@PXLated have you tried cleaning off the part of the thermocouple that sits in the flame? The manual indicates that's the first thing to do if you suspect the thermocouple. The second is to make sure its connection isn't loose.
John and Henrietta, Late 2016 T@B S Max in Western New York
Photomom - See pic #2. The flame end goes in that hole into that box. Can't pull it out, must be clips inside holding it so one - it would seem - needs to get inside that box way back there in the corner. Can't see a way without pulling the fridge or cutting a hole in the wall of the cabinet.
I have never seen a propane frig that did not have relatively easy access to burner chamber. They usually back up to an outside wall where there is an access cover for service and maintenance. This really sucks.
Since it looks like one needs to pull the fridge, looked up Norcold service centers - AaaaaaHaaaa, one 50 miles away. Oooops - Nope, haven't been a service center for five years. Called the next closest, 160 miles, nope, they aren't either. Seems the service center locator is totally out of date. The first place I called, gave me the name of another guy that services RV fridges (50 miles away), talked to him and he said it sounds more like the ignitor than the thermocouple. The ignitor and the thermocouple are in that same little box way in the back so he'll probably need to pull it. Made an appointment for Monday morning. Will be interesting to see which it is.
PXL, Please keep us up-dated on what you [or the service center] find to be the problem. Just a note, I looked at the photo of the Thermocoupler posted on page 1 of this thread, the first one listed by Tabberjohn, and if you zoom in, I'm wondering if that silver round "clip" that you can see in the photo is what is restricting yours from being able to be removed. Looks like it slides on to that end prior to inserting it into the hole. Not sure how you could get the clip to release from the outside, as I looked at your second photo of where the end goes in as well. Appears really restricted for space in there.
2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf Spokane, Wa. Eric aka: Lone Wolf
Ya, the green light stays on when button's pressed so you'd think it was lit so ignited. Just won't stay lit. So, we'll see - Either way, ya gotta get to that ignition box. Decided that this could be a multiple trips to the hardware store type deal if I pulled the fridge - Ok if in your driveway and a store close. Not good at all when each round trip is 40+ miles. Time for the peoples that do this and already have the parts :-)
Current campground has but two elec sites - One opened up so I snagged it otherwise it'd been lots of gen time.
PXL, Well at least your food in the fridge won't go bad, so that's a plus to the scenario! Glad you were able to secure a spot with electricity. Hope your venture turns out well for you although right now it sounds pretty darn frustrating to say the least. Wishing 'ya the best! Eric& Liz.
2016 T@B MAX S-aka: WolfT@B TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf Spokane, Wa. Eric aka: Lone Wolf
Thanks Verna - Sounds like Jenn's recommendation for the factory to put an access panel in the side of the cabinet would be the way to go. Gonna show the service guy that thread and if wants to cut an access hole, fine by me.
PXLated, mine has the access hole between the cabinet and the frig and without it, I sure wouldn't been able to repair my recall on the hoses. If you want a photo of my access hole, I can resize it and post it for you.
Verna, Columbus, IN 2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B” Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
The owner's manual for the 3163x is minimal when it comes to servicing the unit ("contact a Norcold service technician."). There is a schematic that shows the thermocouple as a simple rod type without a holder clip. However, I found more info in this model 322/323 guide: http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ncold323.pdf On page 11 it shows a thermocouple bracket with a hex nut on the outside and clip inside. If that's the same as your #2 pic then you do need access to the bracket to replace the thermocouple. Try removing that hex nut from the outside and see if the holder clip will pull through.
2015 T@B Max S (White/Silver) -> 2014 Ford Escape 2.0L (turbo, AWD, factory tow)
PXLated, mine has the access hole between the cabinet and the frig and without it, I sure wouldn't been able to repair my recall on the hoses. If you want a photo of my access hole, I can resize it and post it for you.
I believe that access panel is in the top cabinet. Where he needs access is in the very back of the bottom cabinet. I am considering cutting my own, but I am not sure if even that will work. I think you have to get to the very back for proper access.
Verna - That's in the top cabinet isn't it? The box one needs to get at would require one clear in the back lower side of the lower cabinet.
That would be hard to get to! The hoses come past that area and that would be very hard to cut out with the fridge in place! Best to cut it while the fridge is out.
