Ratkity - So, did you actually remove the fridge or do everything by reaching in? You're ight on the serviceability thing. Would be a lot easier if they precut an access panel in that lower cabinet - almost impossible to do after that plumbing is installed - and even then it woud be tight.
Yep :-) It'd be easier but still dificult with the plumbing right on the other side - Would probably work best with a rotary cutter with the blade/bit set just deep eough to cut thru.
As I have mentioned in another thread, it is common for RVs to put an access door to be able to access the burner for maintenance. It might not be feasible to do that with T@bs and I am sure some would be opposed to the look of an access door on the front.
PXLated: I am working on a similar but different propane issue on our fridge. I uploaded removal instructions and the servic manual to the files section of the T@DA / T@B facebook page. Are you on there?
PXL, did everything by reach. That's why I was hoping that you could just move the copper looking wire (it's the thermocouple) a bit. That little round window gasket thing was what popped out and I had to put back. What a pita!!
The cooling side of the frig is on the left side, along with the unaccessible burner. I downloaded the instructions to service the burner. To pull it out in the tiny place it's in requires detaching all propane lines, making sure the AC plug line is long enough (I couldn't tell how they had it routed, but I moved it away from the fins), making sure the 12V lines aren't getting pulled (including the aux fans many of us added) and finally, I don't know how much of the dual venting hose is in the rear to pull forward. Ugh. Pay someone. That's why I was upset about the gasket window thingie, but I have small hands. If Norcold made the same frig with the cooling side on the right, then it would probably solve the need for aux fans and solve access to the burner assembly by having an outside access panel.
Best of luck to get it working. BTW, used the ARB this weekend (I have the slide too in the back of the pickup). It worked flawlessly. While I didn't win the chili contest, it was very nice to have all that extra room for ingredients!
2017 820R Retro Toy Hauler from 2015 Tabitha T@B from 2009 Reverse LG Teardrop (but a T@Bluver at heart)
Removal of Norcold from Westy. Process is similar to T@B or T@DA, includes pix of how to detach propane, 12V, exhaust hoses, slide out and burner orifice cleaning.
Personally I have purchased the spark igniter (mine isn't sparking due to grounding out somehow), thermocouple, and burner orifice. Pulling it out is a major PITA and if I'm going there, I will replace all these parts. Total cost about $100 in parts.
Trip to the dealer $120 for a first look. I can't see this being under $250+ parts anywhere else
There's probably a better place for these docs but I don't know where they should go in this forum. On my mobile I can't do anything else (like sorting) at the moment. Is there a files section ?
Page 27 of the 3163 service manual PDF shows a thermocouple held into the burner box with a grommet. Based upon that diagram it sure seems like you should be able to yank the TC out and insert a new one unless the grommet must be detached from inside the box first.
2015 T@B Max S (White/Silver) -> 2014 Ford Escape 2.0L (turbo, AWD, factory tow)
Mike - can you put "Fuses for Newbies" in the resource section.
I announced your "Newbie Fuse" discussion in the Electric/Solar discussion area and will leave it posted at the top of that area. Also added in a new discussion thread in our resource area where people can post helpful information for new trailer owners.... Hopefully we can expand upon it andcreate a wealth of info for others.
Good tip Frank and thanks for all the time you spent in creating/posting up the "Fuses for Newbies" thread as I know you took considerable time amassing/compiling/photographing that info... Well done!
Mike - Elmira, Mi / 2019 T@B 400 / 2021 Chevy Silverado LTZ
I would suggest the word "Manuals (PDF) "is added in that area title instead of just " Videos and Resources" (and whatever else it's called) so it becomes a goto place if someone has issues and is looking for a user manual or service manual.
I am going to consider installing an 8" water proof inspection access port. The type used on boat decks. Since it will be in the battery storage area it will basically be unseen. There really needs to be a way to inspect and adjust the burner flame if nessary or clean the orifice
I am going to consider installing an 8" water proof inspection access port. The type used on boat decks. Since it will be in the battery storage area it will basically be unseen. There really needs to be a way to inspect and adjust the burner flame if nessary or clean the orifice
I think the battery and propane tank placement will prevent any useful inspection and maintenance and potentially render the access panel useless. Not to mention you are dealing with a curved surface which is rather difficult to seal. Pulling the fridge is what I have to do for our T@DA and I betcha after I have pulled it the first time, the second time pulling out the fridge will be a piece of cake. I can easily add a panel on the T@DA (the orifice is on the right side) but I won't. I don't mind pulling the fridge out every year and cleaning the burner... we will see how well this theory pans out in practice.
