100% waterless coolant for my Alde no water no corrosion non toxic life time never needs changing

BrianZ

Thanks, @Dalehelman, as I thought.
I would say normally no liquid would move into the new tank, but if the tank were to overfill for some reason, it would go out the overflow tube, as it was intended, to prevent spills.  Doesn't hurt to try to think about "what if" when doing something unconventional like this.  Still clever!

I visited the Evans web site, where they say the glycol has a 2-yr warranty & should be checked annually for water content with a refractometer, with up to 3% being acceptable.  That made me wonder how could you check it without potentially letting in humid air, but I guess it wouldn't be much for a quick check, and you can have up to 5% before requiring replacement (or about 15 oz of water in the system). 

I read the accumulator tank can hold something like 25oz, by the way, not that you'll ever need that. 😉

Another tidbit I read about their glycol is that it can be checked with a voltmeter, which should be no more than .01V, but there were no details & whether that was only for cars.

Denny16

Also, the accumulator tank does have a rubber diaphragm towards the top, which is normally inflated with air to create water pressure in a water system.  With the Schroeder valve removed no air pressure is built up in the top of,the tank, but air or fluid being forced into the lower part will cause the diaphragm to expand, and create some pressure inside the tank, just like the expanding ballon would.  So some pressure is being created in this closed loop setup.  Not sure if it is enough pressure to cause any issues with the Alde circulation system operation.
cheers

Dalehelman

I haven’t ask Evans this question yet. If over a period of time the coolant tested over 3% water. Could you remove it place it in a container. Heat it till the water boils off. Retest if it’s water free re install. The boiling point of their coolant is 375*.

BrianZ

That's a great question, Dale.  Water vaporizes at 212°F, so you wouldn't have to heat it much above that I would think.

Basil48192

@Dalehelman.  If I can go back to the vacuum system:  Do you think there is any chance of damaging the pump by spinning it too fast while vacuuming?  If you put the vacuum hose in the 'supply' port, could you damage the pump by spinning it backwards?  Just getting my ducks in a row for spring.  Thank you in advance!

Dalehelman

@Basil48192
It was never an issue and I ran the vacuum for many hours. Probably 10 plus. The vacuum is high volume low pressure as well. 

Basil48192

@Dalehelman
Thank you!

RCB

Great thread ! I haven’t much to add, but to comment.
Residential hot water heating systems with fin coil (Alde type) or cast iron radiators are unpressurized but are a sealed system. They develop some pressure from the air pressure applied into the bladder of  the expansion tank. The air pressure is the same as the water pressure of the supply line to the boiler. To continue my ramblings…a washing machine water hammer arrestor might also work. They are smaller and cheaper.

A comment from Alde on the addition of a small expansion tank/device would be of interest. 

Mickerly

I'm going to agree with Denny16 on this one. An automotive system runs at a nearly constant 220F. The water part of the Alde is at 195F. Since you can touch the radiator in the trailer, the "transfer fluid" can't be much hotter than the water. Most modern engines and radiators are aluminum as our radiators are. If it will work in a car, it will work here.

For me, I had 5gal of of Century fluid on the shelf. I changed TF1for TF1. I removed about half the hose connections. No indications of corrosion. Maybe new fluid next time.

Mickerly

Sorry I didn't read all the way to the end.

DanWeitzel

Just completed my Alde repairs and used the shop vac method of fluid removal.  Worked great and seemed to completely empty the system.  I removed the convectors and all other fittings to repair corrosion issues and didn't have any fluid left in the system.  Got out 2 gallons & replaced 2 gallons, ran Alde and overflow tank level remained constant.

GregChris

GM and Ford have had lifetime coolants for years. I can't believe the Alde system is more extreme than an internal combustion engine. Also all moderm auto radiators and most engine block/heads are aluminum. $300 every 2 years is way to expensive for routine maitenance. I'm leaning toward getting a small space heater and just not using it until someone comes with something more permanent. If you only use the water heater part of the Alde is the glycol system used? I really don't know.

ScottG

GregChris said:

...

If you only use the water heater part of the Alde is the glycol system used? I really don't know.

Yes, the glycol is essential for all Alde heating functions. Glycol heated inside the boiler (either by propane or electric elements) is what heats both the cabin and the domestic hot water.

gulfarea

I am getting a little discouraged with the Alde system and all its maintenance myself! I carry a small disk 120 volt heater for instant heat. Art