1. The breakers are being used as simple disconnects rather than breakers. This is to comply with NEC 2020 Article 690.13, which may not be needed for RV's but seems like a good and simple to implement idea, just in case. It's also nice to quickly disconnect solar sources from the system to measure the draw on other RV components, such as furnace or fridge. The code states "Means shall be provided to disconnect the PV system from all wiring systems including power systems, energy storage systems, and utilization equipment and its associated premises wiring." Links:
https://up.codes/s/photovoltaic-system-disconnecting-means
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HOXnWXvLXko2. The charger is dedicated to circuit no. 2 on the Lynx distributor with a dedicated 40 amp midi fuse. The charger is capable of 30 amps, but I manually adjusted the settings to 20 amps max, as it's plugged into a 20A 110 outlet in the RV (when on shore power), and it also runs much cooler at 20 amps versus 30. If I'm at home, I can run a 10 gauge extension cord from our home's 30 amp washer/dryer room outlet to the RV and run the charger at 30 amps, but there's little need as 20 amps charges plenty fast.
3. The cooling fan is for the solar controllers and battery compartment. It's easy to install, cheap and programable per the video below. The solar chargers are supposed to run at temps below 100F for best efficiency. The fan is set to turn on at 90F. Since we don't know how hot it may get inside the battery compartment when running the Alde heater on a cold night all night long, a fan seemed like a good idea. But at night there's no solar charging, so that issue is gone. And during the day when we may use the inverter and cause battery heating, the Alde should be off. And even if it gets over 100F, the BMS in the battery has internal low and high temperature protection. So far, running the heater at 80F for a few hours has not caused a heat problem in the battery compartment. We'll monitor the temperature closely on our first few trips and see if the fan ever turns on, and if so, how well it works.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=srxYjc9nJaoFYI, the charger and inverter are in a separate compartment away from the solar controllers and battery. The charger only puts out moderate heat at 20 amps, as mentioned above. And the inverter, even running a hair dryer at 50 amps (low heat setting) for 5 minutes, surprisingly puts out negligible heat.
Re: Propane regulator?
Wasn't aware that there was an adjustment - Good to know.
Re: Anything missing from this wiring diagram for a TaB 320S lithium, inverter & solar port upgrade?
Yoshi_TAB said:
A couple of questions in an effort to learn more. I have a similar setup with slightly different wiring and a few other differences.
1. Why do folks put breakers in between the solar controller and the panel or solar plug. Why don't OEM suppliers (i.e NuCamp) also do it?
This is how Bay Marine Supply explained it to me:
"A fuse or breaker is required on the +ve circuit between the controller and the battery, yes. While another fuse or breaker between the panel and controller is not required by code until you get 3 or more parallel strings running into the controller, we do suggest that some kind of disconnect be installed there in any case just so that you can isolate the controller should you need to, without waiting until dark or climbing around covering your panels."
Since I'm using a portable panel that I plug into an SAE port between the controller and the panel, I don't have a breaker/fuse there as I can just unplug the panel the cut the power supply from the panel to the controller. It sounds like it would be a good idea to have a breaker/fuse if you have panels permanently mounted to the roof of your T@B.
Re: Lithium Battery charging profile. And victron ‘trend’ charts.
Since the charger shuts off at night, when it powers up on the morning, it automatically begins in bulk or absorb mode and then transitions to float after a set time. If it didn't turn off at night it would stay on float. The charger "forgets" what happens or doesn't know when off. So it defaults to the topping off mode 1st.
Re: Tab 400 screen door string repair
Testing a prototype on my daughter's 400 screen door.
I designed these 3D printed parts to replace that pesky rivet pivot point. It also allows the frame to be screwed back together. It can be used on both sides. The hole is for the cord to go through. It has a radius on the pivot point. It's just hard to see with the black plastic. The bottom part that the screw goes through has a "shaft" on it that is the size of the hole in the frame and corner piece and goes through both so it locks the location in place. The screw will (when I get longer ones today) go all the way through the frame bar. Testing will tell how it does. Waiting on the crimping pliers to complete the job. Should be here today.
I designed these 3D printed parts to replace that pesky rivet pivot point. It also allows the frame to be screwed back together. It can be used on both sides. The hole is for the cord to go through. It has a radius on the pivot point. It's just hard to see with the black plastic. The bottom part that the screw goes through has a "shaft" on it that is the size of the hole in the frame and corner piece and goes through both so it locks the location in place. The screw will (when I get longer ones today) go all the way through the frame bar. Testing will tell how it does. Waiting on the crimping pliers to complete the job. Should be here today.
Re: Glycol questions
Both drain ports are circled. Each to one side of that metal hold down clip. No apparent one way valve between them. Might be a one way to the right of both of them. That’s upstream.
Re: WFCO 8955-AD jumper
I’ve yet to install this jumper, but I did put a meter on it to determine what was hiding in the shrink tubing. It’s just a 1k resistor. Pins 5 and 6 jumped with it.
Waiting to get a little more experience with this new to me tab 400, wfcom8955-AD converter and the 100ah lithium battery. So far the solar keeps it topped up just fine, but I haven’t drawn it down deeply, and in that moment, I’ll want a faster recharge from the converter. Will report anything of interest when I do jump it.