Verna, Columbus, IN 2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B” Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
TabberJohn - Only hex nut is on the burner (propane in) - The thermocouple is just a hole with a gromet. But even if it did have a nut, you can barely get a hand back there - no way with a tool. I believe that little round gromet with the glass window you see is what Ratkitty was struggling with.
Looks like they changed the bracket design on the 3163X. Too bad they didn't make it easy to change out the thermocouple. It is a simple procedure on a gas furnace or water heater in a home. Good luck with your service appointment.
2015 T@B Max S (White/Silver) -> 2014 Ford Escape 2.0L (turbo, AWD, factory tow)
ya, have watched vids for both home & camper - would be a piece of cake if there was easy access to that box like on homes or side mounted fridges with outside access doors. They really need to make this easier.
Well, I finally looked in the lower cabinet to see if a hole is feasable - ain't lookin good, the plumbing fir the fresh water tank runs against that wall :-( Note: I discovered that the overflow line going back up to the filler port was ziptied too tight - about 2/3rds restricted.
I do not think side access will work. I think you need to get to the back. Most RV frigs are pretty easy to remove if you just take your time. I have replaced complete cooling units on previous RVs with great success. After all they are installed after the trailer is pretty much completely built.
Norcold frigs before 2009 had a 3 year warranty parts and labor. I see that now it is only a 1 year. I guess they are not real confident about their product.
If you had a big removable panel predone in the bottom cabinet like in the top, one could do this from in there but trying to cut the panel out with the plumbing there would make it difficult.
If I were going to cut a hole in that panel I would use a high speed oscillating saw. You can make plunge cuts into a corner and can mark the depth to the exact thickness of the wood being cut. They are easy to use and control and work very well in tight and restrictive spaces. Search multifunction oscillating tool. I bought mine at Harbor Freight.
Back from camping. PXL, sorry you are having thermocouple problems. That little window with the gasket is what rolled away and I had to put back. I found out my thermocouple has a bend in the burner box. The thermocouple is only held in by a gasket. Since my hands were small, I could pull a little on the "copper" wire and pull the thermocouple closer to the burner assembly. I think I inadvertently knocked it when I was doing the hose fix. It seems touchy. Baring that, it's remove the frig to get to the burner/thermocouple assembly. I've never seen such an unserviceable frig in my life!
2017 820R Retro Toy Hauler from 2015 Tabitha T@B from 2009 Reverse LG Teardrop (but a T@Bluver at heart)
Comments
Removing the 3 Norcold Way Fridge
Is is this the post you're looking for?
T@Bit@t 2015 S Max Outback, ‘18 V6 4Runner
T@Bit@t 2015 S Max Outback, ‘18 V6 4Runner
The first place I called, gave me the name of another guy that services RV fridges (50 miles away), talked to him and he said it sounds more like the ignitor than the thermocouple. The ignitor and the thermocouple are in that same little box way in the back so he'll probably need to pull it.
Made an appointment for Monday morning. Will be interesting to see which it is.
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
Decided that this could be a multiple trips to the hardware store type deal if I pulled the fridge - Ok if in your driveway and a store close. Not good at all when each round trip is 40+ miles. Time for the peoples that do this and already have the parts :-)
Current campground has but two elec sites - One opened up so I snagged it otherwise it'd been lots of gen time.
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
The owner's manual for the 3163x is minimal when it comes to servicing the unit ("contact a Norcold service technician.").
There is a schematic that shows the thermocouple as a simple rod type without a holder clip.
However, I found more info in this model 322/323 guide: http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ncold323.pdf
On page 11 it shows a thermocouple bracket with a hex nut on the outside and clip inside.
If that's the same as your #2 pic then you do need access to the bracket to replace the thermocouple.
Try removing that hex nut from the outside and see if the holder clip will pull through.
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
I believe that little round gromet with the glass window you see is what Ratkitty was struggling with.
Too bad they didn't make it easy to change out the thermocouple.
It is a simple procedure on a gas furnace or water heater in a home.
Good luck with your service appointment.
Note: I discovered that the overflow line going back up to the filler port was ziptied too tight - about 2/3rds restricted.