Fuzzy, your cooling side is against an outer wall. The T@B's cooling side where the burner is located is dead center of the counter top between the stove and sink. I can't even put my tiny hands down and touch the burner assembly because there is so much in the way. My vent hoses to the front are way bigger, btw and there's insulation around one.
2017 820R Retro Toy Hauler from 2015 Tabitha T@B from 2009 Reverse LG Teardrop (but a T@Bluver at heart)
I am going to consider installing an 8" water proof inspection access port. The type used on boat decks. Since it will be in the battery storage area it will basically be unseen. There really needs to be a way to inspect and adjust the burner flame if nessary or clean the orifice
I was thinking the same thing since I took off the plastic propane tank and replaced it with a diamond plate bin (not the Outback one - extra 3" width, height and length made a big difference). I opened the back of the bin just like the propane one for venting. @TabberJohn, unless you hire an 8 yr old, getting that grommet back in will be a pita. That little round grommet with the window took me hours. I had to remove the bottom grill and the left hand bracket on the bottom.
I also think the thermocouple has a right angle bend in it as well. the burner assembly goes straight in and so does the thermocouple. The thermocouple has to bend and be at a specific distance (per manual) from the burner to ignite and remain ignited. You can probably try to reposition it carefully by moving it a bit, but I wouldn't pull on it.
2017 820R Retro Toy Hauler from 2015 Tabitha T@B from 2009 Reverse LG Teardrop (but a T@Bluver at heart)
Fuzzy, your cooling side is against an outer wall. The T@B's cooling side where the burner is located is dead center of the counter top between the stove and sink. I can't even put my tiny hands down and touch the burner assembly because there is so much in the way. My vent hoses to the front are way bigger, btw and there's insulation around one.
I know exactly where the fridge sits in a T@B, as we also own a 2010 DM T@B with bathroom + a 3way Norcold. I still wouldn't do it (add access panel) to the T@B - it will be 100% useless.
Comments
You're ight on the serviceability thing. Would be a lot easier if they precut an access panel in that lower cabinet - almost impossible to do after that plumbing is installed - and even then it woud be tight.
And most easily done if PV started including a lower access panel on new T@Bs.
clearer?
It'd be easier but still dificult with the plumbing right on the other side - Would probably work best with a rotary cutter with the blade/bit set just deep eough to cut thru.
@PXLatedI wouldn't blame you for having a service center take a look. I will let a service center or dealer do it when I take it in for the hose recall. Here is the thread: http://tab-rv.vanillaforums.com/discussion/3727/removing-the-3-norcold-way-fridge#latest
2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014
2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014
The cooling side of the frig is on the left side, along with the unaccessible burner. I downloaded the instructions to service the burner. To pull it out in the tiny place it's in requires detaching all propane lines, making sure the AC plug line is long enough (I couldn't tell how they had it routed, but I moved it away from the fins), making sure the 12V lines aren't getting pulled (including the aux fans many of us added) and finally, I don't know how much of the dual venting hose is in the rear to pull forward. Ugh. Pay someone. That's why I was upset about the gasket window thingie, but I have small hands. If Norcold made the same frig with the cooling side on the right, then it would probably solve the need for aux fans and solve access to the burner assembly by having an outside access panel.
Best of luck to get it working. BTW, used the ARB this weekend (I have the slide too in the back of the pickup). It worked flawlessly. While I didn't win the chili contest, it was very nice to have all that extra room for ingredients!
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
Personally I have purchased the spark igniter (mine isn't sparking due to grounding out somehow), thermocouple, and burner orifice. Pulling it out is a major PITA and if I'm going there, I will replace all these parts. Total cost about $100 in parts.
Trip to the dealer $120 for a first look. I can't see this being under $250+ parts anywhere else
Is there a files section ?
Anything of this nature should go in the forum Video & resource discussion area.
Consider it done and thank you for sharing!
If Chrome doesn't open the file, it would/should download it, so you can view it with 'Preview'.
2014 S Maxx
2011 Tacoma 4cyl ... edit: 2022 Tacoma 6cyl - oh yeah!
A_Little_T@b'll_Do_Ya
Page 27 of the 3163 service manual PDF shows a thermocouple held into the burner box with a grommet.
Based upon that diagram it sure seems like you should be able to yank the TC out and insert a new one unless the grommet must be detached from inside the box first.
2024 Ford F150 Supercrew short bed.
Good tip Frank and thanks for all the time you spent in creating/posting up the "Fuses for Newbies" thread as I know you took considerable time amassing/compiling/photographing that info... Well done!
I also think the thermocouple has a right angle bend in it as well. the burner assembly goes straight in and so does the thermocouple. The thermocouple has to bend and be at a specific distance (per manual) from the burner to ignite and remain ignited. You can probably try to reposition it carefully by moving it a bit, but I wouldn't pull on it.